Sarah Duran of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare

How have your training and experience as an esthetician informed and influenced your approach to formulation and your goals for Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?

Sarah Duran (SD): I was fortunate to have great teachers when I was an Esthetician student. As part of our program, we were required to take chemistry and our professor would bring in her special cart filled with essential oils and simple ingredients to formulate things like hyaluronic acid gel and goat milk powder and clays to make masks. That is where I initially got the bug and my first taste at formulating. After my first couple of years of hands-on experience working with clients and learning about various skin types and conditions, I realized I wanted to continue to learn formulation so I could customize each treatment with ingredients I knew would be more beneficial and less irritating or sensitizing then the vast majority of what I was seeing being offered in the spa or to Estheticians. I then continued my education in cosmetic chemistry at UCLA Extension. My foundation to properly do a skin analysis and understand skin biochemistry came from studying for my license and my continued education at UCLA with Rebecca Gadberry as well as graduating from Formula Botanica. That foundation is what my brand has been built on. I can’t imagine formulating without the knowledge of what ingredients work best with what skin type, tone or condition. Every ingredient I source that makes its way into a formula is first driven by purpose.

How would you describe the beauty and skincare philosophies behind Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?

SD:  My beauty and skincare philosophies behind my brand are simple, to restore the skin to a state of homeostasis and create a skincare ritual to bring you back to self-connection or as my tagline states to restore to calm. If we can inspire consumers to value taking time out of their busy schedules to treat themselves to ten minutes of “Mei” time, alone, in front of their vanity mirror, gently massaging in their cleanser, breathing in the calming aroma of lavender, followed by applying their vanilla infused facial oil and honoring their skin and all its been through, every smile line, knowing that you’re providing nourishment, energy and strength to each cell, then we’ve accomplished our goal.

Right now, Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare offers two dynamic products, Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum. Why was it important to you to launch with a tightly curated line of hero products? Do you anticipate expanding the line with any additions in the future?

SD:  I wanted to create formulas that have been born out of research and awareness of common skin concerns and how to address them. My products have been purposefully created to synergistically work together to reduce inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier.

I based my launch on two products that were my clients’ favorites on my Etsy shop. Yes, I first established my brand on Etsy for about a year before launching my official website in May of 2021. This gave me an opportunity to create customized products for clients and a way to charge and ship them. I decided to launch with two anhydrous products that not only were effective and repeat sellers, but because they were anhydrous it was easier to scale up if needed and keep costs down for outsourcing testing in a lab.

I plan on launching a few products in the next two years. I’m basing them on what is frequently used when giving facials so it will appeal to not only consumers but Estheticians as well. I’m currently working on an acne powdered mask, an enzyme exfoliator, and a brightening serum for hyperpigmentation. Both water based products will be thoroughly tested for efficacy, stability and preservation in a lab.

What are the biggest mistakes you see people making in their skincare choices and routines, and how do Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum help clients avoid these potential pitfalls?

SD:  When I see clients for the first time and notice they have a compromised skin barrier; redness, dry, flaky, sensitive skin – I start to ask questions about what they use, how often, etc. I’m surprised by the trends people follow that can have adverse effects on their skin. For example, using the wrong products for the wrong skin type, or over exfoliating by using harsh exfoliants that aren’t meant for use as a daily cleanser. If for instance, you wear lots of makeup you may need to double cleanse, but if you don’t, or are just waking up in the morning, a gentle oil cleanser is enough to clean your skin without stripping it. Our Everlasting facial oil restores the natural moisture barrier and contains Bakuchiol which was shown in a study to be effective in improving acne by reducing excess oil and has antibacterial properties; it also stimulates collagen synthesis and can be worn in the day with no photosensitivity. Finding products that are effective yet do not sensitize the skin is important for homeostasis. We offer products that multitask and keep the skin smooth, supple and harmonized.

What is your process for creating a new product? 

SD:  My process when I’m creating a new product always starts with how I want to address the issue i.e. breakouts, dry skin, hyperpigmentation. Once I do that, then I decide what type of product I want to create such as a toner, mask, serum, cleanser, etc. Once those two things are decided on then begins the research and restless nights thinking about ingredients. I’ve created a folder that has data on ingredients I’ve obtained samples of from the manufacturers or other ingredients I’d like to use. Each section is categorized by common concerns I’d like to address to help me stay organized. Once I’ve honed down on my ingredients that are compatible, then I create the formula. It then takes time to test the formula and create samples. Once I’m happy with the formula I begin stability testing which could take months. When I’m finally ready to try it out I give samples to friends and family for feedback.

Anti-aging:  do you view it as an offensive term, a false marketing concept, a worthy pursuit, or something else entirely?  Why?

SD:  I don’t want to be defined by age. I believe beauty is timeless and we all grow old and wiser with age. The term Anti-aging is just that..a term. I aim to encourage women to accept aging with grace. I like to refer to anti-aging instead as pro-aging. I think we can all look our best with a little help and a good skincare routine. A healthy attitude and lifestyle goes a long way in keeping you looking your best at any age. I’m not against plastic surgery or anything one does to enhance their beauty. It’s a personal decision and I say do you. Who am I to judge what makes someone feel good about themselves. It’s not about words; it’s about self-perception, awareness, and being at peace internally.

What is your philosophy on exfoliation, and what are your thoughts on how to strike a balance without overdoing it and causing damage to the skin barrier?

SD:  I think exfoliation is an important step in your skincare routine. As we age, our skin needs a little help to shed that dead skin as it takes longer to do on its own. When you exfoliate, you not only remove the dead skin cells, but you aid in new cells coming through. Your products absorb better, and your makeup goes on more smoothly. If you are breakout prone, you need to exfoliate so your dead skin does not build up as food for bacteria causing more breakouts. However, for skin that is normal to combo, you only need to exfoliate 1-2 times a week. If you are breakout prone, 3 times a week is plenty. You can cause more dryness and sensitivity to over exfoliate by removing natural lipids that help to protect the skin barrier.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your brand and products?

SD:  I want my consumers to enjoy their daily cleanse and look forward to it. After you’ve washed your face and get ready for your day or end your day and are getting ready to sleep, your skin will feel good, refreshed, soft. If using the Everlasting facial oil, and you look in the mirror and see how your skin glows, I want you to smile at your beautiful self and feel beautiful. When people come to my Instagram profile I want them to find a community of acceptance and positivity.

After using my Renew oil to milk cleanser, you are left with skin that feels clean, yet supple not tight and dry. A daily cleanser should not strip your skin and I genuinely believe that less is more. Less acids, less foam, less exfoliation.

My Everlasting facial oil was created for all skin types as a daily moisturizer with added pro-aging actives such as Bakuchiol and White Lupin seed, both proven to be effective in the synthesis of collagen and increase elasticity and firmness in the skin. I say pro-aging because I believe it is inevitable that we are going to age, but we can do it gracefully and embrace it. It Restores the natural moisture barrier and infuses the skin with antioxidants and omega-rich 3,6,9 nourishing oils. It also absorbs easily into the skin leaving it smooth, supple, and moisturized.

Every package that goes out includes dried roses and a handwritten thank you note sealed with wax. I want each unboxing experience to feel like a present because it is, it’s a present to yourself or gifted to you by a loved one. My brand is about self-love and treating yourself to great quality natural skincare you can feel good about and that feels good on your skin.

What do you see as the greatest success of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare so far and what are your hopes and dreams for the future?

SD:  So far I’m just grateful to have launched my website this year with two award winning products. I hope to create additional products for my line in the next few years to offer a full range of skincare, yet keeping it simple and essential. I also would like to expand my reach to consumers by creating relationships with other Estheticians to sell my products as well as retail locations both online and in person boutiques.

The post Interview with Sarah Duran of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Janet Schriever, Code of Harmony Skincare founder, approaches her passion for clean, multi-benefit cannabidiol (CBD) skincare with impressive commitment and energy.  Her products synergistically combine hemp with a luscious array of soothing plant-based cosmeceuticals.  Code of Harmony Skincare formulations are loaded with active ingredients yet designed to nurture even sensitive skin, with a strong emphasis on soothing the symptoms of irritable and problem skin and promoting youthful vitality.  In addition to doing tons of research on ingredients and formulation, Ms. Schriever has taken classes at UCLA and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and recently enrolled in a 40-hour-a-week esthetician school as well!  Somehow, she also finds the energy to singlehandedly manage Code of Harmony Skincare, an indie beauty line that she has singlehandedly crafted start to finish.  If Ms. Schriever is particularly committed to Code of Harmony and its customers (with whom she genuinely enjoys connecting), perhaps it is because she knows the potential her products hold as well as the huge weight that is lifted when a person finally finds a fix for troubled skin.  For decades, Ms. Schriever herself struggled with and tirelessly sought a topical solution to help calm her rosacea, which led her to discover the soothing benefits of CBD.  Knowing she was onto something, Ms. Schriever built Code of Harmony Skincare—the original beauty-focused CBD line–out of a genuine love for the skin benefits.  Looking at her clear and glowing complexion now, I am eager to incorporate Code of Harmony products into my regular routine.  Indeed, it’s hard to believe Ms. Schriever’s skin was ever troubled; today at 50, she exudes radiance and easily looks 15 years younger.  Lucky for me, once I started using her high-performance products, a bit of that youthful luminosity seemed to rub off on me.  (You can read my reviews of Code of Harmony Skincare here and here!)

Code of Harmony Skincare Founder Janet Schriever

Are there any misconceptions about CBD that you would like to clear up right off the bat? 

 Janet Schriever (JS): CBD won’t get you high.  My products won’t cause you to fail a drug test or smell like weed.  Also, people sometimes assume that Code of Harmony Skincare is hippie-dippy or that it’s simple and homemade because CBD is the star ingredient, but in reality, my formulas are very complex.  For example, the delivery system I use, Safflower Oleosomes, work in a time-released fashion and gradually releases the active ingredients.  When it comes to beneficial ingredients, I use a lot of them; every ingredient in my products has been chosen because of its skin benefits.  There are no ingredients there just for sensorial effect or fragrance because I want everything to serve the skin rather than just serving the formulation.

 How did you get started in skincare?

JS:  I looked at the skincare I was using and noticed all the fillers and things that really didn’t need to be there—about 98% of the formulations were fillers and ingredients that weren’t helping skin.  I wanted formulations with ingredients there to truly benefit skin. I originally started making products by myself with every soothing and anti-aging ingredient I could find.  I had no intention of selling anything.  I hate to say I was going for something gentle because the products are actually very efficacious, but I didn’t want them to worsen skin problems or cause irritation.  I spent a ton of time doing trial and error and conducting research.    My research led to discoveries like the fact that chamomile, despite being soothing, can cause a reaction in a number of people, myself included; I went a little deeper in my research and found that the calming component in chamomile, bisabolol, gives the same benefit without the risk of reaction [hence, the reason Code of Harmony uses bisabolol extracted from chamomile rather than the full-spectrum plant].  I would love to put all the botanicals on the label, but for people with sensitized skin, often highly-purified extracts deliver more optimal benefits without irritation.

What has your journey been as a formulator?

JS:  I’m 80% self-taught.  I took some classes at UCLA and some workshops here and there for some formal training, but most of what I know I’ve learned through research.  At first, I was reading a ton, but I wasn’t discerning enough about the source.  Eventually, I stopped reading blogs and informal publications and started reading clinical trials.  I also used my own experience, looking to other products and ingredients that have worked well and are proven effective.

Can you describe your own skin frustrations, how you discovered CBD, and the difference it made?

JS:  I struggled with rosacea for years, and it was bad off an on, but at 46, it really flared up.  I spent several years experimenting, doing DIY projects trying to find and create something to get my skin under control.  It was a long experimental process.  I started another skincare line briefly.  Then I went to a meeting with an organization called Women Grow that supports women getting into the cannabis business.  I was not particularly interested in cannabis being a business, but I was slightly curious about CBD.  At the meeting, I learned about CBD and what it could do internally in the body.  It immediately clicked for me that it could be a fantastic skincare ingredient.  At the time, CBD in skincare was primarily targeting pain relief, and there were not any beauty-focused CBD lines on the market.  I decided to try it, and it took the products I had been making to a whole new level.  My skin responded beautifully, and I soon got confirmation that others’ did as well.

What are your favorite benefits of CBD for skin?

JS: The calming, soothing benefits are pretty great.  Studies have proven we have an endocannabinoid system in our skin that responds to CBD, and when that system is toned, you can see good results. CBD is wonderful at helping to alleviate the symptoms of acne, eczema, rosacea.  It’s also a great ingredient for sensitive skin and aging.  If you react to some skincare or have trouble tolerating a lot of it, you may have better luck with a CBD product.  That said, every CBD skincare product has to prove itself on its own merit.  They are not all created equal!

Have there been any challenges related to introducing a CBD line specifically?

JS:  I spent an entire year trying to educate consumers about some of the basics about CBD. The type of CBD I use is not going to get you high or test positive on a drug test.  The CBD isolate I use in Code of Harmony Skincare is completely free of THC (e.g., tetrahydrocannabinol, the chemical compound in cannabis responsible for the high), so what they test for in a drug test is completely absent.

A report by market research firm Brightfield Group notes that hemp-derived CBD is still treated as a controlled substance by the U.S. Drug Enforcement Agency despite the fact that it will not get a person high or test positive on a drug test.  Why is a non-psychoactive substance being treated as dangerous, and what challenges does this present to Code of Harmony Skincare as a small independent business?

JS:  The US government has a patent on CBD as a neuroprotectant and antioxidant and yet maintains that CBD is not therapeutic.  It is still a Schedule I Drug according to the DEA, and the DEA treats CBD the same no matter where it’s derived.  In their eyes, hemp-derived CBD is the same as cannabis-derived CBD.  However, we have to remember who actually makes the laws—Congress, not the DEA.  The problem that this creates for me is consumer perception.  The consumer is confused about whether they can legally buy a CBD product.  Yes, it’s legal; the DEA will not come arrest you.  The Farm Bill says that hemp-derived CBD is legal as long as it is under 0.3% THC [note: Code of Harmony Skincare’s hemp-derived CBD isolate contains no THC], and luckily the stigma is lessening as people realize how safe and beneficial it is.  There’s no reason that hemp should not be 100% legal without any “grey” area or question about where it is derived.  Hemp is grown for all sorts of purposes—paper, clothes, food, medicine.

Many CBD beauty companies encounter banking difficulties due to federal regulations. Has it been difficult to obtain the financial backing you need, and how have you managed?

JS:  Code of Harmony Skincare has faced the same issues with banking that any cannabis business would.  Most banks will shut down merchant processing, and this has happened to me several times.  Larger CBD companies have resources to work this out, but I am self-funded and doing everything myself.  Customers have to buy Code of Harmony Skincare by virtual check.  A lot of customers get put off by that because it can make them start wondering if it’s an illicit purchase.  Really, it’s just a banking issue and not a legality issue, but it has certainly been a challenge for my business.  In terms of larger funding issues, there has been interest from investment companies, but unless they understand the CBD market (which most don’t), it may seem like too much risk for them.  Regulatory issues have made growth slower for me.  As a small business owner who is self-funded, it has been daunting at times.  CBD is a great ingredient, but if it were easy to incorporate CBD into products, you would see all the big corporations jumping on the trend.  Still, I think it [the trouble] will be worth it.  CBD is still new on the market, still seen as somewhat of a novelty ingredient.  I keep hoping things will get easier (business-wise) as CBD’s benefits and safety record become more common knowledge.

What is your approach to formulation?  How did you decide on the additional beneficial ingredients to include in each product along with CBD?

JS:  I’m a big proponent of natural and botanical ingredients and use a variety of them in Code of Harmony.  [Indeed, Code of Harmony ingredient lists feature an array of precious botanicals like Sea Kelp Bioferment, Tremella Mushroom Extract, Safflower Oleosomes, Goji Berry Root Extract, Licorice Root Extract, Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Guava Seed Oil, Watermelon Seed Oil, CoQ10, Pomegranate Oil, Sea Buckthorn CO2, and many more!]  I use them whenever possible, but I also use cosmeceutical extracts, vitamins, and antioxidants.  It’s not easy formulating products naturally.  What many consumers don’t understand is that full-spectrum plant extracts are strong, and there are often a lot of things in them that can irritate and inflame skin.  I love botanicals, and I choose the most efficacious ingredient that is best for the formula.  For instance, I use CBD-isolate rather than the full-spectrum hemp extract, as I use extracts like Centella Asiatica, Resveratrol, and Bisabolol to deliver the benefit without risking reaction.  Yes, they are highly purified, concentrated, and standardized plant extracts, which contain only the benefit and much less of any potential irritant. A lot of this goes against what people want to believe, but not every plant extract is good and not every synthetic is bad; a lab-created ingredient or extract may deliver equal or greater benefit and be a lot easier on the skin than something directly from a plant.

What have you learned about what it takes to launch and run a successful skincare line today?

JS:  I made a ton of mistakes and said yes to things I shouldn’t have.  The main takeaway is this, though:  if you stare down your fears, they eventually go away.  The success I have had is due to blind faith and a ton of work.  Through Instagram and events, I have met really cool people who trust and love Code of Harmony Skincare products.  I’ve really loved the aspect of connecting to my customers, and there’s been a lot of really great support and excitement.  It’s been unexpected and very cool.  That said, I am still very small and still growing.  I have much to do before I will feel secure about calling my business a success.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

JS:  I like a combination of natural and high-performance ingredients in my products.  The market tended to have very natural and organic products without much efficacy (they don’t offer much to skin issues).  On the other hand, traditional fully synthetic products with synthetic emulsifiers and lots of fillers are not helping the skin either.  Traditional skin care formulations can also cause irritation and are far from “clean.”  I wanted to create products with a natural emphasis that were full of every beneficial calming/soothing/nurturing ingredient I could find.  I wanted the products to be gentle in the sense that they won’t trigger irritation yet highly effective and results-driven.  Because I am not a traditional cosmetic chemist (and most of them learn in the lab and on the job), I don’t use a ton of surfactants or lab-created ingredients that are used in traditional skin care.  I came at this with the intention that every ingredient in my products should benefit and serve the skin.  I didn’t want filler ingredients in the products, so you won’t find white and fluffy creams in the line; my products are sort of a light ochre color because of the botanicals and antioxidants in them, and they have natural scents that come from the ingredients that are also helping your skin.

Janet Schriever

How is  Code of Harmony Skincare unique among CBD-skincare lines?

JS:  I blindly jumped into this, because I loved it.  I was the first to create a CBD-enhanced “clean” beauty line.  I have put a lot of love, faith, and time into crafting my products.  Now CBD is becoming a hot ingredient, and there are a bunch of lines popping up.  Some of these other companies white-label [i.e., buying their products from a huge producer and then rebranding it to make it appear like they made it].  I would love to see other brand owners put a little more time and thought into their formulas and sourcing, so they know exactly what they’re selling, what every ingredient does, and why it is in the formula.  So even if you are not the chemist, you can be aware of what you are selling and the potential benefits and risks.  For the consumer, you still want to find thoughtfully-formulated products with good reviews.  I choose every ingredient in my products to serve the skin, and my line shows that.  I strive to keep Code of Harmony Skincare accessible rather than pricing it out of range.  I am able to keep prices reasonable because I don’t have a lot of overhead.  It’s just me, and I’m not paying myself.

Code of Harmony Skincare uses a CBD isolate rather than a full-spectrum extract.  What are the advantages of this?

JS:  I find the isolate is less allergenic than the full-spectrum.  The isolate has the terpenes taken out, so there’s no scent, and this is greatly preferred by most people.  Taking the terpenes out lessens reactivity.

What current trends or pressures in the beauty industry frustrate you and which ones excite you, and why?

JS:  The clean beauty/indie thing happening right now is awesome.  Code of Harmony uses clean formulas that are free of fillers and harsh synthetics and full of rich phytonutrients, soothing ingredients, and anti-aging actives.  I think this is a smart approach.  At the same time, though, I think people need to get a little more educated about clean beauty because things are less black-and-white than a lot of consumers believe.  There are a lot of black-and-white attitudes without much digging deeper, and a lot of people are rule-bound to a fault, saying, “I will not use chemicals on my face,” when everything is chemical, or, “I’m not going to use anything I can’t pronounce.”  Some vendors put their consumers at risk by not using preservatives in products that require them.  Then there’s the sustainability issue.  I’m all for natural ingredients, but some things will actually be more sustainable when they’re not taken from nature—such as Sandalwood Oil or Hyaluronic Acid (that used to come from only an animal source and is now created in a lab).

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

JS:  The response and interest have been great.  My business has been very much about integrity and being transparent.  I try to give people realistic ideas about what to expect or not from each product.  The other thing to know is that the whole line has come from one person from start to finish.  I have done everything myself.  In terms of success, I am still so new!  There’s been a lot of interest from estheticians who want something new and effective.  There’s also been a great response from clients with hormonal cystic acne, rosacea, and other skin troubles; people send me dramatic Before and After pictures.  I don’t solicit these, but they send them in out of gratitude for the transformation they’ve seen in their skin.  Indie Beauty Expo (IBE) has been really invaluable in getting press exposure.  I participated in IBE’s BeautyX live deskside pitch contest, Deskside Domination and was chosen by Glamour, Allure, and Fat Mascara podcast as the winner.  This is huge for a little indie brand like me!  It proved to me that I am doing something of value.  I don’t plan on going anywhere.  I’m really passionate about this and not just jumping on CBD as a fad.

Read my reviews of Code of Harmony Skincare here and here!

The Code of Harmony Skincare Collection

The post Code of Harmony Skincare Founder Interview: Meet Janet Schriever appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

What is the story of how you decided to create NeoRhythm? What was the initial inspiration?        

Marko Kadunc (MK): Well, some things are just meant to happen, and NeoRhythm was one of them. With PEMF being one of the most user-friendly technologies, recognized by science, well tested and safe to use, we thought why not take advantage of it. Initial research showed there is still a lot of room for improvement and upgrade, and that’s when we realized for the first time, this might be a beginning of a great journey.

With technology development, IoT, and other modern solutions that are becoming more and more available on the market, it gives scientists, developers, and entrepreneurs unlimited possibilities to create solutions that could change people’s lives for the better in many ways.

As NeoRhythm CEO, how/when did you know that you and the team had a good idea?

MK: Most people believe that once the product is developed, (in our case, scientifically confirmed), tested and launched, that’s when you know. But the truth is, that’s only the beginning. We only knew our idea was good after receiving feedback from the first 3000 customers that confirmed we are on the right track. But it’s an ongoing journey, and improvement never really ends as the initial idea keeps getting upgraded.

Could you explain what Pulsed Electromagnetic Fields (PEMF) technology is and why you and your team at MDCN Technologies, Inc. wanted to make this specific technology widely accessible to consumers?

PEMF technology has been used in big, expensive wellness devices for decades with great success. It is used as a treatment for various medical conditions such as chronic pain, fractures and depression and has been shown as promising and safe to treat cancer in studies. It is a form of neurostimulation that encourages your brain to mimic external signals provided by the device in a non-invasive and entirely safe way. With PEMF being scientifically proven, non-invasive and FDA approved as well as safe, we thought it was the right choice to make it accessible to practically everyone.

So how does PEMF really work? If you’ve ever felt yourself sleepy while on a train ride, the repetitive chug-a-chug of the wheels lulling you to sleep, there’s a neurological reason for that. The rhythm of the wheels matches a brain wave state that encourages relaxing and sleep. Our brains take a cue from the movements of the train and mirror the rhythm. The result is that your state of mind shifts into sleep mode.

We want to bring PEMF to people to help them train their brains to work for them, not against them. They are to use it in the comfort of their own home for self-care and consequently avoid  the development of a clinical condition.

How does PEMF compare to other forms of neurostimulation such as Transcranial Magnetic Stimulation (rTMS), which uses much higher stimuli approaching neuronal firing level? How do the impacts and potential benefits of these two modalities differ?

MK: Firstly, NeoRhythm is built for a variety of purposes, unlike other rTMS (brain stimulation therapies used to treat depression) devices are, although it uses the same technology. As opposed to rTMS, we can use PEMF every day, meaning we do not need to wait for a clinical condition to appear and start treating it when too late. We all know it’s better to prevent rather than cure, and that is what NeoRhythm helps you do. It also provides brainwave entrainment, which rTMS devices don’t. There is also, of course, the price-performance ratio.

How did you and your scientific team determine an ideal intensity for the magnetic fields generated by NeoRhythm in terms of maximizing efficacy while maintaining optimal safety for a consumer device?

Well, this wasn’t hard with a team of experts and a multidisciplinary board of advisers, as well as PEMF, being so thoroughly studied, proven safe, non-invasive, and used through decades. Over the years, we have assembled an ambitious team of 15+ experts in various fields and have invited prominent experts in the areas of neuroscience and technology to work with us in various phases of development.

When you consider the potential applications of your technology for the medical and professional sphere, are there specific ailments that you would like to target, and why? Without getting into anything proprietary, how would you tweak or adjust the basic design of the consumer-targeted NeoRhythm in order to create a clinical device?  To what general degree (if any) would clinical disorders require a higher magnetic field intensity for a therapeutic response?

MK: We believe that there are three things you need in order to solve most of your problems – a good night’s sleep, being able to relax and concentrate fully. And that’s what we help people to reach with NeoRhythm. Although it is designed as a wellness device, there is a thin line between clinical and wellness.

The basic design, with some minor adaptions, is already pre-prepared for the medical up-grade to treat depression and migraines. NeoRhythm could already be the answer to some of these issues. But, all these clinical conditions deserve more attention and broader understanding of the client/patient needs, and this has to be integrated into hardware, software, and above all, into communication channels of the company. This will, of course, influence the final price, as it takes the initial NeoRhythm to a higher level.

NeoRhythm is built on the experiences of our research team, especially Bion Institute, and also on the experiences of other scientific and clinical studies. Higher magnetic field intensity is proved to be effective, especially in treating depression, but why using higher intensities, if we can achieve the same results with low-intensity solutions. All PEMF solutions should be based on the scientific/clinical studies but also be confirmed by users so there is a confirmation both by science and people, who are the users after all.

Last but not least, that core NeoRhythm advantage is brainwave entrainment, and this is one of the functionalities where NeoRhythm differs from the higher intensity solutions on the market.

Could you explain the regenerative effects seen with PEMF and what is responsible for them?

MK: There are many studies on PEMF being proven effective on tissue regeneration, but what is mentioned mostly is nerve regeneration – which is one of the main reasons to use PEMF. Nerve regeneration means that the nervous tissues, cells, and cell products are able to repair, and PEMF has been proven effective even with individuals suffering from neurological issues such as spine pain, multiple sclerosis, or even stroke, which proves its power.

What inspired you to create a neurostimulation wearable that can be positioned different ways to target specific areas of the brain? Could you tell us a little about how you determined the ideal placement and frequencies for each of your unique programs?

MK: Electromagnetism is one of the four fundamental forces in the universe and is responsible for innumerable observable phenomena in everyday life. NeoRhythm harnesses its power to produce frequencies that encourage the mind to function in your preferred state, from energy and concentration to sleep to pain control and beyond. And it does so like no other device – it features five inverted coils, strategically placed across the comfortable headband, to produce harmless electromagnetic fields that emit waves in patterns that your mind seeks to imitate. Because of well-thought positioning of 5 magnetic-field-generating inverted coils, which separately and in-tune target specific areas in the brain (prefrontal cortex, temporal lobes, cerebellum, parietal lobe, occipital lobe) or spinal cord to offer the largest and most precise stimulation area on the market today.

NeoRhythm can be placed in any of the 5 predetermined stimulation positions; each one designed access directly to the right part of the brain to provoke the desired state of mind. For example, if you choose the Energy & Vitality mode, it is best to wear the headband over the prefrontal cortex region. For Pain Control, the headband should be worn in a slightly lower position, at the back of the head or even around the back of the neck, to better access the parietal and temporal lobes.

A little bit about frequencies: gamma brainwaves have the highest frequencies (30 Hz+) and are dominant in states with heightened perception. Beta brainwaves (14-30 Hz) are dominant when we are awake, and our consciousness is normally alert. Alpha brainwaves (9-13 Hz) are dominant when we are relaxed – still awake but less alert and perceptive. Theta brainwaves (4-8 Hz) are dominant when we are in a state of reduced consciousness – light and REM sleep, dreaming, or deep meditation. Delta brainwaves (less than 4 Hz) are dominant when we are in a deep sleep without awareness of our surroundings.

NeoRhythm has been carefully programmed by a team of scientists to generate specific dominant rhythm (through controlled low and medium-intensity magnetic fields that develop a minimum flux density of 2.5 gauses and a maximum of 25 gauses) that mirror the mind’s naturally-occurring wave frequencies. Each frequency matches a “state of mind” that we associate with specific activities. In this way, you can choose your preferred state of mind by selecting one of the NeoRhythm programs, and your mind will seek to match NeoRhythm’s suggestion. The intensities created have been proven effective, yet still non-invasive and safe to use.

For example, the program for sleep improvement uses the dominant frequency of 4 Hz, a magnetic flux density of 2.5 mT,  and the accompanying frequency of 2.67 Hz with a magnetic flux density of 0.25mT.

What are the most remarkable things you have learned about the power and benefit of PEMF since launching MDCN Technologies, Inc. and developing NeoRhythm?

MK: How it can truly change your life when you make other changes in it, besides using PEMF. It is incredible what kind of power our brain has over our lives, and we’re just starting to understand and take advantage of it fully. No magic pill is needed. What we need is a good night’s sleep, healthy nutrition, and an active lifestyle that will help us take full advantage of PEMF and truly change our lives for the better.

The Sleek NeoRhythm Headband

Your company is very committed to science and clinical (scientific) testing.  In addition to using scientifically-confirmed frequencies that have been widely studied and FDA-approved for medical and wellness purposes, NeoRhythm has also undergone two double-blind, placebo-controlled studies to formally demonstrate its safety and effectiveness. Why is this commitment to science important to you, and what sorts of further studies are either underway or planned?

MK: Well, without being backed by science, you cannot prove it to be effective, right? If it weren’t backed by science, it would have been just guessing what it could do. That’s why we decided to use PEMF, which is already used widely and proven effective and safe.

We are already preparing for our next research – tackling sleep. Our goal is to define frequencies better so we can then address different sleep disorders and problems. As we are all different, we find it essential to find solutions to various problems in order to help as many people as possible. Unfortunately, there is no universal device, but with modern software solutions (mostly in connection with smartphones) we see options to research and therefore adapt our technology for different needs easily and cost-effectively.

What is the greatest lesson you have learned so far in your career as an entrepreneur?

MK: It’s all about people. I mean it. I’ve learned that you have to connect with people you trust and how important mutual respect is, among co-workers, partners, and customers. I also find it important to have clear goals and always know what your next step is.

What was your mission at the outset of creating MDCN Technologies, and has the mission evolved over time or with new discoveries? If so, how?

MK: Our long-term vision was and is still the same. We want to become the reference point for life quality improvement, where we use transcranial magnetic field technology. We want to optimize our technology by making it invincible and trying to be as customer-centric as possible. We have always kept our customer’s needs in mind. We learned a lot from the first users’ feedback and used it to improve our product. The first headband was redesigned and made much lighter, more comfortable, and more flexible. We developed a new and comprehensive app. We added features to address a broader range of different issues. Over the years, we have developed new ideas and solutions together in the field of PEMF devices with a common goal: to improve the quality of life for all, and the mission stays the same.

What are the biggest problems you hope to solve through NeoRhythm and future endeavors?

MK: We strive to develop medical devices and other devices with high efficiency, that are based on PEMF technology so we can make PEMF available for all people – improving people’s lives is our mission after all. We have set a few goals we want to reach in the next 3 years – to optimize the frequency and include other technical solutions that would make our PEMF technology smarter are two of the most important for us. And of course, helping people improve their lives in the process. We try to offer our customers as much advice as we can to make their lives better, besides using our product.

When it comes to NeoRhythm, we believe in its power to change the world by changing people’s lives for the better first. This is why, to get a chance to make our revolutionary innovation visible to the global population, we decided to join the Innovation World Cup this year. Thousands of contestants from over 80 countries have taken part, and we are ready to join them and shake the future! The most important thing for us right now is to bring NeoRhythm to the spotlight across the WT (wearable technology) scene, so it can improve the lives of people worldwide and begin its global journey. It’s ready to do that by being proven effective and helping thousands of people worldwide already.

The post Interview with Marko Kadunc, OmniPEMF & NeoRhythm CEO appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

I’m pleased to introduce my exclusive interview with Coyran Cheung, founder and formulator of OSCO, a natural and organic skincare line focused on pollution defense.  Coyran is a registered nurse whose lovely products reflect knowledge from her healthcare training and formal certification in organic formulation.  I hope you enjoy our conversation!  To find out more about OSCO’s offerings, be sure to check out my review of the line’s first release, Pollution Defense Serum!

Coyran Cheung

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?  (Perhaps you can elaborate on what you  have already said in your Bio on the OSCO website.)

Coyran Cheung:  I started my journey into natural beauty when I was 23. My whole face broke out due to hormonal problems and the use of synthetic skincare products. For years I was depressed with low self-esteem, and I did not want to face anyone. I tried many solutions, but my skin didn’t improve at all until I started to use natural skincare and changed my lifestyle. My skin improved although it did take time. From this time on, I put trust in the power of natural and green beauty. I treasure this great gift from nature so much because it gave me back my life.

I am a registered nurse who worked shifts in the hospital. It is a meaningful job but hard and stressful. I love caring and helping people solve their concerns. However, I found my work-life balance was missing, as I spent most of the time working and working. I didn’t have extra time to do things that I like. I am very passionate about natural and green beauty as well as formulating effective skincare products to help people solve their problems. I then decided to study the International Organic Skincare Entrepreneur Program at Formula Botanica to enhance my formulation knowledge.  I graduated from Formula Botanica in 2017 and became a professional organic skincare formulator. Finally, in 2018, I chose to give up my high salary and stable job to regain balance and chase what I really desire – helping people in another way and solving their skin problems.  Now I do what I love, and I created my skincare brand with my passion for natural and green beauty – OSCO Natural & Organic!

How has overcoming your skin challenges (hormonal acne, something so many women struggle with) informed the way you conceptualize beauty and also how you approach product formulation?

Coyran Cheung:  I know it seems hopeless and frustrating when you are facing skin problems. But I do believe beauty is simple, pure, and clean. Using high-quality natural skincare products and a simple skincare routine will help! Of course, a healthy lifestyle is equally important.

Many people suffer from skin problems– especially acne, blackheads, large pores, dry and sensitive skin, hyperpigmentation, etc. Pollution is one of the reasons for that. Also, people are busy nowadays and want everything to be convenient. Therefore, I formulated the Pollution Defense Serum to solve people’s main skin concerns caused by pollution, without requiring a complicated skincare routine. I used 100% natural and 80% organic ingredients that are high in antioxidants and essential fatty acids to protect and repair the skin as it faces the polluted environment every day.

 How did you become aware of and then passionate about pollution and skincare?

Coyran Cheung:  Pollution has become more severe nowadays, UV radiation, air pollution, light pollution, and ozone depletion are a few of the more obvious causes. Generally, people are aware of the dangers of pollution, but very few take action to protect themselves against it.

Our skin needs protection against the harmful effects of pollution. People don’t realize how easy it is to protect their skin and to fight against environmental damage such as UV exposure, air pollution, allergens, and even seasonal aggressors.

I care about people, and I am eager to help them become confident, protected, and healthy in a polluted environment. Our skin is exposed to a harsh and unnatural environment and bombarded with different synthetic chemicals; I would love to support people in their natural beauty journey, helping their skin and bringing them back to nature.

 What are the most important effects of pollution on the skin?

 Coyran Cheung:  Pollution can lead to different effects on our skin. Squalene and vitamin E are the main antioxidants of the skin; however, when exposed to pollution, these antioxidants will be depleted as they combat oxidative stress in the skin, causing dry skin. Moreover, microscopic pollutants may infiltrate deeper layers of the epidermis, causing inflammation and sensitive skin. Pollution can also lead to excessive sebum secretion, uneven skin tone, wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity by breaking down collagen and the lipid layer in the skin, impairing barrier function. Ultimately, pollution results in premature aging.

OSCO Pollution Defense Serum

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

 Coyran Cheung:  OSCO exists to raise your health consciousness, address your skin concerns and bring you back to nature by providing natural and organic healthy lifestyle products.
We believe every person is connected to nature from birth.
We believe holistic wellness builds a positive mindset, health, and beauty from within.
We believe beauty is simple, pure, and clean.
We believe confidence is beauty.
We believe protection and prevention are as important as a cure for health and skin.

 You are a Professional Organic Skincare Formulator with formal training from Formula Botanica.  What do you see as the most valuable components of this training?  How has this training enhanced the line you have now created?

Coyran Cheung:  I definitely love Formula Botanica and am so proud to be one of their graduates. They teach step by step from basic and everything you need to know about organic skincare formulation. They also create a warm community for us to share everything about green beauty. Besides, I appreciate how Formula Botanica supports their students and graduates by helping them promote their business as well.

I graduated from the International Organic Skincare Entrepreneur Program, which is a very intensive and informative course. It has enhanced my knowledge and networking in the industry, as well as the quality of the line I have now created.

What are your biggest overarching goals as a) a formulator of Pollution Defense Serum and b) as a brand founder of OSCO? 

 Coyran Cheung:  My goal is to change people’s view on face oil, as it is actually a great skincare product that is effective, gentle, and multi-functional. Unlike synthetic or mineral oils, natural and organic plant oils are similar in composition to the lipids on your skin, so they are easily metabolized by your body. We don’t need to worry about our pores being clogged up. Moreover, I hope to help people solve their skin concerns caused by pollution with Pollution Defense Serum, making them feel protected and confident.

As a brand founder of OSCO, I hope to increase my brand awareness in Hong Kong and overseas so that to raise people’s health consciousness, solve their skin concerns and bring them back to nature. At the same time, I hope to educate them on the advantages and benefits of natural skincare. I hope people would join the green beauty journey.

You chose a beautiful blend of potent and precious oils and extracts for your star product, Pollution Defense Serum.  Can you tell us your favorite thing about each ingredient and why you wanted to include it as part of your formulation?

Coyran Cheung:

• Jojoba Oil: contains same waxy esters as in human sebum and does not clog pores
• Watermelon Seed Oil: minimizes pore size and detoxifies skin
• Prickly Pear Seed Oil: boosts collagen production, evens skin tone, high antioxidant properties
• Sacha Inchi Oil: contains high levels of Omega-3 (Alpha-linolenic acid) that helps regulate oils production and lock hydration in skin
• Pomegranate Seed Oil: boosts collagen production and contains unique essential fatty acid Omega-5 (Punicic acid) is obtained from the seed of the pomegranate. It is a powerful antioxidant that can destroy harmful free radicals and prevent aging
• Rosehip Seed CO2 Extract: treats scar tissues and blemishes
• Seabuckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract: contains palmitic acid that protects skin from unwanted penetration of environmental substances
• Rose Geranium Oil: balances hormones and oil production
• Lavender Oil: anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial that reduces inflammation and promotes wound healing
• Red Mandarin Oil: purifies skin and maintains moisture balance in the skin

What are some common mistakes you see people making in their skincare and in their pollution defense, and of these what makes you cringe the most and why?

Coyran Cheung:  People usually like to use many skincare steps with many different skincare products. It will add burden and even irritate the skin. We believe beauty is simple, pure, and clean. We do not need complicated steps and routine to treat our skin. To cleanse, hydrate and repair, protect and moisturize our skin is enough to maintain our skin health and function.

In the polluted environment, very few people take action to protect themselves against it. Wearing masks, sunscreen, sunglasses and applying skincare products that are high in antioxidants are the simple ways to boost pollution defense. (Suggested article: https://osconatural.com/blogs/skin-care-1/8-easy-ways-to-protect-and-repair-your-skin-against-pollution)

 Besides, people like to use synthetic skincare products because they like the (artificial) fragrance and ‘effective’ results on their skin. Those ‘effective’ results are mainly due to the synthetic ingredients that may destroy some of the skin structures or be harmful to the skin (or even health in the long term) to give quick and visible results. However, when people stop using those synthetic ones, they may feel like their skin returns to the original condition and even worse. It may take time to see the results with natural skincare products (actually they are potent, high performance and effective), but I know you won’t be disappointed when you and your skin are overall in a ‘real’ healthy condition.

Moreover, I would like to educate people more about what is truly natural and how to screen their ingredient lists. There are many brands on the market claiming that they are natural when they actually are not. I hope to help people know more about the ‘real’ natural beauty industry so they can choose what will truly benefit them.

What is your process for creating a product?  Do you plan to launch other products in the line in time?

 Coyran Cheung:  Research and development process is very important for creating a product. I did a lot of research before creating Pollution Defense Serum. Trial and error is crucial as well. I will seriously consider and carefully select the packaging for different products to ensure its quality and benefits to the ingredients.  It really takes time, but I enjoy it very much. I plan for there to be more products in the line in future.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with OSCO Pollution Defense Serum?

 Coyran Cheung:  OSCO Pollution Defense Serum is different from many serums in that it lets your skin breathe. It is a high-performance facial oil with light and fast absorbing texture. You don’t need to worry about breakouts. It is suitable for all skin types. The scent of the serum is wonderful and relaxing. This serum is made with 12 potent and precious oils and extracts (100% natural and 80% certified organic ingredients) that are high in antioxidants and fatty acids (Omega-3, 5, 6, 7, 9) that your skin definitely needs. Pollution Defense Serum will protect, detoxify, repair and strengthen your skin’s fight against the polluted environment. Your skin will be improved with visible results (skin becomes supple and soft, skin barrier strengthened, pores minimized, skin tone improved) upon regular use without any burden.

 What is your philosophy on the use of essential oils?

 Coyran Cheung:  Less is more. I selected lavender, mandarin and rose geranium essential oils as they work in synergy and give a high performance to the serum which focuses on anti-pollution. The mixed scent of floral, green and citrus is soothing and relaxing. Another reason I selected these three essential oils is they are not photo-sensitive so that we can use it day and night.

Thank you for reading!

Check out OSCO!  See them on Facebook.  Follow OSCO on Instagram.

Be sure to check out my review of the line’s first release, Pollution Defense Serum!

The post Interview with OSCO’s Coyran Cheung appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Five Elements Skincare is a lovely natural skincare line from New Zealand.  In addition to enjoying and reviewing several of the products, I also had the privilege of interviewing Five Elements Skincare Founder Karen Mackay, a trained botanist who brings a deep knowledge of plants to her formulations.

Five Elements Founder Karen Mackay

What are the Five Elements?

Karen Mackay (KM): Ginkgo / Ginko–Extract of ginkgo biloba is very useful both for the skin and for the hair, it has a strong effect against the course of oxidative processes in the skin and also inhibits the activity of free radicals, it cleanses the contaminated skin and pores from sebum well, protects the skin from harmful external influences, and beautiful. It is used in anti-cellulite products because of its anti-edematous effect.

Olive Oil–Has a regenerating effect, smooths wrinkles, prevents their formation. Used to grow and strengthen hair. Due to the high content of antioxidants, it is often used in products for fading skin.

Plantain / Plantago–The extract contains vitamins C, A, K, tannins, mucus, glycosides, aucubin, bitter substances, a small amount of phytoncides and alkaloids, carbohydrates, saponins. It has bactericidal, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, cleansing and astringent action. Used in anti-inflammatory drugs, facial care, hand creams, after-sun lotions, preparations for the porous skin of the face, for sensitive skin.

Sorrel / Rumex–Conditioner for the skin, emollient, brightening effect, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory.

Rosemary / Rosemary–An indispensable assistant in the fight against acne, acne, well softens even the coarsest skin.

In addition to this base in the composition of organic rose hips, avocado, jojoba, essential oils of geranium, palmarosa and lavender. And that’s all. Nothing much, very natural composition.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

KM: To answer this question, I need to tell you my story about how this business started:

I was a practicing teacher for decades! (Maths, Science and Biology at secondary school level). Towards the end of my teaching career, I had a student in one of my classes who was scratching her arms to bleeding point with eczema. Every time I looked at this kid she was scratching herself and obviously in a great deal of discomfort; she was from a compromised family background, I felt sorry for her and one weekend (in October; I had been teaching her since Feb that year), I was determined that I was going to make a skin cream/ balm/ ointment that would soothe her condition.

I live rurally on our small sheep farm and knew what was growing in the area and what I had access to.  I sat down and researched the benefits of certain plants, how to make the appropriate extracts, balm etc. Shortly thereafter I gave this lass a tub of what I now call Skin Tonic, told her to apply it at least twice a day, or as needed and within four days her condition had completely cleared!! Initially, I thought that this response was a placebo effect…she liked me, wanted to please me…and her body had come to the party! However, over the next year or so, I trialed the product extensively with people who had all sorts of compromised skin conditions, including severe burns, wounds, eczema, dermatitis, rashes, blisters to great success; it even dampens down psoriasis and rosacea (those skin conditions that have an emotional trigger won’t be cured until the emotional issue has been addressed, but the Skin Tonic will significantly reduce the symptoms).

Given the extensive anecdotal feedback that I have now received from hundreds of people, this extract obviously provides the skin with a concentrated form of anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, and nutrients, and by enhancing blood circulation, allows for more oxygen saturation and provides a greater detox through the increased removal of wastes at the skin level. It was at this point of realization that I decided to make a skin product range that would contain as its core ingredient what we now call our Elemental Phyto-extracts.

The only product that you won’t find our Elemental Phyto-extracts in is the Sunscreen – I tried to include it, and it worked just fine, but after a few weeks, purple steaks began forming throughout the product and I realized that the mineral rich nature of the product was causing an oxidation of the potassium and manganese by the zinc oxide, to form potassium permanganate which is Condy’s Crystals. I didn’t think that people trying to protect themselves from excessive sun exposure would resort to purple steaks adorning their bodies, so I removed it from the ingredient list.

What are your biggest overarching goals as a) a formulator and b) as a brand founder?

KM: Customer satisfaction in terms of product delivery expectations.  No additives that will compromise the health of the user. To eliminate unnecessary ingredients and maximize the benefits of natural plant-derived extracts. Ethical and enviro-friendly practices. Sustainability of plant ingredients.

What is your process for creating a new product?

KM: We are always looking for better ways to develop new and helpful products. We have not formalized our approach to new product development, but listen to our customers; when they bring their suggestions, we try them out on at small scale first and then improve the formulation, keeping things as good and natural as they can be.

How would you describe the experience you want consumers to have with Five Elements products?

KM: Customer satisfaction in terms of product delivery expectations. No harmful reactions with use of the product. To engender a feeling of satisfaction that they are giving their skin the maximum nutrient benefit, in the most natural way, in order to maintain a healthy appearance.

Can you describe your signature Elemental Phytoextracts and how this makes Five Elements unique?

KM: Early on we identified the five healing plants, from which we derive our name: Ginkgo, Rosemary, Rumex, Plantago, and Olive.  These plants have been used in traditional medicine for hundreds, if not thousands of years and scientific studies back up their efficacy as healing agents.  This Five Elements extract is pure ‘skin food’; with a high concentration of anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, minerals, vitamins, and other beneficial phytonutrients.

How has your post-graduate degree in botany influenced your approach to skincare and product formulation?

KM: Comfortable with critiquing research, as well as growing and working with plants and understanding their nutritional needs. This knowledge enables me to provide an environment that maximizes plant health and therefore the quality of the extracts. I am familiar with working out formulas and ratios and laboratory techniques that are required for product formulation.

Five Elements uses locally-grown ingredients that are biodynamically grown.  Why is this approach important to you, and what additional benefits does it lend to your products and to the consumer?

KM: We farm organically and biodynamically, paying particular attention to soil health. This requires correct soil pH to allow the symbiotic bacteria to establish a healthy relationship with the plants so that they can maximize their soil nutrient absorption and in turn maximize their phytonutrient production. It also means that no artificial or synthetic products are going into the soil environment and being absorbed by the plants, which could potentially end up in the extracts.

Five Elements gives back to conservation efforts by supporting the Marlborough Bat Recovery Project.  How did you choose this cause, and why is it important?

KM: We live within walking distance of the beautiful Pelorus River Scenic Reserve, which is the home of one of the few remaining populations of long tailed bats in New Zealand; bats are the only indigenous mammals to our country! My husband, Don, is a member of a team of voluntary trappers of pest animals that pose a threat to the wildlife in this sanctuary, such as rats, mice and stoats. We believe in the beauty that exists in both people and in the environment, which we find ourselves in, and want to do our part to help make a positive and long lasting impact on our surroundings. We strongly believe everyone can play a role in making a difference in this world, no matter how small.

How can consumers outside of New Zealand enjoy your products?  Do you have any plans for international retailers?

KM: We are fortunate to have met many people from overseas who were visiting New Zealand, and I have had conversations with customers through cruise ship markets and with those who come to our shop in the local town of Picton. With many such people buying the product, liking it, and wanting more, this prompted us to set up an on-line presence. At the moment we receive a fair number of orders through our online store and stock our product in a few organic shops, mainly in Auckland.  We would like to expand when the time is right, to pass on the benefit of our products to a wider audience, and are presently exploring options.

How would you advise people to choose between the Skin Tonic Liquid and the Skin Tonic Balm?

KM: I suggest using the Liquid on the face and in the hair line, for ease of application – it is less gloopy; also on areas that are most compromised by a condition, as it contains 100% of the five plant extract. The balm equates to 85% of the extract and is recommended for the rest of the body.

Elemental Renewal Serum is so much more dynamic than the typical oil-based serums generally found on the market, in part due to the Elemental Phytoextracts, included at a whopping 50%. What sorts of benefits can customers expect to see given this generous amount of your Elemental Phytoextracts in this formulation?

KM: In formulating this serum, I wanted to include organic oils and essential oils that both complemented and supplemented the nutrient benefits of the five elemental phyto-extracts, but that were also user friendly and easily absorbed.

This is our premium product and is my personal favorite; it certainly ticks all the boxes with regard to repair, regeneration and maintaining skin vitality!

How would you advise someone to choose between Elemental Renewal Serum and Skin Tonic?

KM: If you don’t have a compromised skin condition, choose the ER serum, every time! If budget is a factor in your decision-making, you won’t be disappointed with the Skin Tonic Liquid. If your skin is sensitive and you have a sensitivity to essential oils, the Skin Tonic liquid would be a better choice.

Could you describe how you approach pricing and the ways in which you prioritize accessibility?

KM: May I just add as a final point that if you look at the prices of our product, relative to volume as well, we have kept the prices of the Skin Tonic Balm and Liquid, at a low and very cost effective price – our profit margins for these products are not at all high and deliberately so! From an ethical point of view, I want these products, as significant skin healers, to be affordable and within the buying reach of all who need and can benefit from their application.

Be sure to check out my review of Ms. Mackay’s products!

The post Interview with Five Elements Skincare Founder Karen Mackay appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Beige Dusk Greys is a delightful Etsy-hosted shop (and, in my opinion, one of the best on the wide-ranging platform) in which Dallas maker Andrea Rogers channels her creative powers and artistic talents to create two of her favorite things: handcrafted skincare products and fine paper goods.  An artisan with many talents, Ms. Rogers makes gorgeous stationery and parcel tags, but since I am skincare-obsessed, it was her skincare formulations that caught my eye.  I was searching Etsy shops for products with prickly pear seed oil and quickly found that–in a lovely blend with camellia seed oil, borage oil, jojoba oil, and house-infused fractionated coconut oil featuring nettle, rosemary, calendula, & thyme–and so much more in the Beige Dusk Greys shop.  Note:  many Beige Dusk Greys products contain coconut oil, but it is a special form that works well even on acne-prone skin.  Ms. Rogers is highly attuned to comedogenicity, so she uses fractionated coconut oil.  I am acne-prone and was initially nervous about applying anything with coconut oil–fractionated or not–but I was able to enjoy her formulations without any problems and feel totally comfortable recommending her line to others who deal with blemishes.

Andrea Rogers of Beige Dusk Greys

Ms. Rogers was exceptionally generous and gave me the opportunity to sample a true bundle of the skincare delights Beige Dusk Greys offers.  The shop is full of tempting formulations, but to get you started, here are some highlights.

Beige Dusk Greys Green Tea Oil Cleanser

Beige Dusk Greys Green Tea Oil Cleanser ($16)–-a light cleansing oil that easily rinses off cleanly, leaving skin fresh but not stripped and providing just the slightest hint of additional moisture.  The ingredients are nourishing, healing, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory, with the additional benefit of gentle antibacterial properties.  This is a great cleanser that effectively removes makeup yet never overdries; it leaves skin soft and smooth without any greasiness or heavy residue.  Green Tea Oil Cleanser is high-performance in terms of functionality and well-rounded benefits from its choice actives.  A very versatile product, this would work for all skin types, including acneic or sensitive.

Ingredients: Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Nettle, Green Tea, Chamomile, & Ginger Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower Seed Oil), Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, & Camellia Sinesnsis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract.

Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner

Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner ($12)–-a delicious, refreshing alcohol-free toner that has a naturally fragrant base of rose hydrosol with aloe juice for soothing hydration.  Along with antioxidant-rich rose, this toner also features Manuka honey extract (fantastic for hydration and healing) along with dynamic healing Royal Jelly (great for soothing nourishment, highly reparative).  The formula also includes gentle doses of lactic acid and Vitamin C to aid exfoliation and brightening; neither the is included at a level that would cause stinging or sensitivity, particularly when combined with the other soothing, moisturizing actives in the toner.  Unlike many toners that sting or burn sensitive skin, Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner is calming and cooling.  This is a wonderful hydrator that feels soothing on contact, and it offers great benefits for dry or sensitive skin.

Ingredients: Rosa Demascena (Rose Otto) Flower Distillate, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Aloe barbadensis (Aloe), Manuka Honey Extract, Butylene Glycol, Vegetable Glycerin, Apis Mellifera (Royal Jelly) Extract, Gluconolacctone, Sodium Benzoate, PEG -7 Olivate (Olive Esters), Glycerin, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, L-ascorbic Acid, Didecoldimonium Chloride, & Rosa Damascena (Rose) Oil.

Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm

Beige Dusk Greys Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm ($24)—a creamy, moisturizing balm that is perfect for nearly any skin type and divine for fussy or acne-prone types.  Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm has a light gel-oil sort of texture that sinks right in with only the lightest residue.  The lovely hue is thanks to soothing and gentle chamazulene, from both blue chamomile and blue tansy oils.  This along with beneficial actives like yarrow, indigo, and sacha inchi oil make this Balm a wonderful remedy for irritated and inflamed skin.  Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm is a lovely product packed with beneficial, soothing ingredients that calm troubled skin.

Ingredients: Indigofera Tinctoria (Indigo) Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Plukenetia Volubilis (Sacha Inchi) Seed Oil, Corylus Americana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Seed Oil, Achillea Millefolium (Yarrow) Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina), Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil (Olea Europaea), Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Tanacetum Annum (Blue Tansy) Essential Oil, & Chamomilla Recutita (Blue Chamomile) Flower Oil.

Now that I’ve piqued your interest with some of the lovely Beige Dusk Greys products, let’s meet the maker, Andrea Rogers!  Below is our interview.

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Andrea Rogers: In the spring of 2013 I started tinkering with some DIY recipes for a charcoal mask. I was having some hormonal acne breakouts and was trying anything I could to help it. I really enjoyed making the masks and started experimenting with serums and such and it kind of just grew from there. I was in grad school for 3 of those years, so it was my little hobby I guess you could say, on the side.

 How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

 Andrea Rogers: I think beauty and skincare is so individual that there isn’t a formula or solution that fits all. Because of that, I think that finding and curating a regime that works for you and makes you feel beautiful is important.

What are your biggest goals as a formulator/maker/founder?

 Andrea Rogers: My goals are to make an effective beautiful product. I’m an art person, so pretty things really inspire and move me. I don’t see why beauty products can’t do the same. In some ways, I view my products as functional accessories.

What are your favorite ingredients to work with, and why?

Andrea Rogers: Gosh, that a hard one. I love any beneficial botanicals I can infuse. I love playing with exotic oils, and really anything smelly, like essential oils.

What is your process for creating a new product?

 Andrea Rogers: Usually I come up with a concept, then find the necessary supporting ingredients and began with a basic recipe, and tweak it until it fits my liking. Sometimes though, I will find an ingredient that I love and build a recipe around that ingredient.

Are you self-taught?  Either way, how did you begin and what have you learned along the way?

 Andrea Rogers: I am self-taught. Really there’s so many excellent resources online. And I also have some books for reference. Practice is also an excellent way to learn. Once you know your materials well, it’s easier to predict what will happen. I have notebooks of notes I have taken along the way and that really helps.

What is your approach to preservation?

 Andrea Rogers: Preservation is obviously a must. I don’t use parabens and try and stay away from formaldehyde donors. I have a selection of preservatives that I use and I choose from there the most suitable for the product. I realize this is a touchy subject for some.

If you had to pick a favorite product or two from you line of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

Andrea Rogers: Probably the watermelon & moringa face oil. It’s just so versatile and feels and smells so good.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

Andrea Rogers:  I want people to experience the product as a beautiful object that helps make them feel beautiful.

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

Andrea Rogers: The greatest success is when I have repeat customers that really love the products. I hope that I can continue to grow this business into something bigger and have fun along the way.

You first started experimenting with formulation when you were experiencing some hormonal acne breakouts a few years ago.  What did you ultimately find effective in treating this issue that impacts so many of us?

Andrea Rogers: Honestly, I learned not to over-dry my face.  When the issue is hormonal, topical products can only do so much. Typical acne products dried my skin out, and removing all the oil wasn’t conducive for balance or healing.  I have oily skin, but I’ve learned to embrace it rather than fighting it.

You started formulating during grad school days.  What were you studying?

Andrea Rogers: I was studying studio art. I’m a print maker. I just graduated in May 2016 from a 3-year program.  My Etsy shop had gained some momentum by that point, and now it has taken over most of my time. I spend close to 40 hours/week devoted to running the Etsy shop and formulating. It’s an issue of time management and finding time for studio art.

Can you describe how you moved from making your own skincare to starting your own line?

Andrea Rogers: It was primarily just a hobby at first—skincare and soap.  I had more soap than I could ever use, but there was something so rewarding and soothing about making it. Friends and family loved what I made. They started buying my products, and after a while I expanded to Etsy.  The whole transition happened over a few years.  I wasn’t trying to make money, really; I just wanted to support my addiction to formulating and playing with stuff.  I’ve always been a maker.  I love it; it gives me meaning.

What is your background in art, and how do you think that influences the way you formulate and the overall aesthetic of Beige Dusk Greys?

Andrea Rogers: Being a print maker, you’re very process-oriented, and theres a lot of problem solving involved. Formulation is also very process-driven.  They’re both very aesthetic as well.

You are self-taught as a formulator.  Many consumers want to better educate themselves. When it comes to learning about and understanding individual ingredients, what are your favorite resources that you recommend (whether books, databases, etc.)?

Andrea Rogers: There are a lot of forums online that I’ve found extremely valuable. Also, DIY websites are useful to get a base recipe for something. There’s a supplier database as well, UL Prospector, where I can find out about ingredients.  I spend a lot of time online researching; I’m a thirsty person for information.

In terms of the iterations until a product is satisfactory, it depends. Sometimes I can get it in a few tries. Other products I still haven’t released because I haven’t hit the sweet spot yet after many trials. I spend a good amount of time with products before I try to sell them.

Is Beige Dusk Greys a full-time operation for you?  How have you seen your business grow over the last few years, and do you ever find it difficult to keep up with consumer demand?

Andrea Rogers:  First, it was just a little here and there. When people started responding well to my products, I got more invested, and sales have slowly but steadily grown since then. I’ve learned a lot and grown along with the business.

If someone has your Green Tea Oil Cleanser, Green Cleanse Face Balm, and Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator, how would you advise using each of them in terms of order, frequency, etc?

Andrea Rogers: For me, I like Face Balm at night for removing makeup. Green Tea Oil Cleanser and Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator are lighter and rinse off quickly, so they might be preferable for a time crunch or the morning.

I’m a huge fan of the Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator.  I’ve used so many exfoliators that are unnecessarily harsh and end up irritating skin rather than just gently exfoliating.  How did you manage to get this texture so perfect?   Tell us more about how you developed this.

Andrea Rogers: That took a bit of tweaking. You’d be surprised how much of the formula is actually clay; there’s a lot of body to it.  The smoothness to the texture comes from including the tiniest amount of olive-based wax. I didn’t want it to be too exfoliating, and the oils in the formula add a lubricating element so it’s not too abrasive.

I love both your Watermelon & Moringa Face Oil and the Plum Seed Face Oil.  Both are nourishing and hydrating yet miraculously do not break me out.  You also have another face oil called The Cure.  What do you see as the main differences between these three lovely face oils, and how would you advise someone to choose between them?

Andrea Rogers:  Plum Seed Face Oil is great for dry or mature skin. Watermelon & Moringa Face Oil is soothing with marshmallow extract and prickly pear, a good oil for anyone. Then there is The Cure, which has the lightest texture, but is is good for all skin types. I don’t formulate for a specific skin type. I try to formulate versatile products so it’s more a matter of preference. I’m not trying to cure something with my products, but in general I avoid comedogenic oils and ingredients, because there are so many great alternatives.

Your eye serum is so rich and luscious and extremely hydrating.  What key ingredients make it so effective for the delicate eye area?

Andrea Rogers: It’s probably the rosehip seed oil and the chia seed oil; the consistency of the final product was designed to be like an oily gel.

Can you tell us a little about your masks?

Andrea Rogers: I have a Pumpkin Enzyme Mask that uses pumpkin bioferment as a key ingredient. It’s designed to be a very gentle peel with the consistency of a light lotion. In fact, I designed it to be gentle enough that you can leave it on for anywhere from 10 minutes to overnight, depending on your preference.

The Honey Mask is an oily gel mask, and when I designed it, I wanted to avoid harsher, drying clay-based masks.

The Milk Jelly Mask is designed to be moisturizing and to feel good when you rinse it off.

What are your best sellers?

Andrea Rogers: Any of the face oils tend to be best sellers; when I formulate those, I want them to feel good, and there’s a variety for different preferences in terms of the texture from light to luxurious.  Also, the Face Balm is often a repeat order once people try it.

What’s the most surprising thing about running your business been so far?

Andrea Rogers: Right now I’m trying to get my line more established. Once I get that taken care of, and it’s getting there, I’m realizing that a lot of the work is not creating but actually running the business side of things.  In terms of getting more established, I haven’t started promoting Beige Dusk Greys much yet. People discover me and reach out, and it’s also been word of mouth.

There are so many people doing what I do that, for me, the investment is in repeat customers.  Between customer service (e.g., custom orders) and products, I’m focused on maintaining as much repeat business as possible.

There’s a rewarding aspect to it as well. Beige Dusk Greys is a way for me to celebrate a love for pretty things; I want the skincare to display nicely and, in a way, serve as functional accessories.  I think people are drawn to Beige Dusk Greys because they want to have things that are handmade and specific to them.

The post Beige Dusk Greys Founder Andrea Rogers on Finding Artistry in Formulation appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Every now and then, I encounter a formulator so exacting and talented that I would (and will) beg to try anything they create, even sight unseen, simply because I am in awe of their artistry.  Such is the case with Janice Buu, the founder of Kana Skincare and chief formulator of its out-of-this-world Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask.  I was so impressed that I had to interview Ms. Buu, and she graciously agreed.  Now, without further ado, I am thrilled to introduce you to . . .

Janice Buu, the Visionary Founder of Kana Skincare

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Janice Buu (JB):  I was looking for natural hemp products for my father during the recovery of his bypass surgery a few years ago. I researched a lot but did not find many products that I liked in the natural skincare industry. I come from a background of health and sciences, so I quickly became interested in the subject of natural skincare formulations and decided to make my own for those who also believe in plant-based sciences.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

JB: Beauty presents itself when we balance our health + nutrition mentally, physically, and spiritually. I am a firm believer in total plant-based philosophy! It is the most natural way to treat, enhance, and boost what our body needs while being environmentally friendly.

Where did you get the idea/inspiration for Kana Skincare?

JB: I am American born-Chinese Korean. My mother was born and raised in Korea, hence the strong Korean culture influence on me. She has always made her own facial “masks” with things she pulls out of the fridge. I watched her by the kitchen counter cutting up cucumber slices, mixing yogurt with honey. She even washed her hair with beer! (This is almost 30 years ago!) We would put the cucumber slices all over our faces, eyes, and eat the extras that were left on the plate while chatting away at night. So as you can tell, I grew up with different views of skincare compared to my peers. My friends’ moms went to the mall and bought the newest products introduced by sales reps. It wasn’t till I was older then I realized why she always stuck by natural skincare and if she couldn’t find them, she would make them – because she had extra sensitive skin.

Combined with my research on hemp a few years ago, I thought it would be perfect to marry the two -Hemp CBD + natural Korean skincare formulations/recipes. At Kana, we test everything on myself first, before employees, before friends and family, etc.

For our first product, I am recreating the fun, bonding experience of face masking for mothers and daughters, hence our first product is the Hemp CBD infused Sleeping Mask, except 30 years later, I made a jar full of 28 active botanicals with all natural skincare formulation + aroma.

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

Tell us a little bit about the magic of CBD as a skincare ingredient.  How did you discover its potential?

JB:  CBD is a magical ingredient that treats eczema, sensitive skin while giving it vitamin A, E, C, and amino acids. It also has strong anti-inflammatory properties, making it great for soothing/relaxing agent.

The first time I tried CBD was when I was testing out a new batch of pearl powder. I mixed some CBD, pearl powder, milk, and raw honey downstairs on my kitchen counter and applied it as a face mask, washed it off after 20 minutes and as always, it felt really good! It wasn’t when I woke up the next day, I found the overnight brightening effect, super smooth skin, and I glowed for days after, even my blemishes were reduced. So I started researching on each ingredient and separating them to test on my skin to see what it was that gave me such magical overnight effect. It was CBD!

Can you describe the process/journey behind creating Kana Skincare Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask, taking it from vision to reality?

 JB:  The sleeping mask R&D alone took about 1.5 years. It probably could have been shortened to a year, but once we got all active botanicals to sync and it worked exactly as we envisioned, then I was very picky on the consistency, texture, color, and aroma. All ingredients must be organic and/or natural, including the production process. If it wasn’t perfect, I wasn’t going to release it. Someone even joked, “Janice is not going to approve it till 2020.” I think I drove the team crazy at one point, hahah.

There was definitely a LOT of trial and error. Ideas, vision, business plans, strategies are always just different parts of the outline. Ideas form better as we practice it more and more.

Can you describe some of the cultural attitudes you have encountered, both here in the US and in Korea, to CBD?  Have these attitudes/misconceptions been hurdles for launching your product in either place and if yes, how so?

JB:  CBD is still a new ingredient in the US. I definitely think we need more education on proper use of CBD and how it may benefit us in health + beauty. It is gaining its popularity quickly on the west coast and moving to the east. CBD is only allowed for research purposes in Korea as of right now.

You have blended CBD with 28 other botanical ingredients to the effect of a hydrating, anti-inflammatory masterpiece.  What things were you going for when you selected the many various ingredients?

JB:  I was going for anti-aging and natural brightening/glowing look, so lots of anti-inflammatory agents, cell regenerating boosts, wrinkle fighters!

Why did you want to create a sleeping mask specifically?

JB:  When we sleep, our body is working hard to repair and heal us from within. So I wanted to take advantage of this and put the body to work along with these active botanicals. I travel and fly around a lot. Our bodies are dehydrated, and we break out. Although sheet masks are fun and helpful at times, it’s definitely not for someone who’s on a tight schedule. Many times, I would accidentally fall asleep with sheet masks left on my face, after a long day of meetings! Only to wake up to my sensitive skin crying for help, seeing the rash, breakouts, patches of my skin would be flakey for days after. Then I thought, if I want to mask, I want to be able to fully relax, I don’t want to wake up in 20 minutes just to take off this mask, then apply the rest of my skincare routine, then go to bed. Why can’t I just sleep with a mask?!

Although I love sheet masks, it’s a fun activity to do with your girlfriends and last minute solutions to that wedding invitation you have in a few hours!

(I see a lot of travelers and even skincare companies advertise sheet masking on the plane. It is a horrible idea, and any reputable aesthetician would be able to tell you, that they will not give you a facial in the dumpster!)

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

Everyone who tries Kana will find themselves falling in love with nature, and all things natural. The aroma of the sleeping mask puts all the beauties to sleep on a field of lavenders. They will wake up feeling refreshed with a natural glow. Aromatherapy is practiced in all of our products so the beauties can achieve mental + physical health/beauty all in one step.

Efficiency. We live in a fast-paced society where we demand results and minimalism. Kana shortens skincare routines, provides proven and efficient results.

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

We have customers returning to purchase more masks for their mothers, friends, and themselves. Great reviews from press & beauty bloggers, editors all over the world. We are about to release our CBD + EGF active botanical essence in 2 weeks! There are people already pre-ordering without even testing essence samples! I am very thankful for the love and trust of people who believe in Kana. I hope countries that have not yet legalized CBD can take a step forward and look into the benefits of CBD and how it may benefit us all, especially patients. Kana will continue to create amazing health + beauty products that enhance the lives of our people.

Do you have more products in mind?  Can you give us any hints of what is to come?

JB:  Yes! We have some formulas currently in development and in the final human-testing stage, next release is EGF + CBD infused active botanical essence (28 active botanicals)! This is going to be a super fun addition for the beauties to use in their skincare routine, or to replace their existing serum with.

EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) makes a great partner with CBD because they are both healers. EGF is found in our body since birth, however, it diminishes as we grow older (in our 20’s! don’t want to believe this… but it’s true.). Without EGF, our skin elasticity would be loose! So I thought the two can partner up and help us! EGF can focus on regeneration of the cells, fight wrinkles, while CBD soothes us, packs our skin with vitamins + amino acids, and heals any inflammation!

Now Available!  Just-Released Kana Skincare CBD + EGF Active Botanical Essence

Kana Skincare’s Recently Introduced CBD + EGF Active Botanical Essence

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

The post Meet the Visionary Formulator and Founder of Kana Skincare appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Iremia Skincare Founder Elaine Li

After having the pleasure of trying and enjoying Iremia Skincare Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil (see full review here), I was delighted to have the opportunity to interview Iremia Skincare Founder Elaine Li about her journey and mission.  Ms. Li struggled with sensitive skin for years and was unable to find anything on the market that gently, effectively healed her skin, so she set out to create the ultimate skin-soothing line in Iremia Skincare.  Learn more about her process and inspiration below!

Can you briefly describe your own skin difficulties and the frustrations you encountered trying to find sufficiently high-quality and soothing products in other lines?

Elaine Li (EL): I have suffered from skin problems for as long as I can remember. Looking back, it really was because of diet and stress but I didn’t connect the dots. Eczema, hypersensitivities, and redness are my main culprits. Every time I feel anxiety or stress or if I eat certain foods, my face turns hot and red. My eczema flairs up and itches like crazy. I remember trying different creams that were catered “for sensitive skin”, but as I put them on they would burn my skin and I had to quickly wash them off. Some other high-end creams that I have tried made me feel like it was doing something, but it really wasn’t. I would break out, or the product just wouldn’t be effective after a while. It was really frustrating not being able to find something that would help manage my skin.

Another frustration that came about was around transparency. Just two years ago, a natural, steroid-free cream came out just for eczema. It was a dream come true for myself and my son based on all of the before and after photos I saw of people using it on their babies. I naturally purchased it and it did work wonders. However, it turns out that it really wasn’t steroid-free! I felt betrayed. I’m all for transparency and integrity when it comes to what goes in and on your body. I never want this to happy to anyone, ever.  So now I use my own Protective Cream and Facial Oil on my son and newborn!

How do you think your own history of skin challenges have influenced you as a formulator and enhanced your formulations?

EL:  I want to create products with intent. If I don’t have a clear vision as to what it needs to do or how it can help someone, I won’t make it. There needs to be some sort of multi-purpose element to it as I’m a believer in simplifying your routine so that there is less clutter. Less clutter = less stress and less waste! My skin challenges are ongoing. Elements of your life (Diet, home life, work) are always changing so it was important to create something that can be used according to your situation. The products can be layered however you want. On some days, I use the Facial Oil on my face and hair. On others, I layer all three of them for extra hydration. I wanted my formulas to also be safe for my babies, and my husband! It was frustrating finding something that the whole family could use. My children use the Protective Cream and Facial Oil and my husband uses the Soothing Lotion.

Iremia Skincare Soothing Lotion

What care and effort have you put into ingredient sourcing?

EL: All ingredients were thoroughly researched and need to obviously be completely natural. I look for purity as well if it can directly help calm the skin. My second priority (besides hydration of course) is to look for other benefits, such as anti-aging properties. For example,  I decided to include a natural anti-aging active ingredient in the Soothing Lotion for it to truly be multipurpose (i.e., African Mahogany Tree Bark Extract). It’s something I use every day on my skin and I have seen huge improvements in redness, pore and wrinkle reduction.

Can you describe some of the time, study, effort, and experimentation that went into creating your beautiful Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil?

EL: I have been struggling with my skin since my early 20’s, so it’s taken me a long, long time to get to this point. Years of trying different products, writing down what I like, what I don’t like, what worked, what didn’t really helped me decide what ingredients to put into the formula. A lot of reading was done around active ingredients as well as digging into research papers and clinical studies. I decided to formulate starting in late 2016. It took a few months, but finally, I created the recipe that worked in the Spring/Summer of 2017.

You describe a less-is-more philosophy to skincare regimens.  Can you elaborate on the importance and value of quality over quantity and explain how you embrace this philosophy with Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil?

EL:  This philosophy resonates with me in so many ways. It really started at home and with being more conscious about what and how we buy everyday items. I don’t want to purchase something that is inexpensive but will fall apart in 2 years. You end up buying more, which has a bigger impact on the environment. Buying and using products consciously is important to me. Same with time. I have a 6-year-old son and a 4-month-old daughter, plus 2 dogs! So I don’t have a lot of time to fuss around in the mornings and evenings. Creating products that would help me without using 7+ items was as important as the environmental impact. The Soothing Lotion has everything I need in it – it calms, soothes, hydrates and decreases fine lines and wrinkles. The Restorative Facial Oil also has all of the superhero oils I wanted in one bottle. The best part is that it can also be used in your hair. I also use it on my baby and keep it on me all the time.

Which 3-4 active ingredients in each product do you consider highlights and/or particularly vital and beneficial when it comes to Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil, and why?

EL: The Soothing Lotion has a blend of Shea Butter, Aloe, Calendula, Lavender and Manuka Honey. It’s so hard to choose, as they are all vital and beneficial for the skin. Each one has soothing, anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties, which is why I wanted them all in the Soothing Lotion. The best part is the African Mahogany Tree Bark extract, which is clinically proven to strengthen the skin and reduce wrinkles after 56 days of use.

With the Restorative Facial Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Rosehip Oil, Argan Oil and Seabuckthorn Oil are all vital within the blend. There are 11 oils in total to make up this multivitamin, all of which provide the skin strength. It soothes and balances while increasing elasticity and helps diminish scarring.

Iremia Skincare Restorative Facial Oil

What experience do you hope people will have with Soothing Lotion?  With Restorative Facial Oil?

EL:  The Soothing Lotion was made to calm the skin whenever there is redness or flare-ups or inflammation and heat on the face. It can also be used on eczema patches as well. Even if you don’t have flare-ups, it glides on as a beautiful daily moisturizer. With a powerful blend of luxurious ingredients, the Restorative Facial Oil will leave your skin feeling soft, plump and hydrated. With no added fragrance, you are experiencing the natural properties of the ingredients. Since the whole line is around calmness, I truly hope people will find that in my products.

What current trends or pressures in the beauty industry frustrate you and which ones excite you, and why?

EL: I do feel that there is pressure for people to have “perfect”, flawless skin. I believe that we have been conditioned to think that skin is supposed to look a certain way. Everyone is so different, with variety when it comes to lifestyle, diet, stress inducers. No one is perfect as we are only human! Things change, especially with age. I believe in healthy skin, and that starts from within. Treat your body with love, and you can embrace your skin as is at whatever moment you are in. Another frustration is the pressure to have immediate results with products. I also had very high expectations of the different creams I have tried in the past and expected my skin to take to it and to be amazing right away. We again have developed a sense of immediate gratification (I blame this on technology!). I don’t believe there is a “miracle” product. Products take time to work, and your body takes time to adjust. There are just too many factors at play.

What is exciting is that there has been a shift in mindset to embrace what you were born with. For myself, it has taken years to get here. To really love me for the way I am. It’s also exciting that people are open to smaller brands and more Indie brands are moving into the spotlight. They come from a place of passion, and I find it really refreshing!

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

EL:  As a small Indie brand, I thrive and focus on small successes. However, I’m proud of the product and what it has done for the people who have tried it. I take each review seriously and every purchase with such a grateful heart. There are plans for the future with expanding the product line, with intention of course, as well as looking into different distribution channels. I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. For now, I’m just so grateful for my supporters.

The post Interview with Iremia Skincare Founder Elaine Li appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

 I had the delight and privilege of interviewing Dominique Harris, maker of the exquisite, family-run, holistic skin care line The Bohemian Collection (please see my Bohemian Collection review here to find out about a few of their most tempting skin treats) as well as the well-loved natural hair-care line Natty Naturals.  Throughout our interview and in subsequent correspondence, Ms. Harris blew me away with her in-depth knowledge of–and her deep passion for–natural ingredients and green living.  She views skin care as a holistic extension of self-care, and one that ideally encompasses body, mind, and spirit. Together, Ms. Harris and her husband Syeed handcraft every small batch of their artisanal hair- and skin-care lines with mindful, positive energy, and they have turned down lucrative wholesale opportunities–such as a mass retail opportunity with Target–in order to stay true to their core vision and mission.  As Dominique has said, “Being mindful of what we eat, what we drink, what we value, all play a part in how we live. We are more than a handcrafted apothecary and green beauty brand, we are a community..we are a vision..we are a lifestyle.”  Without further ado, I present The Bohemian Collection Interview, a conversation maker and green beauty pioneer Dominique Harris.

Dominique and Syeed Harris of The Bohemian Collective and Natty Naturals

Positivity is infused into everything you make.  Have you always been this inspired and positive?  What do you do as a family and/or individually to sustain this incredible outlook and attitude?

As much as I would love to think so, positivity was not always at the forefront. There was a time when I was a bit narcissistic so that in itself can be a very negative selfish character flaw. With time, a desire to grow in maturity and wisdom and with being a wife and mom, I had to learn to let go of self-centeredness and embrace working as a team for a healthy family unit. Positivity is a daily work in progress, and with each day that we learn and grow, we embrace how to make mistakes, dust them off and hopefully learn from them.

Oh gosh, as I mentioned, it’s a daily workout, lol. Working the mind to focus more on positive living, or rather embracing the understanding that problems will occur, it’s how we handle those problems that aid in our growth as a whole healthy person. My husband was extremely and is extremely helpful in assisting in growth…we hold each other accountable, and that’s extremely important to keep the ego in check. Our children also help. We know, as parents, we have a responsibility of accountability. They learn by our actions, so we are always reminded of our accountability. When we make mistakes, we talk very openly and honestly with our children. We teach them, particularly the older 2 (11 and 8 years old) about energy..about accepting responsibility for actions and learning and growing from mistakes.

How did you initially come up with the concoction that started it all and healed your son’s painful scalp infection?

In terms of the Kerion that my son had, I was getting the run around from the ole docs, so as a last resort, I began researching…not only was it through my research that I learned that he had kerion ( the doctors kept saying it was a ringworm fungus, however, kerion is when the body has a type of allergic reaction to a fungus that causes it), I began researching natural remedies and studying natural ingredients and this is what sparked my love of all things herbal, homeopathic, natural and holistic.

The Bohemian Collection Fields of Glory Herbal Steam

How did you transition from making natural products for your family to starting a business?

Right after I had my 3^rd child, I was homeschooling my two older sons as well as a cousin who was the same age as my oldest while my husband was in restaurant management, so with homeschooling, my love of natural ingredients began to grow even more and that love sparked a desire to begin making products for my family that I was not seeing in the stores. My outside family members and my husband’s coworkers were falling in love with our first product, Natty Butter (now known as Hair + Body Butter) and since I was home already, I began to research more and more about ingredients, educating others with via Facebook on the benefits of natural ingredients and herbal living, reading herbal books, books on essential oils and their safety, etc. and from there, I began the process of beginning our business, All Things O’Natural.

 Can you tell us about Natty Butter and what makes it special?

Natty Butter, oh man, it’s the creamiest triple whipped butter ever! My husband actually artisanally handcrafts our butter now and he has truly perfected how to make it like a whipped cream..so fluffy and light. It contains organic cold pressed oils, shea butter and a blend of essential oils. It is literally, hands down, our most sold product, ever! It melts instantly upon contact and aids in locking moisture into the hair and skin while smoothing the skin and softening the hair.

How would you describe your beauty and skin care philosophies?

To me, beauty is a spiritual blessing. It’s of the surface and beyond the surface at the same time. It’s our soul and our spirit..body and mind. My belief is that is should be an enjoyable sacred practice of self-care. The world, many times, has reduced it to physical, but it is also mental and spiritual. When I indulge in a regimen, I give thanks for the ingredients, for the hands that harvested and for the hands that created the products. This is what I strive so hard to help others understand…beauty is self-care..self-care is holistic…it’s a team of greatness that includes the mind, body, and spirit. I take self-care very serious because I have to work so hard to slow down and embrace the beauty of slow living..so I have to be mindful and aware and present. Skincare is holistic in itself..it’s listening to the body and the mind because they both affect our exterior, which is our largest organ, the skin. Our skin tells us what’s going on inside of our physical bodies as well as if our emotional and spiritual energy is unbalanced. Our bodies are so amazing, if only we listen to it.

The lovely Dominique Harris of the Bohemian Collection

Education is a big component of your mission.  When it comes to sharing your knowledge, what topics are you most passionate about, and what do you most want people to know?

You are so correct–education is so important. It is a freedom that is one of the most beautiful powerhouses. I get so passionate when I can learn, talk and educate on homeopathy and holistic living. I can talk about it for hours ( I have talked my husband to sleep, lol…literally). I’m also passionate about self-care because, as I stated earlier, it is part of holistic living..and many times, in today’s society, especially in Western culture, we are not encouraged to slow down..embrace the now..be present, but the opposite..work, work, work, stress, stress, stress..work harder, not smarter..this type of encouragement is the antagonist to self-care…and unfortunately, it causes many to feel guilty for taking a moment to be present, in the moment.

What are your biggest goals as a formulator/maker/founder?

I think one of my biggest goals is to help many understand the beauty of our natural earth and all of the goodness that is bound upon it. To understand how our energy is symbiotic with its energy.

You and your husband are business partners and advocates of spicy marriage.  How do you keep your marriage strong?

Wow, I could go on and on about how to keep a marriage strong, and honestly, I would be just saying a bunch of words…Meaning, we are learning as we grow. We utilize basic foundational principles: respect, honor, communication, accountability, responsibility, selflessness, etc. My husband has said to me many many times, “The greatest leader is the biggest servant and one of my duties is to be one of the greatest servants to Our Creator and my wife and children.” I try to be mindful of that principle, and that’s such a huge sacrifice. We encourage our supporters to be easy, relax, go out on dates, do the same things you did when courting and keep doors closed…. By that last statement, I mean, don’t allow outside influences (family, friends, coworkers, etc.) to interfere with your marriage bond…don’t put yourself in a situation that could cast doubt within your marriage. Having a marriage vision is one of the Most important tools in a union. We talk loads about this because one of the worst things is to marry someone and realize your visions for marriage and family are not aligned. So for us, it’s the basics.

Dominique and Syeed Harris

What role do your kids and parenting play in your business?

With our business, how we operate daily is based on how it works within our family unit..again, understanding that we are a team. We have turned down opportunities to be in certain stores such as Target because it would have been just too much on our family dynamic and that’s truly not the vision I had for this business. From when we formulate product, which is weekly, to our ship out days, which is every Tuesday and Thursday mostly, lately it’s been daily, down to taking Fridays completely off from work; it all depended upon how it operates within our particular family dynamic.

What are your favorite ingredients to work with, and why?

I absolutely LOVE working with herbs and essential oils. I love how concentrated essential oils can be and how amazing they work with our physical makeup. I love their molecular makeup, their aroma, their potency, their volatility, their ability to aid in healing, cleansing, clearing, uplifting and so much more. I absolutely love them. Herbs are so amazing because I can infuse them, extract them, make poultices, create decoctions, cook with them, burn them and so much more.

What is your process for creating a new product?

My process for creating a new product is big time, big time research and development. That takes a lot of time, money and experimentation. It’s best to understand what ingredients work together and which can be dangerous or toxic if combined. Understand ratios of ingredients, how they hold up in certain temperatures and environmental conditions. How they work on varying skin conditions, how safe they are for children, how long they preserve for, how quick or long before turning rancid, the type of container that each product will be housed in, how much each ingredient costs, if ingredients are similar and which works better for what purpose. There’s so so much that goes into formulating a new product, which is why it usually takes me about 8 months to a year, sometimes 2 or 3 years to introduce a new product.

The Bohemian Collection Rosehip Facial Serum

Are you self-taught?  Either way, how did you begin and what have you learned along the way?

I am semi self-taught, but learned quite a bit from my grandmother who was huge into skin care..she has flawless skin, and she’s 84 years old. My great-grandmother used to forage, so I would say my love for all things natural was inspired by those beauties. I love to research. I’m a huge ‘why’ person… I question almost everything. If something works great together, I usually want to understand why… if it doesn’t, why…. Why some ingredients preserve longer and some do not..how some ingredients need no preservation at all, etc. A ton of ‘why’ goes into much of my crafting a product… I ask, ‘Does it make sense?’…is it simply something that I’m creating just to introduce a new product, or does it truly make sense….does it align with our current products and why or why not…so much thought.

 What is your approach to preservation?

My approach to preservation is simple..if there is a water-based substance in the mix, preserve it. There are both synthetic as well as natural occurring preservatives. If the product does not contain water, aloe, hydrosols or the like, such as dry masks, preservatives are a bit less needed. There’s so much misconception about preservation and what are true preservatives. Liquids should use a preservative…. Oils should use an antioxidant…. Clays can last awhile; however, a crafter should be mindful of the type of container they will use and ask the questions, ‘Will the customer apply this with wet hands?’ ‘Will the customer pour or scoop?’ etc…all of this thought should go into creating a product.

The Bohemian Collection Rajati Enzyme Mask

What did it mean to you to be widely recognized for your lines’ achievements [e.g., named as one of 9 Incredible Black Owned Natural Hair Businesses by Black Girl with Long Hair (BGLH), voted a top Instagram account by Essence Magazine Online, and featured in Parent’s Magazine in April 2016]? 

I was truly, truly honored to be featured on BGLH (Black Girl With Long Hair) as one of the top 9 Black Owned Businesses because when it comes to green beauty, many Black owned brands are not really featured or introduced, leading many to lack the knowledge that we exist. With so many of the larger more prominently featured brands, it’s rare that women of color are featured in their selection of features on their social media page or website, save brands such as Josh Rosebrook, who I had the pleasure of chatting about this very thing via Instagram. I love what he is doing with his brand and how he doesn’t simply speak about diversity inclusion, but actually puts his words into action. I don’t truly see that with many of the green beauty brands. So, I’m always excited to see brands such as Okoko Cosmetiques and Siam Seas, Concept FortySeven, The Balm Co, women of color who are passionate about green beauty. With the lack of featured Black owned brands or brands owned by people of color, it creates a lack of interest in much of the Black community, so we, as women of color, as green beauty brand owners must work twice as hard to ensure that we are letting the public know we exist and are just as passionate, sometimes if not more, and with features such as BGLH, Essence and Parents Magazine, it’s a step in aiding us in that struggle. So, I’m always, always honored to be featured on any blog and surprisingly, we’ve had quite a few write about our products.

How did you decide to expand and create the Bohemian Collection?

The Bohemian Collection is the alter ego of the Natty Naturals collection. Natty Naturals first began as a focus on hair care for the natural hair community, although it is also used by beauties of all ethnicities, hair types, ages and both genders. The Bohemian Collection was a concentrated focus on the whole self, the skin care, bath and body, oral health, etc… It embraces the diversity of ingredients as diverse as our customer base. It’s a part of my energy as a whole.

The Bohemian Collection Kijani Green Goddess Beauty Balm

If you had to pick a favorite product or two of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

Yikes, this is a hard one… I would say some of my faves, and I’ll narrow it down to 3, are: Hair + Scalp Rinse (because it lightly cleanses, aids in removing product buildup, aids in closing the cuticle for smoother shinier hair and aids in preventing buildup on the scalp), Natty Butter Hair + Body Butter (I love everything about it..it’s a multi purpose product that is simply amazing), Cacao Clay Cleanse (I love making it, smelling it, applying it, enjoying it and love how my skin feels afterwards)..if I had a 4^th, it would be either the Kijani Beauty Balm or Rosehip Facial Serum ( I love dry oil cleansing with them and applying them to my damp hair and skin).

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

I truly, truly, truly want people to experience what I experience with our products. I take so much time and thought and put a ton of energy into creating and crafting them, and I want them to experience all of that passion and love. I love, love, love when customers say things such as, ‘I had a headache or stressful day, and when I used your products, it made my head feel so much better or alleviated the stress.’ I want them to feel that symbiotic connection of earth energy and our spirit energy. Using my products make me feel so so happy, and I truly want that for each and every customer…even if they don’t understand why.

What do you see as the greatest success of your line(s) so far and what are your hopes for the future?

Honestly, I’ve already experienced the success. For the past 6 years, my husband and I have not had to work for anyone else outside of our business, we’ve purchased a new home and are sustaining a family of 6 with a business that we started..that, to me, is already a success story. It has taught me so much about myself, how to work as a team and family unit with a business. I’ve made some great connections and met some great people. I’ve learned so so much and am continuing to learn and grow..we have a healthy marriage, healthy and joyful children who get to see their parents operating a business daily…that, to me, is success in itself.

Bohemian Collection Pink Himalayan Salt Bath

The post Sacred Self-Care: Meet Dominique Harris of The Bohemian Collection appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Apoterra Skincare is a small, holistic apothecary that is dedicated to providing cruelty-free skin care that is sustainable and handcrafted in a transparent way.  Founder Dominique Caron is a certified herbalist and aromatherapist, and she was inspired to start Apoterra Skincare after hopelessly struggling to find natural, affordable skin care that was effective for her sensitive and acne-prone skin. Ms. Caron brings a unique perspective to this underserved skin type, and she shares some of her impressive expertise in a series of informative articles on Naturally Healing Acne on the Apoterra Blog (very much worth reading!). Apoterra Skincare is Leaping Bunny certified cruelty-free, 90% of ingredients are certified organic or sustainably wildcrafted, and all Apoterra Skincare ingredients are rated extremely safe (1 or less) on the EWG Database. Moreover, each Apoterra Skincare product has a hand-stamped batch # that can be used to find the product’s date of production and ingredients’ certification and countries of origin.  Apoterra Skincare is a special line, and I was delighted when Ms. Caron agreed to an interview.

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Curiosity!  I first became interested in botanical medicine, meaning making my own tinctures, syrups, and teas for digestive health, colds, and other minor ailments.  I read as much as I could get my hands on about the subject and ultimately started taking courses about herbalism, aromatherapy, botany, and human biology.  I became a certified aromatherapist after really falling in love with working with essential oils. There is a chemistry aspect to blending with essential oils which I love because it gives you the ability to blend based on scientific data.  But there is also an intuitive part when it comes to creating scents and effective emotion which I also love.   Once I started incorporating my knowledge of aromatherapy, herbalism, and skin care into formulating my own skincare products, that is when I really found my calling!

How would you describe your beauty and skin care philosophies?

I like to think of beauty and skin care as part of our health and self-care practices.  To me, beauty is about more than just what you put on your skin, but also about the health of your mind and body.  I formulate with this idea in mind – I look at skin care in a holistic way and formulate using ingredients that work with the body to bring it back to a healthy balance.  This means considering the reason behind why your skin might be breaking out or dealing with inflammation, and addressing these issues by helping your skin heal itself, versus just dealing with the symptoms.

What are your biggest goals as a formulator/maker?

I love creating products that not only solve someone’s skin care issues (such as acne), but that also help one feel good about themselves by elevating their personal care ritual.  A product that works, but also smells and feels amazing is what I always strive for.  Sometimes it can be difficult when working with natural ingredients, as some ingredients that are great for the skin don’t always look or smell amazing!  Finding a way to achieve both is part of the challenge.

What is your process for creating a new Apoterra Skincare product?

I start with an idea.  Whether it be a specific type of product, an ingredient I want to use, a problem that needs to be solved, or a scent that I love. . . I start from there for inspiration.  Once I have a starting point, I actually spend a good amount of time doing research before ever going into the lab.  I look up research papers on ingredients, the chemical composition of new oils I want to work with, try to find evidence about the effectiveness of certain ingredients, etc.   Based on my concept and research, I create a recipe for the product I want to make and then head to the lab to create it.  I then test it and adjust the recipe over several versions to make the effectiveness, texture, color, scent, and experience are just what I want it to be.

If you had to pick a favorite product or two from your line of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

I really love our Neroli Clarifying Toner.  The aroma is really calming to me, and it works so well for me as far as preventing breakouts and keeping my complexion clear.  It hydrates but also delivers acne-fighting and free radical-fighting ingredients such as green tea, vitamin C, and vitamin B3.  I also really love our Night Regenerative Balm.  This is my go-to whenever my skin needs a little extra repair due to sun exposure, dehydration or cold exposure.  Of all our products, the balm is the one I get the most people reaching out to me telling me it was a “game changer” for them!  I combined a really amazing butter, cupuacu (can hold up to 400% of its weight in water!), with nutrient-dense oils and collagen boosting actives like vitamin C and coQ10 – so this balm is a performer!

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

I want people really to look forward to using my products.  I hope that when they use them, it helps them find a moment of peace in the day that lets them they feel pampered and beautiful.  I also want my products to keep my customer’s skin healthy so that they can experience a natural glow that makes them feel good about themselves!

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

My greatest success for me is all the positive feedback I get from customers.  Every week we get customers writing new reviews on our website, and so many of them are success stories of people being really happy with their results.  These stories are the reason I do what I do!

I’ve read that you have extremely sensitive skin that is dry and breaks out easily.  This describes my skin type as well, and this cluster of challenges is not often addressed simultaneously. What are the most important things you’ve learned about caring for your skin type?

For the longest time, I had dry, flaky skin and breakouts on my chin ALL THE TIME.  It was so frustrating!  Every product I tried seemed to make me break out or become red.  What I have discovered is that there is a lot of misinformation out there about acne and dry skin, and I realized over time that the reason my skin was the way it was, was in fact because of the products I was using.  You often see acne being associated with oily skin.  The truth is that acne can be caused by both oily or dry skin.

Without going too in-depth here – Acne is caused by clogged pores and bad bacteria.  If you have dry skin, your sebaceous glands can try to compensate by overproducing sebum which can clog pores and create an environment that P. Acnes, the acne causing bacteria, will thrive in.  When you have dry skin, you also deal with excessive dead skin cells, which can also clog pores.  For this reason, the traditional advice of vigorous cleansing and using “drying” products on the skin to clear acne don’t work and actually make things worse.  Drying the skin and over cleansing doesn’t keep pores clear, but it does dry the skin and cause barrier damage.  What your skin needs is nourishment, hydration, and gentle exfoliation.  You don’t get acne because you aren’t cleansing enough.  You are getting acne because either you glands are producing too much oil, your pores are clogged because you’re not exfoliating enough, you have skin barrier damage, and/or your skin’s microbiome has been compromised, and the healthy bacteria on your skin is not there to fight off the acne-causing bacteria.  I have a 5-part series on acne on our blog that goes into this more in depth, but the takeaway is:

• don’t over cleanse.  Skip a foaming cleanser in the morning and use a gentle toner or hydrosol blend instead (or an oil cleanser)
• make sure you are properly hydrating the skin with a water-based product
• make sure you are moisturizing with the right oils
• Exfoliate a few times a week. Exfoliation should be gentle and non-abrasive
• Don’t use strong antibacterial topical treatments that can disrupt your microbiome
• Don’t use any products that make your skin feel tight and dry.

Can you explain your understanding the importance of finding a balance with exfoliation and not overdoing it, particularly for individuals with sensitive skin and acne?  In general, what would you advise in terms of the best approach(es) and frequency for exfoliation?

Exfoliation is important to keep pores clear, but over-exfoliation can cause damage to your skin barrier.  To be effective, exfoliation can be very gentle and doesn’t have to be abrasive at all! It shouldn’t leave your skin looking too red or feeling raw.  I would say stay away from abrasive physical exfoliants and stick to gentle chemical exfoliants.  This can be something like what I use in our Hibiscus Exfoliating Mud with is a blend of fruit, sugar, and yogurt which exfoliates with natural sources of fruit acids and lactic acid.

How can an impaired skin barrier worsen inflammation, and what tips do you have for maintaining optimal barrier function without worsening acne?

An impaired skin barrier means that your skin cannot defend itself properly, but is also means it will have difficulty retaining water.  This means that your skin will be dehydrated, but also be more prone to infections such as acne.  Without proper hydration, it makes it more difficult for your skin to protect and repair itself.  Ideally, topically applying plant oils and butters that are effective emollients and provide a breathable occlusive layer, combined with plant extracts and essential oils that have strong anti-inflammatory properties will be effective in helping your skin repair itself.  Sometimes people worry about using plant butters and oils because they have acne, but they shouldn’t!  The key is to use the right kind of oil for acne prone skin that are also effective emollients and help repair the skin.

A note about essential oils – I have been getting a lot of questions about the safety and effectiveness of essential oils.  The importance when using essential oils is that you need to use the proper % – too much can aggravate the skin.  I like to compare EOs to salt.  A little bit on your food is good for you and makes your food taste good, but add too much, and the salt might have a negative effect on your health.  Try to eat a few tablespoons at once, and you might die!  Saying a blanket statement that all essential oils are bad for the skin is like saying that salt is dangerous because it can kill you.  It is not a black and white issue; there is a lot of nuance to the way you use essential oils. When used properly, essential oils can be very beneficial to your skin and health.

Can you tell us about any upcoming launches?

I have some new product launches that I hope to release this fall!  I have been working on new PH balanced and microbiome friendly cleansers and also some new mood enhancing scents for some body care products.

How do barrier function and the acid mantle play into dry skin with breakouts, and how do your products address this?

If your barrier is impaired, or acid mantle is disturbed by products that are too acidic or too alkaline, your skin will have to work to repair and rebalance itself.  Remember – acne is a bacterial infection.  If your skin barrier or acid mantle is impaired, it will be more difficult for your skin to fight off the bad bacteria.  By using products that provide your skin with hydration and moisturization in a way that does not disrupt your acid mantle and promotes a healthy skin barrier, you are helping your skin return to and maintain a healthy balance.  A healthy balance means clear, hydrated skin.    All our facial oils, toners and masks help your skin do exactly that, without disrupting the acid mantle.

How can those of us prone to breakouts use oils intelligently?

The thing about oils is they are not all created equal.  Oils high in oleic acid, like olive oil, can aggravate acne.  Oils rich in linoleic acid, however, are really great for acne-prone skin.  You can incorporate oils into your routine as much as any other skin type, but the key is the use the right oils.  My blue (clarify) line is designed for breakout prone skin with oils that are rich in linoleic acid and nourish the skin in a way that is ideal for acne-prone skin.

The Apoterra blog is amazing, and I highly recommend everyone take a look at it.  I love that the information and advice you share is truly evidence-based (for examples, see the amazing links in the first article of an amazing series on treating acne naturally).  How do you find your citations, and what do you do to stay abreast of the literature?

Thank you!  I really appreciate that.  Honestly, I do a lot of online research.  I find articles that address what I want to learn more about and look through their citations. From there I just keep digging deeper and deeper until I find the evidence-based data I am looking for.  I never take information from a blog or magazine as fact – but instead always search for peer-reviewed articles relating to what I am researching.  There is so much misinformation out there; you really can’t believe a lot of what you read.  For instance, if you google “rosehip vitamin C,” you will find page after page of articles claiming rosehip oil is rich in vitamin C, which just isn’t true!  I wrote a post on my blog about the vitamin C myth regarding rosehip oil.   This is why I go and find peer-reviewed papers, when they are available, as a reliable source of information.  But even those you have to be careful and look at the way the study was conducted before accepting their conclusion as accurate.  When working with natural ingredients, sometimes part of the challenge when formulating is that there just aren’t many studies related to skin care about them.  So what I will do in that instance is look up the chemical composition of said ingredient, and look into research involving those components instead.

Do you have any favorite resources (whether books, online databases, etc.) for enriching understanding of ingredients and/or skin-related topics that you would recommend to an interested audience?

If you are interested in working with essential oils, I highly recommend www.aromahead.com as a source of information.  For an annual fee, you can get access to their component database, which gives you access to research papers organized by each chemical component found in essential oils.  They also offer excellent aromatherapy courses.

This is a great database to find research papers: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

As far as books, here is a list of my favorite books for someone that is looking to start delving into aromatherapy or herbalism.

Medical Herbalism (Hoffman)

The Herbal Medicine-Maker’s Handbook (Green)

The Chemistry of Aromatherapeutic Oil (E. Joy Bowles)

What do you see as the most important things that set Apoterra Skincare apart from other lines on the marketplace?

I am a firm believer that science helps shine a light on what is true, but I am also a firm believer in the knowledge that traditional methods such as herbalism have to offer.   I combine both of these beliefs to offer a unique skincare line that marries the best of both worlds by combining herbal infusions, plant oils, raw botanicals and essential oil, with cutting-edge, naturally-derived technology like liposome encapsulated vitamin C and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.  We offer natural, safe and effective products that approach skin care holistically to bring and maintain balance to the skin.

Our products also offer you an opportunity to connect with yourself and nature by elevating your personal care ritual through natural scents and textures.  I really believe these little moments in our day are essential for our well-being, and through the experience of using them, our products are meant to help you tune into yourself and take care of both your skin and mind.

We also offer guidance and education through our blog, skin care guide, and one-on-one guidance through email (info@apoterraskincare.com).  We believe that knowledge is power, and we want to offer you helpful and eye-opening information so you so that you can be empowered to take the best possible care of your skin.

I also believe in being kind to our planet and in being honest, which is why we strive to be environmentally friendly and transparent in our practices.  We are Leaping Bunny Cruelty Free certified and a Green America Certified Business.  We also hand stamp each of our products with a batch # which can be looked up on our website to find out more about the date of production and ingredient sourcing.

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