Sarah Duran of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare
How have your training and experience as an esthetician informed and influenced your approach to formulation and your goals for Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?
Sarah Duran (SD): I was fortunate to have great teachers when I was an Esthetician student. As part of our program, we were required to take chemistry and our professor would bring in her special cart filled with essential oils and simple ingredients to formulate things like hyaluronic acid gel and goat milk powder and clays to make masks. That is where I initially got the bug and my first taste at formulating. After my first couple of years of hands-on experience working with clients and learning about various skin types and conditions, I realized I wanted to continue to learn formulation so I could customize each treatment with ingredients I knew would be more beneficial and less irritating or sensitizing then the vast majority of what I was seeing being offered in the spa or to Estheticians. I then continued my education in cosmetic chemistry at UCLA Extension. My foundation to properly do a skin analysis and understand skin biochemistry came from studying for my license and my continued education at UCLA with Rebecca Gadberry as well as graduating from Formula Botanica. That foundation is what my brand has been built on. I can’t imagine formulating without the knowledge of what ingredients work best with what skin type, tone or condition. Every ingredient I source that makes its way into a formula is first driven by purpose.
How would you describe the beauty and skincare philosophies behind Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?
SD: My beauty and skincare philosophies behind my brand are simple, to restore the skin to a state of homeostasis and create a skincare ritual to bring you back to self-connection or as my tagline states to restore to calm. If we can inspire consumers to value taking time out of their busy schedules to treat themselves to ten minutes of “Mei” time, alone, in front of their vanity mirror, gently massaging in their cleanser, breathing in the calming aroma of lavender, followed by applying their vanilla infused facial oil and honoring their skin and all its been through, every smile line, knowing that you’re providing nourishment, energy and strength to each cell, then we’ve accomplished our goal.
Right now, Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare offers two dynamic products, Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum. Why was it important to you to launch with a tightly curated line of hero products? Do you anticipate expanding the line with any additions in the future?
SD: I wanted to create formulas that have been born out of research and awareness of common skin concerns and how to address them. My products have been purposefully created to synergistically work together to reduce inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier.
I based my launch on two products that were my clients’ favorites on my Etsy shop. Yes, I first established my brand on Etsy for about a year before launching my official website in May of 2021. This gave me an opportunity to create customized products for clients and a way to charge and ship them. I decided to launch with two anhydrous products that not only were effective and repeat sellers, but because they were anhydrous it was easier to scale up if needed and keep costs down for outsourcing testing in a lab.
I plan on launching a few products in the next two years. I’m basing them on what is frequently used when giving facials so it will appeal to not only consumers but Estheticians as well. I’m currently working on an acne powdered mask, an enzyme exfoliator, and a brightening serum for hyperpigmentation. Both water based products will be thoroughly tested for efficacy, stability and preservation in a lab.
What are the biggest mistakes you see people making in their skincare choices and routines, and how do Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum help clients avoid these potential pitfalls?
SD: When I see clients for the first time and notice they have a compromised skin barrier; redness, dry, flaky, sensitive skin – I start to ask questions about what they use, how often, etc. I’m surprised by the trends people follow that can have adverse effects on their skin. For example, using the wrong products for the wrong skin type, or over exfoliating by using harsh exfoliants that aren’t meant for use as a daily cleanser. If for instance, you wear lots of makeup you may need to double cleanse, but if you don’t, or are just waking up in the morning, a gentle oil cleanser is enough to clean your skin without stripping it. Our Everlasting facial oil restores the natural moisture barrier and contains Bakuchiol which was shown in a study to be effective in improving acne by reducing excess oil and has antibacterial properties; it also stimulates collagen synthesis and can be worn in the day with no photosensitivity. Finding products that are effective yet do not sensitize the skin is important for homeostasis. We offer products that multitask and keep the skin smooth, supple and harmonized.
What is your process for creating a new product?
SD: My process when I’m creating a new product always starts with how I want to address the issue i.e. breakouts, dry skin, hyperpigmentation. Once I do that, then I decide what type of product I want to create such as a toner, mask, serum, cleanser, etc. Once those two things are decided on then begins the research and restless nights thinking about ingredients. I’ve created a folder that has data on ingredients I’ve obtained samples of from the manufacturers or other ingredients I’d like to use. Each section is categorized by common concerns I’d like to address to help me stay organized. Once I’ve honed down on my ingredients that are compatible, then I create the formula. It then takes time to test the formula and create samples. Once I’m happy with the formula I begin stability testing which could take months. When I’m finally ready to try it out I give samples to friends and family for feedback.
Anti-aging: do you view it as an offensive term, a false marketing concept, a worthy pursuit, or something else entirely? Why?
SD: I don’t want to be defined by age. I believe beauty is timeless and we all grow old and wiser with age. The term Anti-aging is just that..a term. I aim to encourage women to accept aging with grace. I like to refer to anti-aging instead as pro-aging. I think we can all look our best with a little help and a good skincare routine. A healthy attitude and lifestyle goes a long way in keeping you looking your best at any age. I’m not against plastic surgery or anything one does to enhance their beauty. It’s a personal decision and I say do you. Who am I to judge what makes someone feel good about themselves. It’s not about words; it’s about self-perception, awareness, and being at peace internally.
What is your philosophy on exfoliation, and what are your thoughts on how to strike a balance without overdoing it and causing damage to the skin barrier?
SD: I think exfoliation is an important step in your skincare routine. As we age, our skin needs a little help to shed that dead skin as it takes longer to do on its own. When you exfoliate, you not only remove the dead skin cells, but you aid in new cells coming through. Your products absorb better, and your makeup goes on more smoothly. If you are breakout prone, you need to exfoliate so your dead skin does not build up as food for bacteria causing more breakouts. However, for skin that is normal to combo, you only need to exfoliate 1-2 times a week. If you are breakout prone, 3 times a week is plenty. You can cause more dryness and sensitivity to over exfoliate by removing natural lipids that help to protect the skin barrier.
How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your brand and products?
SD: I want my consumers to enjoy their daily cleanse and look forward to it. After you’ve washed your face and get ready for your day or end your day and are getting ready to sleep, your skin will feel good, refreshed, soft. If using the Everlasting facial oil, and you look in the mirror and see how your skin glows, I want you to smile at your beautiful self and feel beautiful. When people come to my Instagram profile I want them to find a community of acceptance and positivity.
After using my Renew oil to milk cleanser, you are left with skin that feels clean, yet supple not tight and dry. A daily cleanser should not strip your skin and I genuinely believe that less is more. Less acids, less foam, less exfoliation.
My Everlasting facial oil was created for all skin types as a daily moisturizer with added pro-aging actives such as Bakuchiol and White Lupin seed, both proven to be effective in the synthesis of collagen and increase elasticity and firmness in the skin. I say pro-aging because I believe it is inevitable that we are going to age, but we can do it gracefully and embrace it. It Restores the natural moisture barrier and infuses the skin with antioxidants and omega-rich 3,6,9 nourishing oils. It also absorbs easily into the skin leaving it smooth, supple, and moisturized.
Every package that goes out includes dried roses and a handwritten thank you note sealed with wax. I want each unboxing experience to feel like a present because it is, it’s a present to yourself or gifted to you by a loved one. My brand is about self-love and treating yourself to great quality natural skincare you can feel good about and that feels good on your skin.
What do you see as the greatest success of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare so far and what are your hopes and dreams for the future?
SD: So far I’m just grateful to have launched my website this year with two award winning products. I hope to create additional products for my line in the next few years to offer a full range of skincare, yet keeping it simple and essential. I also would like to expand my reach to consumers by creating relationships with other Estheticians to sell my products as well as retail locations both online and in person boutiques.