Five Elements Skincare is a lovely natural skincare line from New Zealand. In addition to enjoying and reviewing several of the products, I also had the privilege of interviewing Five Elements Skincare Founder Karen Mackay, a trained botanist who brings a deep knowledge of plants to her formulations.
Five Elements Founder Karen Mackay
What are the Five Elements?
Karen Mackay (KM): Ginkgo / Ginko–Extract of ginkgo biloba is very useful both for the skin and for the hair, it has a strong effect against the course of oxidative processes in the skin and also inhibits the activity of free radicals, it cleanses the contaminated skin and pores from sebum well, protects the skin from harmful external influences, and beautiful. It is used in anti-cellulite products because of its anti-edematous effect.
Olive Oil–Has a regenerating effect, smooths wrinkles, prevents their formation. Used to grow and strengthen hair. Due to the high content of antioxidants, it is often used in products for fading skin.
Plantain / Plantago–The extract contains vitamins C, A, K, tannins, mucus, glycosides, aucubin, bitter substances, a small amount of phytoncides and alkaloids, carbohydrates, saponins. It has bactericidal, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, cleansing and astringent action. Used in anti-inflammatory drugs, facial care, hand creams, after-sun lotions, preparations for the porous skin of the face, for sensitive skin.
Sorrel / Rumex–Conditioner for the skin, emollient, brightening effect, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory.
Rosemary / Rosemary–An indispensable assistant in the fight against acne, acne, well softens even the coarsest skin.
In addition to this base in the composition of organic rose hips, avocado, jojoba, essential oils of geranium, palmarosa and lavender. And that’s all. Nothing much, very natural composition.
How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?
KM: To answer this question, I need to tell you my story about how this business started:
I was a practicing teacher for decades! (Maths, Science and Biology at secondary school level). Towards the end of my teaching career, I had a student in one of my classes who was scratching her arms to bleeding point with eczema. Every time I looked at this kid she was scratching herself and obviously in a great deal of discomfort; she was from a compromised family background, I felt sorry for her and one weekend (in October; I had been teaching her since Feb that year), I was determined that I was going to make a skin cream/ balm/ ointment that would soothe her condition.
I live rurally on our small sheep farm and knew what was growing in the area and what I had access to. I sat down and researched the benefits of certain plants, how to make the appropriate extracts, balm etc. Shortly thereafter I gave this lass a tub of what I now call Skin Tonic, told her to apply it at least twice a day, or as needed and within four days her condition had completely cleared!! Initially, I thought that this response was a placebo effect…she liked me, wanted to please me…and her body had come to the party! However, over the next year or so, I trialed the product extensively with people who had all sorts of compromised skin conditions, including severe burns, wounds, eczema, dermatitis, rashes, blisters to great success; it even dampens down psoriasis and rosacea (those skin conditions that have an emotional trigger won’t be cured until the emotional issue has been addressed, but the Skin Tonic will significantly reduce the symptoms).
Given the extensive anecdotal feedback that I have now received from hundreds of people, this extract obviously provides the skin with a concentrated form of anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, and nutrients, and by enhancing blood circulation, allows for more oxygen saturation and provides a greater detox through the increased removal of wastes at the skin level. It was at this point of realization that I decided to make a skin product range that would contain as its core ingredient what we now call our Elemental Phyto-extracts.
The only product that you won’t find our Elemental Phyto-extracts in is the Sunscreen – I tried to include it, and it worked just fine, but after a few weeks, purple steaks began forming throughout the product and I realized that the mineral rich nature of the product was causing an oxidation of the potassium and manganese by the zinc oxide, to form potassium permanganate which is Condy’s Crystals. I didn’t think that people trying to protect themselves from excessive sun exposure would resort to purple steaks adorning their bodies, so I removed it from the ingredient list.
What are your biggest overarching goals as a) a formulator and b) as a brand founder?
KM: Customer satisfaction in terms of product delivery expectations. No additives that will compromise the health of the user. To eliminate unnecessary ingredients and maximize the benefits of natural plant-derived extracts. Ethical and enviro-friendly practices. Sustainability of plant ingredients.
What is your process for creating a new product?
KM: We are always looking for better ways to develop new and helpful products. We have not formalized our approach to new product development, but listen to our customers; when they bring their suggestions, we try them out on at small scale first and then improve the formulation, keeping things as good and natural as they can be.
How would you describe the experience you want consumers to have with Five Elements products?
KM: Customer satisfaction in terms of product delivery expectations. No harmful reactions with use of the product. To engender a feeling of satisfaction that they are giving their skin the maximum nutrient benefit, in the most natural way, in order to maintain a healthy appearance.
Can you describe your signature Elemental Phytoextracts and how this makes Five Elements unique?
KM: Early on we identified the five healing plants, from which we derive our name: Ginkgo, Rosemary, Rumex, Plantago, and Olive. These plants have been used in traditional medicine for hundreds, if not thousands of years and scientific studies back up their efficacy as healing agents. This Five Elements extract is pure ‘skin food’; with a high concentration of anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, minerals, vitamins, and other beneficial phytonutrients.
How has your post-graduate degree in botany influenced your approach to skincare and product formulation?
KM: Comfortable with critiquing research, as well as growing and working with plants and understanding their nutritional needs. This knowledge enables me to provide an environment that maximizes plant health and therefore the quality of the extracts. I am familiar with working out formulas and ratios and laboratory techniques that are required for product formulation.
Five Elements uses locally-grown ingredients that are biodynamically grown. Why is this approach important to you, and what additional benefits does it lend to your products and to the consumer?
KM: We farm organically and biodynamically, paying particular attention to soil health. This requires correct soil pH to allow the symbiotic bacteria to establish a healthy relationship with the plants so that they can maximize their soil nutrient absorption and in turn maximize their phytonutrient production. It also means that no artificial or synthetic products are going into the soil environment and being absorbed by the plants, which could potentially end up in the extracts.
Five Elements gives back to conservation efforts by supporting the Marlborough Bat Recovery Project. How did you choose this cause, and why is it important?
KM: We live within walking distance of the beautiful Pelorus River Scenic Reserve, which is the home of one of the few remaining populations of long tailed bats in New Zealand; bats are the only indigenous mammals to our country! My husband, Don, is a member of a team of voluntary trappers of pest animals that pose a threat to the wildlife in this sanctuary, such as rats, mice and stoats. We believe in the beauty that exists in both people and in the environment, which we find ourselves in, and want to do our part to help make a positive and long lasting impact on our surroundings. We strongly believe everyone can play a role in making a difference in this world, no matter how small.
How can consumers outside of New Zealand enjoy your products? Do you have any plans for international retailers?
KM: We are fortunate to have met many people from overseas who were visiting New Zealand, and I have had conversations with customers through cruise ship markets and with those who come to our shop in the local town of Picton. With many such people buying the product, liking it, and wanting more, this prompted us to set up an on-line presence. At the moment we receive a fair number of orders through our online store and stock our product in a few organic shops, mainly in Auckland. We would like to expand when the time is right, to pass on the benefit of our products to a wider audience, and are presently exploring options.
How would you advise people to choose between the Skin Tonic Liquid and the Skin Tonic Balm?
KM: I suggest using the Liquid on the face and in the hair line, for ease of application – it is less gloopy; also on areas that are most compromised by a condition, as it contains 100% of the five plant extract. The balm equates to 85% of the extract and is recommended for the rest of the body.
Elemental Renewal Serum is so much more dynamic than the typical oil-based serums generally found on the market, in part due to the Elemental Phytoextracts, included at a whopping 50%. What sorts of benefits can customers expect to see given this generous amount of your Elemental Phytoextracts in this formulation?
KM: In formulating this serum, I wanted to include organic oils and essential oils that both complemented and supplemented the nutrient benefits of the five elemental phyto-extracts, but that were also user friendly and easily absorbed.
This is our premium product and is my personal favorite; it certainly ticks all the boxes with regard to repair, regeneration and maintaining skin vitality!
How would you advise someone to choose between Elemental Renewal Serum and Skin Tonic?
KM: If you don’t have a compromised skin condition, choose the ER serum, every time! If budget is a factor in your decision-making, you won’t be disappointed with the Skin Tonic Liquid. If your skin is sensitive and you have a sensitivity to essential oils, the Skin Tonic liquid would be a better choice.
Could you describe how you approach pricing and the ways in which you prioritize accessibility?
KM: May I just add as a final point that if you look at the prices of our product, relative to volume as well, we have kept the prices of the Skin Tonic Balm and Liquid, at a low and very cost effective price – our profit margins for these products are not at all high and deliberately so! From an ethical point of view, I want these products, as significant skin healers, to be affordable and within the buying reach of all who need and can benefit from their application.
Be sure to check out my review of Ms. Mackay’s products!