Sarah Duran of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare

How have your training and experience as an esthetician informed and influenced your approach to formulation and your goals for Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?

Sarah Duran (SD): I was fortunate to have great teachers when I was an Esthetician student. As part of our program, we were required to take chemistry and our professor would bring in her special cart filled with essential oils and simple ingredients to formulate things like hyaluronic acid gel and goat milk powder and clays to make masks. That is where I initially got the bug and my first taste at formulating. After my first couple of years of hands-on experience working with clients and learning about various skin types and conditions, I realized I wanted to continue to learn formulation so I could customize each treatment with ingredients I knew would be more beneficial and less irritating or sensitizing then the vast majority of what I was seeing being offered in the spa or to Estheticians. I then continued my education in cosmetic chemistry at UCLA Extension. My foundation to properly do a skin analysis and understand skin biochemistry came from studying for my license and my continued education at UCLA with Rebecca Gadberry as well as graduating from Formula Botanica. That foundation is what my brand has been built on. I can’t imagine formulating without the knowledge of what ingredients work best with what skin type, tone or condition. Every ingredient I source that makes its way into a formula is first driven by purpose.

How would you describe the beauty and skincare philosophies behind Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?

SD:  My beauty and skincare philosophies behind my brand are simple, to restore the skin to a state of homeostasis and create a skincare ritual to bring you back to self-connection or as my tagline states to restore to calm. If we can inspire consumers to value taking time out of their busy schedules to treat themselves to ten minutes of “Mei” time, alone, in front of their vanity mirror, gently massaging in their cleanser, breathing in the calming aroma of lavender, followed by applying their vanilla infused facial oil and honoring their skin and all its been through, every smile line, knowing that you’re providing nourishment, energy and strength to each cell, then we’ve accomplished our goal.

Right now, Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare offers two dynamic products, Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum. Why was it important to you to launch with a tightly curated line of hero products? Do you anticipate expanding the line with any additions in the future?

SD:  I wanted to create formulas that have been born out of research and awareness of common skin concerns and how to address them. My products have been purposefully created to synergistically work together to reduce inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier.

I based my launch on two products that were my clients’ favorites on my Etsy shop. Yes, I first established my brand on Etsy for about a year before launching my official website in May of 2021. This gave me an opportunity to create customized products for clients and a way to charge and ship them. I decided to launch with two anhydrous products that not only were effective and repeat sellers, but because they were anhydrous it was easier to scale up if needed and keep costs down for outsourcing testing in a lab.

I plan on launching a few products in the next two years. I’m basing them on what is frequently used when giving facials so it will appeal to not only consumers but Estheticians as well. I’m currently working on an acne powdered mask, an enzyme exfoliator, and a brightening serum for hyperpigmentation. Both water based products will be thoroughly tested for efficacy, stability and preservation in a lab.

What are the biggest mistakes you see people making in their skincare choices and routines, and how do Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum help clients avoid these potential pitfalls?

SD:  When I see clients for the first time and notice they have a compromised skin barrier; redness, dry, flaky, sensitive skin – I start to ask questions about what they use, how often, etc. I’m surprised by the trends people follow that can have adverse effects on their skin. For example, using the wrong products for the wrong skin type, or over exfoliating by using harsh exfoliants that aren’t meant for use as a daily cleanser. If for instance, you wear lots of makeup you may need to double cleanse, but if you don’t, or are just waking up in the morning, a gentle oil cleanser is enough to clean your skin without stripping it. Our Everlasting facial oil restores the natural moisture barrier and contains Bakuchiol which was shown in a study to be effective in improving acne by reducing excess oil and has antibacterial properties; it also stimulates collagen synthesis and can be worn in the day with no photosensitivity. Finding products that are effective yet do not sensitize the skin is important for homeostasis. We offer products that multitask and keep the skin smooth, supple and harmonized.

What is your process for creating a new product? 

SD:  My process when I’m creating a new product always starts with how I want to address the issue i.e. breakouts, dry skin, hyperpigmentation. Once I do that, then I decide what type of product I want to create such as a toner, mask, serum, cleanser, etc. Once those two things are decided on then begins the research and restless nights thinking about ingredients. I’ve created a folder that has data on ingredients I’ve obtained samples of from the manufacturers or other ingredients I’d like to use. Each section is categorized by common concerns I’d like to address to help me stay organized. Once I’ve honed down on my ingredients that are compatible, then I create the formula. It then takes time to test the formula and create samples. Once I’m happy with the formula I begin stability testing which could take months. When I’m finally ready to try it out I give samples to friends and family for feedback.

Anti-aging:  do you view it as an offensive term, a false marketing concept, a worthy pursuit, or something else entirely?  Why?

SD:  I don’t want to be defined by age. I believe beauty is timeless and we all grow old and wiser with age. The term Anti-aging is just that..a term. I aim to encourage women to accept aging with grace. I like to refer to anti-aging instead as pro-aging. I think we can all look our best with a little help and a good skincare routine. A healthy attitude and lifestyle goes a long way in keeping you looking your best at any age. I’m not against plastic surgery or anything one does to enhance their beauty. It’s a personal decision and I say do you. Who am I to judge what makes someone feel good about themselves. It’s not about words; it’s about self-perception, awareness, and being at peace internally.

What is your philosophy on exfoliation, and what are your thoughts on how to strike a balance without overdoing it and causing damage to the skin barrier?

SD:  I think exfoliation is an important step in your skincare routine. As we age, our skin needs a little help to shed that dead skin as it takes longer to do on its own. When you exfoliate, you not only remove the dead skin cells, but you aid in new cells coming through. Your products absorb better, and your makeup goes on more smoothly. If you are breakout prone, you need to exfoliate so your dead skin does not build up as food for bacteria causing more breakouts. However, for skin that is normal to combo, you only need to exfoliate 1-2 times a week. If you are breakout prone, 3 times a week is plenty. You can cause more dryness and sensitivity to over exfoliate by removing natural lipids that help to protect the skin barrier.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your brand and products?

SD:  I want my consumers to enjoy their daily cleanse and look forward to it. After you’ve washed your face and get ready for your day or end your day and are getting ready to sleep, your skin will feel good, refreshed, soft. If using the Everlasting facial oil, and you look in the mirror and see how your skin glows, I want you to smile at your beautiful self and feel beautiful. When people come to my Instagram profile I want them to find a community of acceptance and positivity.

After using my Renew oil to milk cleanser, you are left with skin that feels clean, yet supple not tight and dry. A daily cleanser should not strip your skin and I genuinely believe that less is more. Less acids, less foam, less exfoliation.

My Everlasting facial oil was created for all skin types as a daily moisturizer with added pro-aging actives such as Bakuchiol and White Lupin seed, both proven to be effective in the synthesis of collagen and increase elasticity and firmness in the skin. I say pro-aging because I believe it is inevitable that we are going to age, but we can do it gracefully and embrace it. It Restores the natural moisture barrier and infuses the skin with antioxidants and omega-rich 3,6,9 nourishing oils. It also absorbs easily into the skin leaving it smooth, supple, and moisturized.

Every package that goes out includes dried roses and a handwritten thank you note sealed with wax. I want each unboxing experience to feel like a present because it is, it’s a present to yourself or gifted to you by a loved one. My brand is about self-love and treating yourself to great quality natural skincare you can feel good about and that feels good on your skin.

What do you see as the greatest success of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare so far and what are your hopes and dreams for the future?

SD:  So far I’m just grateful to have launched my website this year with two award winning products. I hope to create additional products for my line in the next few years to offer a full range of skincare, yet keeping it simple and essential. I also would like to expand my reach to consumers by creating relationships with other Estheticians to sell my products as well as retail locations both online and in person boutiques.

The post Interview with Sarah Duran of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Janet Schriever, Code of Harmony Skincare founder, approaches her passion for clean, multi-benefit cannabidiol (CBD) skincare with impressive commitment and energy.  Her products synergistically combine hemp with a luscious array of soothing plant-based cosmeceuticals.  Code of Harmony Skincare formulations are loaded with active ingredients yet designed to nurture even sensitive skin, with a strong emphasis on soothing the symptoms of irritable and problem skin and promoting youthful vitality.  In addition to doing tons of research on ingredients and formulation, Ms. Schriever has taken classes at UCLA and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and recently enrolled in a 40-hour-a-week esthetician school as well!  Somehow, she also finds the energy to singlehandedly manage Code of Harmony Skincare, an indie beauty line that she has singlehandedly crafted start to finish.  If Ms. Schriever is particularly committed to Code of Harmony and its customers (with whom she genuinely enjoys connecting), perhaps it is because she knows the potential her products hold as well as the huge weight that is lifted when a person finally finds a fix for troubled skin.  For decades, Ms. Schriever herself struggled with and tirelessly sought a topical solution to help calm her rosacea, which led her to discover the soothing benefits of CBD.  Knowing she was onto something, Ms. Schriever built Code of Harmony Skincare—the original beauty-focused CBD line–out of a genuine love for the skin benefits.  Looking at her clear and glowing complexion now, I am eager to incorporate Code of Harmony products into my regular routine.  Indeed, it’s hard to believe Ms. Schriever’s skin was ever troubled; today at 50, she exudes radiance and easily looks 15 years younger.  Lucky for me, once I started using her high-performance products, a bit of that youthful luminosity seemed to rub off on me.  (You can read my reviews of Code of Harmony Skincare here and here!)

Code of Harmony Skincare Founder Janet Schriever

Are there any misconceptions about CBD that you would like to clear up right off the bat? 

 Janet Schriever (JS): CBD won’t get you high.  My products won’t cause you to fail a drug test or smell like weed.  Also, people sometimes assume that Code of Harmony Skincare is hippie-dippy or that it’s simple and homemade because CBD is the star ingredient, but in reality, my formulas are very complex.  For example, the delivery system I use, Safflower Oleosomes, work in a time-released fashion and gradually releases the active ingredients.  When it comes to beneficial ingredients, I use a lot of them; every ingredient in my products has been chosen because of its skin benefits.  There are no ingredients there just for sensorial effect or fragrance because I want everything to serve the skin rather than just serving the formulation.

 How did you get started in skincare?

JS:  I looked at the skincare I was using and noticed all the fillers and things that really didn’t need to be there—about 98% of the formulations were fillers and ingredients that weren’t helping skin.  I wanted formulations with ingredients there to truly benefit skin. I originally started making products by myself with every soothing and anti-aging ingredient I could find.  I had no intention of selling anything.  I hate to say I was going for something gentle because the products are actually very efficacious, but I didn’t want them to worsen skin problems or cause irritation.  I spent a ton of time doing trial and error and conducting research.    My research led to discoveries like the fact that chamomile, despite being soothing, can cause a reaction in a number of people, myself included; I went a little deeper in my research and found that the calming component in chamomile, bisabolol, gives the same benefit without the risk of reaction [hence, the reason Code of Harmony uses bisabolol extracted from chamomile rather than the full-spectrum plant].  I would love to put all the botanicals on the label, but for people with sensitized skin, often highly-purified extracts deliver more optimal benefits without irritation.

What has your journey been as a formulator?

JS:  I’m 80% self-taught.  I took some classes at UCLA and some workshops here and there for some formal training, but most of what I know I’ve learned through research.  At first, I was reading a ton, but I wasn’t discerning enough about the source.  Eventually, I stopped reading blogs and informal publications and started reading clinical trials.  I also used my own experience, looking to other products and ingredients that have worked well and are proven effective.

Can you describe your own skin frustrations, how you discovered CBD, and the difference it made?

JS:  I struggled with rosacea for years, and it was bad off an on, but at 46, it really flared up.  I spent several years experimenting, doing DIY projects trying to find and create something to get my skin under control.  It was a long experimental process.  I started another skincare line briefly.  Then I went to a meeting with an organization called Women Grow that supports women getting into the cannabis business.  I was not particularly interested in cannabis being a business, but I was slightly curious about CBD.  At the meeting, I learned about CBD and what it could do internally in the body.  It immediately clicked for me that it could be a fantastic skincare ingredient.  At the time, CBD in skincare was primarily targeting pain relief, and there were not any beauty-focused CBD lines on the market.  I decided to try it, and it took the products I had been making to a whole new level.  My skin responded beautifully, and I soon got confirmation that others’ did as well.

What are your favorite benefits of CBD for skin?

JS: The calming, soothing benefits are pretty great.  Studies have proven we have an endocannabinoid system in our skin that responds to CBD, and when that system is toned, you can see good results. CBD is wonderful at helping to alleviate the symptoms of acne, eczema, rosacea.  It’s also a great ingredient for sensitive skin and aging.  If you react to some skincare or have trouble tolerating a lot of it, you may have better luck with a CBD product.  That said, every CBD skincare product has to prove itself on its own merit.  They are not all created equal!

Have there been any challenges related to introducing a CBD line specifically?

JS:  I spent an entire year trying to educate consumers about some of the basics about CBD. The type of CBD I use is not going to get you high or test positive on a drug test.  The CBD isolate I use in Code of Harmony Skincare is completely free of THC (e.g., tetrahydrocannabinol, the chemical compound in cannabis responsible for the high), so what they test for in a drug test is completely absent.

A report by market research firm Brightfield Group notes that hemp-derived CBD is still treated as a controlled substance by the U.S. Drug Enforcement Agency despite the fact that it will not get a person high or test positive on a drug test.  Why is a non-psychoactive substance being treated as dangerous, and what challenges does this present to Code of Harmony Skincare as a small independent business?

JS:  The US government has a patent on CBD as a neuroprotectant and antioxidant and yet maintains that CBD is not therapeutic.  It is still a Schedule I Drug according to the DEA, and the DEA treats CBD the same no matter where it’s derived.  In their eyes, hemp-derived CBD is the same as cannabis-derived CBD.  However, we have to remember who actually makes the laws—Congress, not the DEA.  The problem that this creates for me is consumer perception.  The consumer is confused about whether they can legally buy a CBD product.  Yes, it’s legal; the DEA will not come arrest you.  The Farm Bill says that hemp-derived CBD is legal as long as it is under 0.3% THC [note: Code of Harmony Skincare’s hemp-derived CBD isolate contains no THC], and luckily the stigma is lessening as people realize how safe and beneficial it is.  There’s no reason that hemp should not be 100% legal without any “grey” area or question about where it is derived.  Hemp is grown for all sorts of purposes—paper, clothes, food, medicine.

Many CBD beauty companies encounter banking difficulties due to federal regulations. Has it been difficult to obtain the financial backing you need, and how have you managed?

JS:  Code of Harmony Skincare has faced the same issues with banking that any cannabis business would.  Most banks will shut down merchant processing, and this has happened to me several times.  Larger CBD companies have resources to work this out, but I am self-funded and doing everything myself.  Customers have to buy Code of Harmony Skincare by virtual check.  A lot of customers get put off by that because it can make them start wondering if it’s an illicit purchase.  Really, it’s just a banking issue and not a legality issue, but it has certainly been a challenge for my business.  In terms of larger funding issues, there has been interest from investment companies, but unless they understand the CBD market (which most don’t), it may seem like too much risk for them.  Regulatory issues have made growth slower for me.  As a small business owner who is self-funded, it has been daunting at times.  CBD is a great ingredient, but if it were easy to incorporate CBD into products, you would see all the big corporations jumping on the trend.  Still, I think it [the trouble] will be worth it.  CBD is still new on the market, still seen as somewhat of a novelty ingredient.  I keep hoping things will get easier (business-wise) as CBD’s benefits and safety record become more common knowledge.

What is your approach to formulation?  How did you decide on the additional beneficial ingredients to include in each product along with CBD?

JS:  I’m a big proponent of natural and botanical ingredients and use a variety of them in Code of Harmony.  [Indeed, Code of Harmony ingredient lists feature an array of precious botanicals like Sea Kelp Bioferment, Tremella Mushroom Extract, Safflower Oleosomes, Goji Berry Root Extract, Licorice Root Extract, Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Guava Seed Oil, Watermelon Seed Oil, CoQ10, Pomegranate Oil, Sea Buckthorn CO2, and many more!]  I use them whenever possible, but I also use cosmeceutical extracts, vitamins, and antioxidants.  It’s not easy formulating products naturally.  What many consumers don’t understand is that full-spectrum plant extracts are strong, and there are often a lot of things in them that can irritate and inflame skin.  I love botanicals, and I choose the most efficacious ingredient that is best for the formula.  For instance, I use CBD-isolate rather than the full-spectrum hemp extract, as I use extracts like Centella Asiatica, Resveratrol, and Bisabolol to deliver the benefit without risking reaction.  Yes, they are highly purified, concentrated, and standardized plant extracts, which contain only the benefit and much less of any potential irritant. A lot of this goes against what people want to believe, but not every plant extract is good and not every synthetic is bad; a lab-created ingredient or extract may deliver equal or greater benefit and be a lot easier on the skin than something directly from a plant.

What have you learned about what it takes to launch and run a successful skincare line today?

JS:  I made a ton of mistakes and said yes to things I shouldn’t have.  The main takeaway is this, though:  if you stare down your fears, they eventually go away.  The success I have had is due to blind faith and a ton of work.  Through Instagram and events, I have met really cool people who trust and love Code of Harmony Skincare products.  I’ve really loved the aspect of connecting to my customers, and there’s been a lot of really great support and excitement.  It’s been unexpected and very cool.  That said, I am still very small and still growing.  I have much to do before I will feel secure about calling my business a success.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

JS:  I like a combination of natural and high-performance ingredients in my products.  The market tended to have very natural and organic products without much efficacy (they don’t offer much to skin issues).  On the other hand, traditional fully synthetic products with synthetic emulsifiers and lots of fillers are not helping the skin either.  Traditional skin care formulations can also cause irritation and are far from “clean.”  I wanted to create products with a natural emphasis that were full of every beneficial calming/soothing/nurturing ingredient I could find.  I wanted the products to be gentle in the sense that they won’t trigger irritation yet highly effective and results-driven.  Because I am not a traditional cosmetic chemist (and most of them learn in the lab and on the job), I don’t use a ton of surfactants or lab-created ingredients that are used in traditional skin care.  I came at this with the intention that every ingredient in my products should benefit and serve the skin.  I didn’t want filler ingredients in the products, so you won’t find white and fluffy creams in the line; my products are sort of a light ochre color because of the botanicals and antioxidants in them, and they have natural scents that come from the ingredients that are also helping your skin.

Janet Schriever

How is  Code of Harmony Skincare unique among CBD-skincare lines?

JS:  I blindly jumped into this, because I loved it.  I was the first to create a CBD-enhanced “clean” beauty line.  I have put a lot of love, faith, and time into crafting my products.  Now CBD is becoming a hot ingredient, and there are a bunch of lines popping up.  Some of these other companies white-label [i.e., buying their products from a huge producer and then rebranding it to make it appear like they made it].  I would love to see other brand owners put a little more time and thought into their formulas and sourcing, so they know exactly what they’re selling, what every ingredient does, and why it is in the formula.  So even if you are not the chemist, you can be aware of what you are selling and the potential benefits and risks.  For the consumer, you still want to find thoughtfully-formulated products with good reviews.  I choose every ingredient in my products to serve the skin, and my line shows that.  I strive to keep Code of Harmony Skincare accessible rather than pricing it out of range.  I am able to keep prices reasonable because I don’t have a lot of overhead.  It’s just me, and I’m not paying myself.

Code of Harmony Skincare uses a CBD isolate rather than a full-spectrum extract.  What are the advantages of this?

JS:  I find the isolate is less allergenic than the full-spectrum.  The isolate has the terpenes taken out, so there’s no scent, and this is greatly preferred by most people.  Taking the terpenes out lessens reactivity.

What current trends or pressures in the beauty industry frustrate you and which ones excite you, and why?

JS:  The clean beauty/indie thing happening right now is awesome.  Code of Harmony uses clean formulas that are free of fillers and harsh synthetics and full of rich phytonutrients, soothing ingredients, and anti-aging actives.  I think this is a smart approach.  At the same time, though, I think people need to get a little more educated about clean beauty because things are less black-and-white than a lot of consumers believe.  There are a lot of black-and-white attitudes without much digging deeper, and a lot of people are rule-bound to a fault, saying, “I will not use chemicals on my face,” when everything is chemical, or, “I’m not going to use anything I can’t pronounce.”  Some vendors put their consumers at risk by not using preservatives in products that require them.  Then there’s the sustainability issue.  I’m all for natural ingredients, but some things will actually be more sustainable when they’re not taken from nature—such as Sandalwood Oil or Hyaluronic Acid (that used to come from only an animal source and is now created in a lab).

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

JS:  The response and interest have been great.  My business has been very much about integrity and being transparent.  I try to give people realistic ideas about what to expect or not from each product.  The other thing to know is that the whole line has come from one person from start to finish.  I have done everything myself.  In terms of success, I am still so new!  There’s been a lot of interest from estheticians who want something new and effective.  There’s also been a great response from clients with hormonal cystic acne, rosacea, and other skin troubles; people send me dramatic Before and After pictures.  I don’t solicit these, but they send them in out of gratitude for the transformation they’ve seen in their skin.  Indie Beauty Expo (IBE) has been really invaluable in getting press exposure.  I participated in IBE’s BeautyX live deskside pitch contest, Deskside Domination and was chosen by Glamour, Allure, and Fat Mascara podcast as the winner.  This is huge for a little indie brand like me!  It proved to me that I am doing something of value.  I don’t plan on going anywhere.  I’m really passionate about this and not just jumping on CBD as a fad.

Read my reviews of Code of Harmony Skincare here and here!

The Code of Harmony Skincare Collection

The post Code of Harmony Skincare Founder Interview: Meet Janet Schriever appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

The creator of I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS, Ms. Lacerte, is a renowned medical esthetician with more than two decades of experience in an array of medical esthetics specialties (including working with patients facing cancer or serious burns). Despite her wisdom and impressive experience, her smooth skin appears untouched by age–surely a testament to her incredibly advanced vegan formulations for I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS along with dedication to a healthy lifestyle.  Ms. Lacerte has a deep understanding of skin and what it needs.  For example, as she has wisely stated on I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS’ social media, “I believe that our skin is so much more than just our outer covering.   It’s the outside of our inside and although it has evolved to protect us, our skin is still very sensitive and vulnerable and constantly under attack and so it needs our protection.  That’s why I make raw organic skincare products that will feed, nourish, protect, and love our skin.”  I am delighted that I had the opportunity to interview Ms. Lacerte, and you will find more of her insights below.

My Interview with I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS Founder Anis Lacerte

What is the story behind how you became a skincare formulator and an entrepreneur?

Anis Lacerte (AL): I became an esthetician in 1993 and did an aromatherapy training as well as plant medicine, and by 2003, I started developing skin peels and it quickly became a full line of skincare products. I wanted to use organic plant-based products for my skin that at the time I could not found in stores. I started working with a chemist and decided to do lots and lots of research on ingredients and plants and realize I wanted to focus on an anti-aging and skin correction products.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

AL: I use nothing but 100% botanical ingredients, nothing harmful, formulated for particular actions. I formulate to assist the body in calming the nervous system and enhancing the skin. This also assists in the regulation of the immune system. I believe plants heal. Phyto-Medicine is the future of health and skincare. I also love peptides, especially copper Peptides for skin healing. I believe in quality over quantity  meaning no mass produced ingredients. We spend up to 75% of our costs on raw ingredients for certain formulations, so you aren’t just paying for a pretty bottle, you’re paying for what’s inside.

How has your extensive background as a medical esthetician—along with experience helping burn survivors and cancer patients–informed your approach to skincare and product formulation for your outstanding line, I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS?  What did those patients teach you about healing and rejuvenating skin?

AL: In the 90s and early 2000, I was working with several plastic surgeons and helping with patients with scars from burns or mammectomy. I started doing microneedling using a tattoo machine and a single needle to relax the scar tissue. The patients were excited to try any new techniques. We worked with microneedling, peptides and plant medicine.

How is I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS enhanced by your additional studies of plant botany, herbal medicine, Ayurveda, and traditional Chinese medicine?

AL: We pack the most ingredients at the highest levels of concentration to deliver maximum results without a single drop of artificial chemicals.  We use Miron violet glass bottles and jars to keep our ingredients fresh, and craft our products from the highest quality plants available. We source more than 300 different ingredients from over 68 countries. The best organic ingredients come from all over the globe – and Tata leaves no stone unturned to find the best. We believe in quality over quantity that means no mass-produced ingredients. Most brands will get clinical feedback on a raw ingredient and put the bare minimum in the formula to deliver just the bare amount of results possible because that’s the most cost-efficient way to make products. But we believe more matters. If science shows that a result requires a minimum of 0.1% you’ll likely see much more than that percentage (and anywhere from 2-4X what our competitors put in) to deliver what we find is the absolute best possible result to our clients.

Could you please suggest a few standout I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS products that you would most highly recommend for each of some specific skin challenges?

AL: Below are key I’M FABULOUS products targeting each concern.

Signs of Aging—Copper Peptide Serum,  Caviar Serum, Luxurious Organic Serum, Retinol Cream, Peptide Collagen Repair Cream,  Bio Gorgeous Peel, TCA Cleanser, Powerful Volumizing Serum, Super Peptide Eye Serum, Power Anti-Aging Eye Cream

Acne— TCA Toner, TCA Cleanser, Blemish Potion

Dryness—Caviar Serum, Luxurious Organic Serum, Retinol Cream, Peptide Collagen Repair Cream, Bio Gorgeous Peel

Redness/Impaired Barrier— Niacinamide + B3 serum, Renew Serum

Pigmentation—TCA Toner, TCA Cleanser, Bio Gorgeous Peel, Super White Bio Serum, NIacinamide + B3 Serum, Vitamin C Brightening Serum

What are your favorite ingredients to work with, and why?

AL: With organic anti-aging ingredients that play an essential role in diminishing the visible signs of aging without the side effects of chemical ingredients. Botanical extracts contain antioxidants and help in retaining the youthful appearance of the skin by smoothening wrinkles, fading spots, reducing skin inflammation, and preventing oxidative stress.

What are some common mistakes you see people making in their skincare, and of these what makes you cringe the most and why?

AL: To spend most money on makeup and nothing on skincare, they rather cover their face with makeup to hide imperfection instead of making their skin glow. Most of them realize later as their ages that it is better to take care of the skin at an early age to prevent deep wrinkles and fine lines.

How have you created such an extensive line? What is your process for creating a new product, and do you have anything in the works right now?

AL: I wanted a line that address every skin type and skin condition. I read a lot about new ingredients, research a lot and always look for the new peptides or anti-aging ingredients and includes them in my formulas. I always want to stay on the top of the anti-aging research and formulation.

If you had to pick a favorite product or two from you line of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

AL: All of them, I use all of them, I alternate all my serums, creams and peels. The My ultimate favoite are the Luxe Cleanser, the Seaweed toner, the Caviar serum, the Bio Gorgeous peel, the Powerful Volumizing serum and Super peptide eye serum.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS?

AL: To fell in love with our products and never stop using them.

What current trends or pressures in the beauty industry frustrate you and which ones excite you, and why?

AL: Nothing frustrate me, I am a very positive person and I focus on my brand and not what others do. I am excited by the fact that now people are getting more educated on what they put on their skin and realize it is better to use organic skincare and makeup, then the ones loaded with toxic ingredients and preservatives.

What do you see as the greatest success of I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS so far and what is your vision for the future of your brand?

AL: Hopefully to sell it one day to a big brand.

Thank you for such a wonderful interview, Ms. Lacerte!

If you love gorgeous plant-based skincare like I do, then you won’t want to miss my full review of two I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS treasures, the TCA Toner and High Tech Copper Peptide Serum 10%.  Follow this link!

The post Interview with I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS Founder Anis Lacerte appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Okoko Cosmétiques founder Oyéta Kokoroko is well known in green beauty circles for her uniquely high-performance luxury skin care products, and hardly a person (myself included) can encounter her without commenting on her radiant complexion and uncommon beauty. Yet what lingers after a conversation with the Okoko Cosmétiques’ founder is her passion for excellence, her desire to unite foes for good, and her drive to elevate green beauty to its highest performance yet. As our interview reveals, Okoko Cosmétiques is ready to take part in the future of green beauty.  With the help of Okoko Cosmétiques Team Members Natalia Lavaggi and Sui-Ling Chin, Founder Oyéta is a green beauty visionary on a mission.

I read that your interests in wellness and green beauty were inspired in part by your desire to heal health concerns you had when you were young.  You educated yourself in naturopathic medicine including holistic nutrition and herbal medicine.  What are the most important things you’ve learned about natural healing?

Oyéta (O): I view natural healing as involving a combination of inside and outside changes.  When I first explored these issues, I had some health challenges that were linked to my lifestyle; when I began consciously improving my diet and paying attention to my lifestyle (by exercising, managing stress and taking time for relaxation), my problems went away.  The changes I experienced were amazing, and I became very interested in ingredients found in my food. You know what they say: “Let food be thy medicine.’ The good stuff, the simple foods, the plants foods, the fruits, the nuts, and the vegetables are really what the body needs to heal itself and be healthy.  If you are interested to know more, watch the documentary called “Hungry For Change.” It’s one of the best out there and it says it all.

We live in a highly toxic world and it’s important to take necessary measures to reduce the impact on your body, health, and environment. Try to reduce process foods, support your Farmer’s market, buy organic and fresh whenever possible, do a gentle cleanse from time to time and “clean your beauty routine” are a few steps in natural healing. As I said, the way I see it, healing is holistic. Take care of yourself inside and out. Eat clean, exercise regularly and do things that make you feel awesome. I also think that healing involves thinking about your own life story and working to be in a good place mentally. So yes your life story, state of mind, and thoughts really matter too.

Can you describe how and why your line brings together the best of botanical skincare and scientific skincare to produce such amazing results?

O: I studied natural organic skin care formulation, and most people don’t know this, but I also studied conventional skincare formulation as well.  Mainstream products are still the bulk of products sold on the market, and even though I approach things from a perspective of green beauty, I want to be informed and educated about the industry as a whole.

I find it important to study the conventional market or try to stay abreast of the latest conventional actives. I spend my free time researching novel ingredients and reading clinical studies. I’m in touch with chemists, suppliers, and pharmaceutical companies.  I’m passionate about natural and green, but I still want to work together with others with specialized knowledge. I learn from them, but at the same time, if they are a supplier, I don’t just take their word for it; I read the clinical studies and do my own digging.  I am a researcher at heart.  I like to understand what I’m buying and using—whether it’s food or beauty—really anything I’m using. I aim with my line to deliver ingredients of only the most extraordinary quality while doing good by supporting eco-driven suppliers and small cooperatives from around the world.

Can you tell us about your new mission and vision for Okoko Cosmétiques?

O: I want to bring together the good from modern science-based formulation with the best in green beauty, taking the valuable aspects of both and combining them.  I took the time to listen to green skincare consumers, and what I what I learned is that they want green formulation with proven natural active ingredients to amplify results. This feedback is really what inspired me to combine the best of natural skincare with safe, clinically tested actives. I am committed to innovation and ultimately I want to provide a top-level product line that includes bioferments, botanical extracts, functional actives, enzymes, etc.  I want my green products to deliver results on par with conventional products. But I will not use low-quality, mass-produced ingredients or fillers in my products.  If I say I can deliver something (with Okoko Cosmétiques), you can be sure I’ve done my homework on it.

At times, there’s a lot of hate between green beauty and mainstream beauty, but for me, it’s not about spreading fear; it’s about bringing something new and different to the table. I think natural skincare should be effective, not just safe. I think consumers have the right to expect more from their beauty products. Not just “safe” or “non-toxic,” it should go above that and help to improve your skin for the better. My goal is to bring green products up to the same level of results as conventional products.

What’s your process as a formulator?

O: I start with a need or a problem to solve and start imagining a product to do it.  I asked myself, what would be the benefits? How would it feel on the skin, and what ingredients do I want? Then I will imagine and develop my dream product that would do exactly that. I LOVE the development phase because I get to experiment a lot and try different combinations, textures, scents which is an incredible experience for a beauty alchemist like me. I research ingredients and actives that can help solve the problem, and then I determine through more research which of these ingredients work well together.  Then finally I formulate. Because of all the thorough researching, it takes a year even many years to formulate a product depending on its level of complexity.

What hurdles have you run into as a green beauty formulator?

O: I often hear people in the beauty community say things like “the chemical stuff just works better.” First off, what is the chemical stuff, lol? There are lots of amazing green beauty brands that have launched incredible products that perform as well or even better than their conventional counterparts. I realize that there is still lots of work to be done to promote natural alternatives. Many people still think that natural skin care doesn’t work or that they will not see the same results they were used to, which is completely false.

Another challenge is, as formulators, we have a responsibility to make products that are safe.  For example, a lot of people right now are against having preservatives in their skincare, but without them, products can end up being truly dangerous. If [a product] goes bad, someone could be harmed; people have ended up blind. We have to ask ourselves, which is the bigger danger using a preservative or leaving it out?  In the chemical industry today, there are more and more naturally-derived preservatives, so it’s possible to research carefully and choose a safe and natural one.

How do you use the products in the Okoko line?

O: The masks [Gentle Facial Treatment LA BOUE DE BEAUTÉ and Clay Face Mask LA D’TOX NOIRE] are great for relaxation and preparation.  The masks also make the serums [L’ÉLIXIR DE CLARTÉ (The Radiance Elixir) and L’ÉLIXIR DE PURETÉ Sang du Dragon (The Dragon’s Blood)] more effective, enhancing results.  After serum, I will follow with the Radiance Serum and Youth Oil LES 16 PRÉCIEUX (The Precious Oil) and then Sublime Balm.  For a truly amazing glow, I’ll mix Sublime Balm and a few drops of The Precious Oil together and then apply. And my skin looks and feels amazing!

I know this may be somewhat akin to asking you to choose a favorite child, but which of your products are you most proud of creating?

O: Haha, that’s a good question. I will need to think about it because I truly love the entire Okoko line and I find that each Okoko product works in synergy and you will see better results by using them together. But if I had to choose, maybe The Sublime Balm or The Dragon’s Blood serum. . . .

When I created Sublime Balm, people would tell me they had never seen anything like it, and it was very appealing [with lycopene from tomato oil in a sumptuous blend that includes mango butter, cacao butter, carrot tissue oil (rich in beta carotene) astaxanthin, turmeric, and rosehip oil, all balanced with white clay, bisabolol, and calendula to soothe and repair].

The Dragon’s Blood, even the name is a head-turner. This formula is designed to address a number of challenges. It was inspired by a custom formula I initially created for customers who had problematic skin. We received incredible feedback and I decided to elevate its formula. One of the key ingredients, Dragon’s blood, is a resinous sap, a healing red latex harvested from Dragon’s blood trees which contain taspine, a remarkable tissue-healing agent. I love this serum so much because it promotes skin renewal and healing in such a special way.  Niacinamide powerfully addresses inflammation, discoloration, and signs of aging.  This is a soothing serum, but it also provides gentle exfoliation with willow bark and pomegranate enzymes.  I injured myself (with a curling iron), and I have used The Dragon’s Blood to heal my scar.  I just put up Before and After pictures of my scar with no makeup [on Instagram] so that people can see for themselves how this serum performs.

[Oyeta reflects on this for a moment and smiles.]

I love the whole line. It’s me. I put my heart and soul into Okoko and I’m dedicated to creating and delivering safe, effective skincare products that can help you achieve optimal skin health and healing for real skin issues.

What do you most want your customers to get out of using your products?

O: I designed Okoko Cosmétiques to deliver a spa experience with true effectiveness. Okoko offers the opportunity to indulge and see results. There is everything you need to plump, nourish, repair and exude radiance.

What are some of the misconceptions people have and mistakes you see people making when it comes to skincare?

O: I see a lot of women with hundreds of products, especially bloggers.  Many people tend to use way too many different products and actives at once without knowing how they will mix and without giving each product a systematic chance to work.  I understand that bloggers work with brands and try new things, but with so many alternating products, how can you even begin to tell what’s working and what’s not?

Another mistake I see a lot is that people forget to keep their own needs and their skin type in mind and will use a product just because their best friend does despite differences in skin type.  When the product disappoints, is it really that the product is bad or is it just a poor match for that person’s skin?  Perhaps I didn’t see results because it was not formulated for my skin type.

Other common mistakes I see are:

• Not paying enough attention to ingredients
  • Putting too much makeup on to cover up
  • Not being consistent with your skincare routine

In this same vein, I would really like to see bloggers specify their skin type at the beginning of review articles so that readers can take the review in appropriate context.  I also see a lot of bloggers and consumers not doing their own research to verify and back up their claims.  If you want to blog for a living or be seen as a go-to reliable source, I suggest investing in a course or a book [on skincare ingredients and/or skin care formulation]. For example, Formula Botanica Diploma of Organic Skincare is a great course for beginners that will provide you a solid foundation on ingredients, formulation, and how to make products. Even if you don’t formulate skincare, you will understand how products are made and what makes them effective. This type of knowledge is a HUGE plus for a blogger. If you prefer a lesser investment, here are a few books that I recommend:

1)  The Holistic Beauty Book (Star Khechara)

2)  Carrier Oils for Aromatherapy & Massage (Len Price)

3)  Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetics Ingredients Dictionary

I prefer to work with bloggers who do their homework, and in general, I would like to see bloggers digging a little deeper. We have to continually challenge ourselves and dig. Even as a formulator, I continually invest in my education because I want to provide the best experience possible to my customers and show that I have done my homework.

What can you tell us about your new podcast series, The Connector Podcast?

O: I was hearing a lot of frustration and confusion and, as I mentioned, a lot of animosity between green beauty and mainstream beauty.  For me it’s not about hating or spreading fear; I want to help have a discussion and provide information from reliable sources.  We’ll bring specialists like scientists, formulators, aromatherapists and other brand founders, etc. and discuss issues like, “How important is the choice of ingredients when you are buying your products?” I want to create a place where people can learn, exchange and find some answers. We’re recording several episodes before we launch and are currently looking for guests who want to be on the show. If you are interested, please get in touch with me, and let’s chat!

What drives you?

O: I try to think, how can I be of service to people?  That’s my mission.  It’s a lot of work, and I’m trying to be consistent in order to: open minds, set a higher bar, deliver advanced high-performance products that rival the results from conventional beauty products. I want to start a conversation with other brands, rally others, and invite them to take part in the future of green beauty and make it kick ass.

What’s on the horizon for Okoko Cosmétiques?

O: I’m working on developing products that fill a need and bring something innovative to the table. We are launching our limited-edition Trésor, Summer Mist, to hydrate and protect, as a special summer indulgence. There are a lot of beautiful hydrating mists on the market, but I wanted mine to be different and highly functional.  Not only is it hydrating, but it contains lycopene and will also provide UV protection due to a special key active, Venuceane. Venuceane is an active ingredient from algae ferment that provides UV protection as well as protection against infrared rays and is actually heat-activated such that when the sun is hitting you, the protection becomes stronger. So you’ve got a hydrating, antioxidant mist that will also provide protection in the sun. I’m so excited about introducing Trésor, Summer Mist this summer because the UV protection is unique and really answers a need. Please note though, that this product does not replace your sun protection, it complements it beautifully.

Watch out for Okoko Cosmétiques. We are not just about the glow, but we are here to go above that and bring something valuable to the table.

What do you love the most about what you do?

O: One of the things I love the most about what I do is the personal dialogues I have with my customers. Knowing what you like, what you need, and how I can help you with your skincare objectives. Every product is made with love and care, from my hands to yours.

Most of all, I want these products to feel amazing for you, to deliver results and to become part of your daily ritual. There is everything you need to plump, nourish and repair. Prepare to look amazing! Exude radiance.

Thank you, Oyéta for this inspiring interview! Okoko Cosmétiques elevates self-care with the finest formulations.

Be sure to watch this space, because soon we will feature a second, updated interview with
Oyéta about the Okoko Gives Back initiative, The Connector, and what’s next for Okoko!

The post Exclusive Interview with Okoko Cosmétiques Founder Oyéta Kokoroko appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

I’m pleased to introduce my exclusive interview with Coyran Cheung, founder and formulator of OSCO, a natural and organic skincare line focused on pollution defense.  Coyran is a registered nurse whose lovely products reflect knowledge from her healthcare training and formal certification in organic formulation.  I hope you enjoy our conversation!  To find out more about OSCO’s offerings, be sure to check out my review of the line’s first release, Pollution Defense Serum!

Coyran Cheung

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?  (Perhaps you can elaborate on what you  have already said in your Bio on the OSCO website.)

Coyran Cheung:  I started my journey into natural beauty when I was 23. My whole face broke out due to hormonal problems and the use of synthetic skincare products. For years I was depressed with low self-esteem, and I did not want to face anyone. I tried many solutions, but my skin didn’t improve at all until I started to use natural skincare and changed my lifestyle. My skin improved although it did take time. From this time on, I put trust in the power of natural and green beauty. I treasure this great gift from nature so much because it gave me back my life.

I am a registered nurse who worked shifts in the hospital. It is a meaningful job but hard and stressful. I love caring and helping people solve their concerns. However, I found my work-life balance was missing, as I spent most of the time working and working. I didn’t have extra time to do things that I like. I am very passionate about natural and green beauty as well as formulating effective skincare products to help people solve their problems. I then decided to study the International Organic Skincare Entrepreneur Program at Formula Botanica to enhance my formulation knowledge.  I graduated from Formula Botanica in 2017 and became a professional organic skincare formulator. Finally, in 2018, I chose to give up my high salary and stable job to regain balance and chase what I really desire – helping people in another way and solving their skin problems.  Now I do what I love, and I created my skincare brand with my passion for natural and green beauty – OSCO Natural & Organic!

How has overcoming your skin challenges (hormonal acne, something so many women struggle with) informed the way you conceptualize beauty and also how you approach product formulation?

Coyran Cheung:  I know it seems hopeless and frustrating when you are facing skin problems. But I do believe beauty is simple, pure, and clean. Using high-quality natural skincare products and a simple skincare routine will help! Of course, a healthy lifestyle is equally important.

Many people suffer from skin problems– especially acne, blackheads, large pores, dry and sensitive skin, hyperpigmentation, etc. Pollution is one of the reasons for that. Also, people are busy nowadays and want everything to be convenient. Therefore, I formulated the Pollution Defense Serum to solve people’s main skin concerns caused by pollution, without requiring a complicated skincare routine. I used 100% natural and 80% organic ingredients that are high in antioxidants and essential fatty acids to protect and repair the skin as it faces the polluted environment every day.

 How did you become aware of and then passionate about pollution and skincare?

Coyran Cheung:  Pollution has become more severe nowadays, UV radiation, air pollution, light pollution, and ozone depletion are a few of the more obvious causes. Generally, people are aware of the dangers of pollution, but very few take action to protect themselves against it.

Our skin needs protection against the harmful effects of pollution. People don’t realize how easy it is to protect their skin and to fight against environmental damage such as UV exposure, air pollution, allergens, and even seasonal aggressors.

I care about people, and I am eager to help them become confident, protected, and healthy in a polluted environment. Our skin is exposed to a harsh and unnatural environment and bombarded with different synthetic chemicals; I would love to support people in their natural beauty journey, helping their skin and bringing them back to nature.

 What are the most important effects of pollution on the skin?

 Coyran Cheung:  Pollution can lead to different effects on our skin. Squalene and vitamin E are the main antioxidants of the skin; however, when exposed to pollution, these antioxidants will be depleted as they combat oxidative stress in the skin, causing dry skin. Moreover, microscopic pollutants may infiltrate deeper layers of the epidermis, causing inflammation and sensitive skin. Pollution can also lead to excessive sebum secretion, uneven skin tone, wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity by breaking down collagen and the lipid layer in the skin, impairing barrier function. Ultimately, pollution results in premature aging.

OSCO Pollution Defense Serum

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

 Coyran Cheung:  OSCO exists to raise your health consciousness, address your skin concerns and bring you back to nature by providing natural and organic healthy lifestyle products.
We believe every person is connected to nature from birth.
We believe holistic wellness builds a positive mindset, health, and beauty from within.
We believe beauty is simple, pure, and clean.
We believe confidence is beauty.
We believe protection and prevention are as important as a cure for health and skin.

 You are a Professional Organic Skincare Formulator with formal training from Formula Botanica.  What do you see as the most valuable components of this training?  How has this training enhanced the line you have now created?

Coyran Cheung:  I definitely love Formula Botanica and am so proud to be one of their graduates. They teach step by step from basic and everything you need to know about organic skincare formulation. They also create a warm community for us to share everything about green beauty. Besides, I appreciate how Formula Botanica supports their students and graduates by helping them promote their business as well.

I graduated from the International Organic Skincare Entrepreneur Program, which is a very intensive and informative course. It has enhanced my knowledge and networking in the industry, as well as the quality of the line I have now created.

What are your biggest overarching goals as a) a formulator of Pollution Defense Serum and b) as a brand founder of OSCO? 

 Coyran Cheung:  My goal is to change people’s view on face oil, as it is actually a great skincare product that is effective, gentle, and multi-functional. Unlike synthetic or mineral oils, natural and organic plant oils are similar in composition to the lipids on your skin, so they are easily metabolized by your body. We don’t need to worry about our pores being clogged up. Moreover, I hope to help people solve their skin concerns caused by pollution with Pollution Defense Serum, making them feel protected and confident.

As a brand founder of OSCO, I hope to increase my brand awareness in Hong Kong and overseas so that to raise people’s health consciousness, solve their skin concerns and bring them back to nature. At the same time, I hope to educate them on the advantages and benefits of natural skincare. I hope people would join the green beauty journey.

You chose a beautiful blend of potent and precious oils and extracts for your star product, Pollution Defense Serum.  Can you tell us your favorite thing about each ingredient and why you wanted to include it as part of your formulation?

Coyran Cheung:

• Jojoba Oil: contains same waxy esters as in human sebum and does not clog pores
• Watermelon Seed Oil: minimizes pore size and detoxifies skin
• Prickly Pear Seed Oil: boosts collagen production, evens skin tone, high antioxidant properties
• Sacha Inchi Oil: contains high levels of Omega-3 (Alpha-linolenic acid) that helps regulate oils production and lock hydration in skin
• Pomegranate Seed Oil: boosts collagen production and contains unique essential fatty acid Omega-5 (Punicic acid) is obtained from the seed of the pomegranate. It is a powerful antioxidant that can destroy harmful free radicals and prevent aging
• Rosehip Seed CO2 Extract: treats scar tissues and blemishes
• Seabuckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract: contains palmitic acid that protects skin from unwanted penetration of environmental substances
• Rose Geranium Oil: balances hormones and oil production
• Lavender Oil: anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial that reduces inflammation and promotes wound healing
• Red Mandarin Oil: purifies skin and maintains moisture balance in the skin

What are some common mistakes you see people making in their skincare and in their pollution defense, and of these what makes you cringe the most and why?

Coyran Cheung:  People usually like to use many skincare steps with many different skincare products. It will add burden and even irritate the skin. We believe beauty is simple, pure, and clean. We do not need complicated steps and routine to treat our skin. To cleanse, hydrate and repair, protect and moisturize our skin is enough to maintain our skin health and function.

In the polluted environment, very few people take action to protect themselves against it. Wearing masks, sunscreen, sunglasses and applying skincare products that are high in antioxidants are the simple ways to boost pollution defense. (Suggested article: https://osconatural.com/blogs/skin-care-1/8-easy-ways-to-protect-and-repair-your-skin-against-pollution)

 Besides, people like to use synthetic skincare products because they like the (artificial) fragrance and ‘effective’ results on their skin. Those ‘effective’ results are mainly due to the synthetic ingredients that may destroy some of the skin structures or be harmful to the skin (or even health in the long term) to give quick and visible results. However, when people stop using those synthetic ones, they may feel like their skin returns to the original condition and even worse. It may take time to see the results with natural skincare products (actually they are potent, high performance and effective), but I know you won’t be disappointed when you and your skin are overall in a ‘real’ healthy condition.

Moreover, I would like to educate people more about what is truly natural and how to screen their ingredient lists. There are many brands on the market claiming that they are natural when they actually are not. I hope to help people know more about the ‘real’ natural beauty industry so they can choose what will truly benefit them.

What is your process for creating a product?  Do you plan to launch other products in the line in time?

 Coyran Cheung:  Research and development process is very important for creating a product. I did a lot of research before creating Pollution Defense Serum. Trial and error is crucial as well. I will seriously consider and carefully select the packaging for different products to ensure its quality and benefits to the ingredients.  It really takes time, but I enjoy it very much. I plan for there to be more products in the line in future.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with OSCO Pollution Defense Serum?

 Coyran Cheung:  OSCO Pollution Defense Serum is different from many serums in that it lets your skin breathe. It is a high-performance facial oil with light and fast absorbing texture. You don’t need to worry about breakouts. It is suitable for all skin types. The scent of the serum is wonderful and relaxing. This serum is made with 12 potent and precious oils and extracts (100% natural and 80% certified organic ingredients) that are high in antioxidants and fatty acids (Omega-3, 5, 6, 7, 9) that your skin definitely needs. Pollution Defense Serum will protect, detoxify, repair and strengthen your skin’s fight against the polluted environment. Your skin will be improved with visible results (skin becomes supple and soft, skin barrier strengthened, pores minimized, skin tone improved) upon regular use without any burden.

 What is your philosophy on the use of essential oils?

 Coyran Cheung:  Less is more. I selected lavender, mandarin and rose geranium essential oils as they work in synergy and give a high performance to the serum which focuses on anti-pollution. The mixed scent of floral, green and citrus is soothing and relaxing. Another reason I selected these three essential oils is they are not photo-sensitive so that we can use it day and night.

Thank you for reading!

Check out OSCO!  See them on Facebook.  Follow OSCO on Instagram.

Be sure to check out my review of the line’s first release, Pollution Defense Serum!

The post Interview with OSCO’s Coyran Cheung appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Five Elements Skincare is a lovely natural skincare line from New Zealand.  In addition to enjoying and reviewing several of the products, I also had the privilege of interviewing Five Elements Skincare Founder Karen Mackay, a trained botanist who brings a deep knowledge of plants to her formulations.

Five Elements Founder Karen Mackay

What are the Five Elements?

Karen Mackay (KM): Ginkgo / Ginko–Extract of ginkgo biloba is very useful both for the skin and for the hair, it has a strong effect against the course of oxidative processes in the skin and also inhibits the activity of free radicals, it cleanses the contaminated skin and pores from sebum well, protects the skin from harmful external influences, and beautiful. It is used in anti-cellulite products because of its anti-edematous effect.

Olive Oil–Has a regenerating effect, smooths wrinkles, prevents their formation. Used to grow and strengthen hair. Due to the high content of antioxidants, it is often used in products for fading skin.

Plantain / Plantago–The extract contains vitamins C, A, K, tannins, mucus, glycosides, aucubin, bitter substances, a small amount of phytoncides and alkaloids, carbohydrates, saponins. It has bactericidal, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, cleansing and astringent action. Used in anti-inflammatory drugs, facial care, hand creams, after-sun lotions, preparations for the porous skin of the face, for sensitive skin.

Sorrel / Rumex–Conditioner for the skin, emollient, brightening effect, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory.

Rosemary / Rosemary–An indispensable assistant in the fight against acne, acne, well softens even the coarsest skin.

In addition to this base in the composition of organic rose hips, avocado, jojoba, essential oils of geranium, palmarosa and lavender. And that’s all. Nothing much, very natural composition.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

KM: To answer this question, I need to tell you my story about how this business started:

I was a practicing teacher for decades! (Maths, Science and Biology at secondary school level). Towards the end of my teaching career, I had a student in one of my classes who was scratching her arms to bleeding point with eczema. Every time I looked at this kid she was scratching herself and obviously in a great deal of discomfort; she was from a compromised family background, I felt sorry for her and one weekend (in October; I had been teaching her since Feb that year), I was determined that I was going to make a skin cream/ balm/ ointment that would soothe her condition.

I live rurally on our small sheep farm and knew what was growing in the area and what I had access to.  I sat down and researched the benefits of certain plants, how to make the appropriate extracts, balm etc. Shortly thereafter I gave this lass a tub of what I now call Skin Tonic, told her to apply it at least twice a day, or as needed and within four days her condition had completely cleared!! Initially, I thought that this response was a placebo effect…she liked me, wanted to please me…and her body had come to the party! However, over the next year or so, I trialed the product extensively with people who had all sorts of compromised skin conditions, including severe burns, wounds, eczema, dermatitis, rashes, blisters to great success; it even dampens down psoriasis and rosacea (those skin conditions that have an emotional trigger won’t be cured until the emotional issue has been addressed, but the Skin Tonic will significantly reduce the symptoms).

Given the extensive anecdotal feedback that I have now received from hundreds of people, this extract obviously provides the skin with a concentrated form of anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, and nutrients, and by enhancing blood circulation, allows for more oxygen saturation and provides a greater detox through the increased removal of wastes at the skin level. It was at this point of realization that I decided to make a skin product range that would contain as its core ingredient what we now call our Elemental Phyto-extracts.

The only product that you won’t find our Elemental Phyto-extracts in is the Sunscreen – I tried to include it, and it worked just fine, but after a few weeks, purple steaks began forming throughout the product and I realized that the mineral rich nature of the product was causing an oxidation of the potassium and manganese by the zinc oxide, to form potassium permanganate which is Condy’s Crystals. I didn’t think that people trying to protect themselves from excessive sun exposure would resort to purple steaks adorning their bodies, so I removed it from the ingredient list.

What are your biggest overarching goals as a) a formulator and b) as a brand founder?

KM: Customer satisfaction in terms of product delivery expectations.  No additives that will compromise the health of the user. To eliminate unnecessary ingredients and maximize the benefits of natural plant-derived extracts. Ethical and enviro-friendly practices. Sustainability of plant ingredients.

What is your process for creating a new product?

KM: We are always looking for better ways to develop new and helpful products. We have not formalized our approach to new product development, but listen to our customers; when they bring their suggestions, we try them out on at small scale first and then improve the formulation, keeping things as good and natural as they can be.

How would you describe the experience you want consumers to have with Five Elements products?

KM: Customer satisfaction in terms of product delivery expectations. No harmful reactions with use of the product. To engender a feeling of satisfaction that they are giving their skin the maximum nutrient benefit, in the most natural way, in order to maintain a healthy appearance.

Can you describe your signature Elemental Phytoextracts and how this makes Five Elements unique?

KM: Early on we identified the five healing plants, from which we derive our name: Ginkgo, Rosemary, Rumex, Plantago, and Olive.  These plants have been used in traditional medicine for hundreds, if not thousands of years and scientific studies back up their efficacy as healing agents.  This Five Elements extract is pure ‘skin food’; with a high concentration of anti-inflammatories, anti-oxidants, minerals, vitamins, and other beneficial phytonutrients.

How has your post-graduate degree in botany influenced your approach to skincare and product formulation?

KM: Comfortable with critiquing research, as well as growing and working with plants and understanding their nutritional needs. This knowledge enables me to provide an environment that maximizes plant health and therefore the quality of the extracts. I am familiar with working out formulas and ratios and laboratory techniques that are required for product formulation.

Five Elements uses locally-grown ingredients that are biodynamically grown.  Why is this approach important to you, and what additional benefits does it lend to your products and to the consumer?

KM: We farm organically and biodynamically, paying particular attention to soil health. This requires correct soil pH to allow the symbiotic bacteria to establish a healthy relationship with the plants so that they can maximize their soil nutrient absorption and in turn maximize their phytonutrient production. It also means that no artificial or synthetic products are going into the soil environment and being absorbed by the plants, which could potentially end up in the extracts.

Five Elements gives back to conservation efforts by supporting the Marlborough Bat Recovery Project.  How did you choose this cause, and why is it important?

KM: We live within walking distance of the beautiful Pelorus River Scenic Reserve, which is the home of one of the few remaining populations of long tailed bats in New Zealand; bats are the only indigenous mammals to our country! My husband, Don, is a member of a team of voluntary trappers of pest animals that pose a threat to the wildlife in this sanctuary, such as rats, mice and stoats. We believe in the beauty that exists in both people and in the environment, which we find ourselves in, and want to do our part to help make a positive and long lasting impact on our surroundings. We strongly believe everyone can play a role in making a difference in this world, no matter how small.

How can consumers outside of New Zealand enjoy your products?  Do you have any plans for international retailers?

KM: We are fortunate to have met many people from overseas who were visiting New Zealand, and I have had conversations with customers through cruise ship markets and with those who come to our shop in the local town of Picton. With many such people buying the product, liking it, and wanting more, this prompted us to set up an on-line presence. At the moment we receive a fair number of orders through our online store and stock our product in a few organic shops, mainly in Auckland.  We would like to expand when the time is right, to pass on the benefit of our products to a wider audience, and are presently exploring options.

How would you advise people to choose between the Skin Tonic Liquid and the Skin Tonic Balm?

KM: I suggest using the Liquid on the face and in the hair line, for ease of application – it is less gloopy; also on areas that are most compromised by a condition, as it contains 100% of the five plant extract. The balm equates to 85% of the extract and is recommended for the rest of the body.

Elemental Renewal Serum is so much more dynamic than the typical oil-based serums generally found on the market, in part due to the Elemental Phytoextracts, included at a whopping 50%. What sorts of benefits can customers expect to see given this generous amount of your Elemental Phytoextracts in this formulation?

KM: In formulating this serum, I wanted to include organic oils and essential oils that both complemented and supplemented the nutrient benefits of the five elemental phyto-extracts, but that were also user friendly and easily absorbed.

This is our premium product and is my personal favorite; it certainly ticks all the boxes with regard to repair, regeneration and maintaining skin vitality!

How would you advise someone to choose between Elemental Renewal Serum and Skin Tonic?

KM: If you don’t have a compromised skin condition, choose the ER serum, every time! If budget is a factor in your decision-making, you won’t be disappointed with the Skin Tonic Liquid. If your skin is sensitive and you have a sensitivity to essential oils, the Skin Tonic liquid would be a better choice.

Could you describe how you approach pricing and the ways in which you prioritize accessibility?

KM: May I just add as a final point that if you look at the prices of our product, relative to volume as well, we have kept the prices of the Skin Tonic Balm and Liquid, at a low and very cost effective price – our profit margins for these products are not at all high and deliberately so! From an ethical point of view, I want these products, as significant skin healers, to be affordable and within the buying reach of all who need and can benefit from their application.

Be sure to check out my review of Ms. Mackay’s products!

The post Interview with Five Elements Skincare Founder Karen Mackay appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Beige Dusk Greys is a delightful Etsy-hosted shop (and, in my opinion, one of the best on the wide-ranging platform) in which Dallas maker Andrea Rogers channels her creative powers and artistic talents to create two of her favorite things: handcrafted skincare products and fine paper goods.  An artisan with many talents, Ms. Rogers makes gorgeous stationery and parcel tags, but since I am skincare-obsessed, it was her skincare formulations that caught my eye.  I was searching Etsy shops for products with prickly pear seed oil and quickly found that–in a lovely blend with camellia seed oil, borage oil, jojoba oil, and house-infused fractionated coconut oil featuring nettle, rosemary, calendula, & thyme–and so much more in the Beige Dusk Greys shop.  Note:  many Beige Dusk Greys products contain coconut oil, but it is a special form that works well even on acne-prone skin.  Ms. Rogers is highly attuned to comedogenicity, so she uses fractionated coconut oil.  I am acne-prone and was initially nervous about applying anything with coconut oil–fractionated or not–but I was able to enjoy her formulations without any problems and feel totally comfortable recommending her line to others who deal with blemishes.

Andrea Rogers of Beige Dusk Greys

Ms. Rogers was exceptionally generous and gave me the opportunity to sample a true bundle of the skincare delights Beige Dusk Greys offers.  The shop is full of tempting formulations, but to get you started, here are some highlights.

Beige Dusk Greys Green Tea Oil Cleanser

Beige Dusk Greys Green Tea Oil Cleanser ($16)–-a light cleansing oil that easily rinses off cleanly, leaving skin fresh but not stripped and providing just the slightest hint of additional moisture.  The ingredients are nourishing, healing, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory, with the additional benefit of gentle antibacterial properties.  This is a great cleanser that effectively removes makeup yet never overdries; it leaves skin soft and smooth without any greasiness or heavy residue.  Green Tea Oil Cleanser is high-performance in terms of functionality and well-rounded benefits from its choice actives.  A very versatile product, this would work for all skin types, including acneic or sensitive.

Ingredients: Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Nettle, Green Tea, Chamomile, & Ginger Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower Seed Oil), Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, & Camellia Sinesnsis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract.

Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner

Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner ($12)–-a delicious, refreshing alcohol-free toner that has a naturally fragrant base of rose hydrosol with aloe juice for soothing hydration.  Along with antioxidant-rich rose, this toner also features Manuka honey extract (fantastic for hydration and healing) along with dynamic healing Royal Jelly (great for soothing nourishment, highly reparative).  The formula also includes gentle doses of lactic acid and Vitamin C to aid exfoliation and brightening; neither the is included at a level that would cause stinging or sensitivity, particularly when combined with the other soothing, moisturizing actives in the toner.  Unlike many toners that sting or burn sensitive skin, Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner is calming and cooling.  This is a wonderful hydrator that feels soothing on contact, and it offers great benefits for dry or sensitive skin.

Ingredients: Rosa Demascena (Rose Otto) Flower Distillate, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Aloe barbadensis (Aloe), Manuka Honey Extract, Butylene Glycol, Vegetable Glycerin, Apis Mellifera (Royal Jelly) Extract, Gluconolacctone, Sodium Benzoate, PEG -7 Olivate (Olive Esters), Glycerin, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, L-ascorbic Acid, Didecoldimonium Chloride, & Rosa Damascena (Rose) Oil.

Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm

Beige Dusk Greys Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm ($24)—a creamy, moisturizing balm that is perfect for nearly any skin type and divine for fussy or acne-prone types.  Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm has a light gel-oil sort of texture that sinks right in with only the lightest residue.  The lovely hue is thanks to soothing and gentle chamazulene, from both blue chamomile and blue tansy oils.  This along with beneficial actives like yarrow, indigo, and sacha inchi oil make this Balm a wonderful remedy for irritated and inflamed skin.  Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm is a lovely product packed with beneficial, soothing ingredients that calm troubled skin.

Ingredients: Indigofera Tinctoria (Indigo) Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Plukenetia Volubilis (Sacha Inchi) Seed Oil, Corylus Americana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Seed Oil, Achillea Millefolium (Yarrow) Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina), Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil (Olea Europaea), Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Tanacetum Annum (Blue Tansy) Essential Oil, & Chamomilla Recutita (Blue Chamomile) Flower Oil.

Now that I’ve piqued your interest with some of the lovely Beige Dusk Greys products, let’s meet the maker, Andrea Rogers!  Below is our interview.

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Andrea Rogers: In the spring of 2013 I started tinkering with some DIY recipes for a charcoal mask. I was having some hormonal acne breakouts and was trying anything I could to help it. I really enjoyed making the masks and started experimenting with serums and such and it kind of just grew from there. I was in grad school for 3 of those years, so it was my little hobby I guess you could say, on the side.

 How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

 Andrea Rogers: I think beauty and skincare is so individual that there isn’t a formula or solution that fits all. Because of that, I think that finding and curating a regime that works for you and makes you feel beautiful is important.

What are your biggest goals as a formulator/maker/founder?

 Andrea Rogers: My goals are to make an effective beautiful product. I’m an art person, so pretty things really inspire and move me. I don’t see why beauty products can’t do the same. In some ways, I view my products as functional accessories.

What are your favorite ingredients to work with, and why?

Andrea Rogers: Gosh, that a hard one. I love any beneficial botanicals I can infuse. I love playing with exotic oils, and really anything smelly, like essential oils.

What is your process for creating a new product?

 Andrea Rogers: Usually I come up with a concept, then find the necessary supporting ingredients and began with a basic recipe, and tweak it until it fits my liking. Sometimes though, I will find an ingredient that I love and build a recipe around that ingredient.

Are you self-taught?  Either way, how did you begin and what have you learned along the way?

 Andrea Rogers: I am self-taught. Really there’s so many excellent resources online. And I also have some books for reference. Practice is also an excellent way to learn. Once you know your materials well, it’s easier to predict what will happen. I have notebooks of notes I have taken along the way and that really helps.

What is your approach to preservation?

 Andrea Rogers: Preservation is obviously a must. I don’t use parabens and try and stay away from formaldehyde donors. I have a selection of preservatives that I use and I choose from there the most suitable for the product. I realize this is a touchy subject for some.

If you had to pick a favorite product or two from you line of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

Andrea Rogers: Probably the watermelon & moringa face oil. It’s just so versatile and feels and smells so good.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

Andrea Rogers:  I want people to experience the product as a beautiful object that helps make them feel beautiful.

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

Andrea Rogers: The greatest success is when I have repeat customers that really love the products. I hope that I can continue to grow this business into something bigger and have fun along the way.

You first started experimenting with formulation when you were experiencing some hormonal acne breakouts a few years ago.  What did you ultimately find effective in treating this issue that impacts so many of us?

Andrea Rogers: Honestly, I learned not to over-dry my face.  When the issue is hormonal, topical products can only do so much. Typical acne products dried my skin out, and removing all the oil wasn’t conducive for balance or healing.  I have oily skin, but I’ve learned to embrace it rather than fighting it.

You started formulating during grad school days.  What were you studying?

Andrea Rogers: I was studying studio art. I’m a print maker. I just graduated in May 2016 from a 3-year program.  My Etsy shop had gained some momentum by that point, and now it has taken over most of my time. I spend close to 40 hours/week devoted to running the Etsy shop and formulating. It’s an issue of time management and finding time for studio art.

Can you describe how you moved from making your own skincare to starting your own line?

Andrea Rogers: It was primarily just a hobby at first—skincare and soap.  I had more soap than I could ever use, but there was something so rewarding and soothing about making it. Friends and family loved what I made. They started buying my products, and after a while I expanded to Etsy.  The whole transition happened over a few years.  I wasn’t trying to make money, really; I just wanted to support my addiction to formulating and playing with stuff.  I’ve always been a maker.  I love it; it gives me meaning.

What is your background in art, and how do you think that influences the way you formulate and the overall aesthetic of Beige Dusk Greys?

Andrea Rogers: Being a print maker, you’re very process-oriented, and theres a lot of problem solving involved. Formulation is also very process-driven.  They’re both very aesthetic as well.

You are self-taught as a formulator.  Many consumers want to better educate themselves. When it comes to learning about and understanding individual ingredients, what are your favorite resources that you recommend (whether books, databases, etc.)?

Andrea Rogers: There are a lot of forums online that I’ve found extremely valuable. Also, DIY websites are useful to get a base recipe for something. There’s a supplier database as well, UL Prospector, where I can find out about ingredients.  I spend a lot of time online researching; I’m a thirsty person for information.

In terms of the iterations until a product is satisfactory, it depends. Sometimes I can get it in a few tries. Other products I still haven’t released because I haven’t hit the sweet spot yet after many trials. I spend a good amount of time with products before I try to sell them.

Is Beige Dusk Greys a full-time operation for you?  How have you seen your business grow over the last few years, and do you ever find it difficult to keep up with consumer demand?

Andrea Rogers:  First, it was just a little here and there. When people started responding well to my products, I got more invested, and sales have slowly but steadily grown since then. I’ve learned a lot and grown along with the business.

If someone has your Green Tea Oil Cleanser, Green Cleanse Face Balm, and Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator, how would you advise using each of them in terms of order, frequency, etc?

Andrea Rogers: For me, I like Face Balm at night for removing makeup. Green Tea Oil Cleanser and Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator are lighter and rinse off quickly, so they might be preferable for a time crunch or the morning.

I’m a huge fan of the Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator.  I’ve used so many exfoliators that are unnecessarily harsh and end up irritating skin rather than just gently exfoliating.  How did you manage to get this texture so perfect?   Tell us more about how you developed this.

Andrea Rogers: That took a bit of tweaking. You’d be surprised how much of the formula is actually clay; there’s a lot of body to it.  The smoothness to the texture comes from including the tiniest amount of olive-based wax. I didn’t want it to be too exfoliating, and the oils in the formula add a lubricating element so it’s not too abrasive.

I love both your Watermelon & Moringa Face Oil and the Plum Seed Face Oil.  Both are nourishing and hydrating yet miraculously do not break me out.  You also have another face oil called The Cure.  What do you see as the main differences between these three lovely face oils, and how would you advise someone to choose between them?

Andrea Rogers:  Plum Seed Face Oil is great for dry or mature skin. Watermelon & Moringa Face Oil is soothing with marshmallow extract and prickly pear, a good oil for anyone. Then there is The Cure, which has the lightest texture, but is is good for all skin types. I don’t formulate for a specific skin type. I try to formulate versatile products so it’s more a matter of preference. I’m not trying to cure something with my products, but in general I avoid comedogenic oils and ingredients, because there are so many great alternatives.

Your eye serum is so rich and luscious and extremely hydrating.  What key ingredients make it so effective for the delicate eye area?

Andrea Rogers: It’s probably the rosehip seed oil and the chia seed oil; the consistency of the final product was designed to be like an oily gel.

Can you tell us a little about your masks?

Andrea Rogers: I have a Pumpkin Enzyme Mask that uses pumpkin bioferment as a key ingredient. It’s designed to be a very gentle peel with the consistency of a light lotion. In fact, I designed it to be gentle enough that you can leave it on for anywhere from 10 minutes to overnight, depending on your preference.

The Honey Mask is an oily gel mask, and when I designed it, I wanted to avoid harsher, drying clay-based masks.

The Milk Jelly Mask is designed to be moisturizing and to feel good when you rinse it off.

What are your best sellers?

Andrea Rogers: Any of the face oils tend to be best sellers; when I formulate those, I want them to feel good, and there’s a variety for different preferences in terms of the texture from light to luxurious.  Also, the Face Balm is often a repeat order once people try it.

What’s the most surprising thing about running your business been so far?

Andrea Rogers: Right now I’m trying to get my line more established. Once I get that taken care of, and it’s getting there, I’m realizing that a lot of the work is not creating but actually running the business side of things.  In terms of getting more established, I haven’t started promoting Beige Dusk Greys much yet. People discover me and reach out, and it’s also been word of mouth.

There are so many people doing what I do that, for me, the investment is in repeat customers.  Between customer service (e.g., custom orders) and products, I’m focused on maintaining as much repeat business as possible.

There’s a rewarding aspect to it as well. Beige Dusk Greys is a way for me to celebrate a love for pretty things; I want the skincare to display nicely and, in a way, serve as functional accessories.  I think people are drawn to Beige Dusk Greys because they want to have things that are handmade and specific to them.

The post Beige Dusk Greys Founder Andrea Rogers on Finding Artistry in Formulation appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Every now and then, I encounter a formulator so exacting and talented that I would (and will) beg to try anything they create, even sight unseen, simply because I am in awe of their artistry.  Such is the case with Janice Buu, the founder of Kana Skincare and chief formulator of its out-of-this-world Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask.  I was so impressed that I had to interview Ms. Buu, and she graciously agreed.  Now, without further ado, I am thrilled to introduce you to . . .

Janice Buu, the Visionary Founder of Kana Skincare

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Janice Buu (JB):  I was looking for natural hemp products for my father during the recovery of his bypass surgery a few years ago. I researched a lot but did not find many products that I liked in the natural skincare industry. I come from a background of health and sciences, so I quickly became interested in the subject of natural skincare formulations and decided to make my own for those who also believe in plant-based sciences.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

JB: Beauty presents itself when we balance our health + nutrition mentally, physically, and spiritually. I am a firm believer in total plant-based philosophy! It is the most natural way to treat, enhance, and boost what our body needs while being environmentally friendly.

Where did you get the idea/inspiration for Kana Skincare?

JB: I am American born-Chinese Korean. My mother was born and raised in Korea, hence the strong Korean culture influence on me. She has always made her own facial “masks” with things she pulls out of the fridge. I watched her by the kitchen counter cutting up cucumber slices, mixing yogurt with honey. She even washed her hair with beer! (This is almost 30 years ago!) We would put the cucumber slices all over our faces, eyes, and eat the extras that were left on the plate while chatting away at night. So as you can tell, I grew up with different views of skincare compared to my peers. My friends’ moms went to the mall and bought the newest products introduced by sales reps. It wasn’t till I was older then I realized why she always stuck by natural skincare and if she couldn’t find them, she would make them – because she had extra sensitive skin.

Combined with my research on hemp a few years ago, I thought it would be perfect to marry the two -Hemp CBD + natural Korean skincare formulations/recipes. At Kana, we test everything on myself first, before employees, before friends and family, etc.

For our first product, I am recreating the fun, bonding experience of face masking for mothers and daughters, hence our first product is the Hemp CBD infused Sleeping Mask, except 30 years later, I made a jar full of 28 active botanicals with all natural skincare formulation + aroma.

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

Tell us a little bit about the magic of CBD as a skincare ingredient.  How did you discover its potential?

JB:  CBD is a magical ingredient that treats eczema, sensitive skin while giving it vitamin A, E, C, and amino acids. It also has strong anti-inflammatory properties, making it great for soothing/relaxing agent.

The first time I tried CBD was when I was testing out a new batch of pearl powder. I mixed some CBD, pearl powder, milk, and raw honey downstairs on my kitchen counter and applied it as a face mask, washed it off after 20 minutes and as always, it felt really good! It wasn’t when I woke up the next day, I found the overnight brightening effect, super smooth skin, and I glowed for days after, even my blemishes were reduced. So I started researching on each ingredient and separating them to test on my skin to see what it was that gave me such magical overnight effect. It was CBD!

Can you describe the process/journey behind creating Kana Skincare Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask, taking it from vision to reality?

 JB:  The sleeping mask R&D alone took about 1.5 years. It probably could have been shortened to a year, but once we got all active botanicals to sync and it worked exactly as we envisioned, then I was very picky on the consistency, texture, color, and aroma. All ingredients must be organic and/or natural, including the production process. If it wasn’t perfect, I wasn’t going to release it. Someone even joked, “Janice is not going to approve it till 2020.” I think I drove the team crazy at one point, hahah.

There was definitely a LOT of trial and error. Ideas, vision, business plans, strategies are always just different parts of the outline. Ideas form better as we practice it more and more.

Can you describe some of the cultural attitudes you have encountered, both here in the US and in Korea, to CBD?  Have these attitudes/misconceptions been hurdles for launching your product in either place and if yes, how so?

JB:  CBD is still a new ingredient in the US. I definitely think we need more education on proper use of CBD and how it may benefit us in health + beauty. It is gaining its popularity quickly on the west coast and moving to the east. CBD is only allowed for research purposes in Korea as of right now.

You have blended CBD with 28 other botanical ingredients to the effect of a hydrating, anti-inflammatory masterpiece.  What things were you going for when you selected the many various ingredients?

JB:  I was going for anti-aging and natural brightening/glowing look, so lots of anti-inflammatory agents, cell regenerating boosts, wrinkle fighters!

Why did you want to create a sleeping mask specifically?

JB:  When we sleep, our body is working hard to repair and heal us from within. So I wanted to take advantage of this and put the body to work along with these active botanicals. I travel and fly around a lot. Our bodies are dehydrated, and we break out. Although sheet masks are fun and helpful at times, it’s definitely not for someone who’s on a tight schedule. Many times, I would accidentally fall asleep with sheet masks left on my face, after a long day of meetings! Only to wake up to my sensitive skin crying for help, seeing the rash, breakouts, patches of my skin would be flakey for days after. Then I thought, if I want to mask, I want to be able to fully relax, I don’t want to wake up in 20 minutes just to take off this mask, then apply the rest of my skincare routine, then go to bed. Why can’t I just sleep with a mask?!

Although I love sheet masks, it’s a fun activity to do with your girlfriends and last minute solutions to that wedding invitation you have in a few hours!

(I see a lot of travelers and even skincare companies advertise sheet masking on the plane. It is a horrible idea, and any reputable aesthetician would be able to tell you, that they will not give you a facial in the dumpster!)

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

Everyone who tries Kana will find themselves falling in love with nature, and all things natural. The aroma of the sleeping mask puts all the beauties to sleep on a field of lavenders. They will wake up feeling refreshed with a natural glow. Aromatherapy is practiced in all of our products so the beauties can achieve mental + physical health/beauty all in one step.

Efficiency. We live in a fast-paced society where we demand results and minimalism. Kana shortens skincare routines, provides proven and efficient results.

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

We have customers returning to purchase more masks for their mothers, friends, and themselves. Great reviews from press & beauty bloggers, editors all over the world. We are about to release our CBD + EGF active botanical essence in 2 weeks! There are people already pre-ordering without even testing essence samples! I am very thankful for the love and trust of people who believe in Kana. I hope countries that have not yet legalized CBD can take a step forward and look into the benefits of CBD and how it may benefit us all, especially patients. Kana will continue to create amazing health + beauty products that enhance the lives of our people.

Do you have more products in mind?  Can you give us any hints of what is to come?

JB:  Yes! We have some formulas currently in development and in the final human-testing stage, next release is EGF + CBD infused active botanical essence (28 active botanicals)! This is going to be a super fun addition for the beauties to use in their skincare routine, or to replace their existing serum with.

EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) makes a great partner with CBD because they are both healers. EGF is found in our body since birth, however, it diminishes as we grow older (in our 20’s! don’t want to believe this… but it’s true.). Without EGF, our skin elasticity would be loose! So I thought the two can partner up and help us! EGF can focus on regeneration of the cells, fight wrinkles, while CBD soothes us, packs our skin with vitamins + amino acids, and heals any inflammation!

Now Available!  Just-Released Kana Skincare CBD + EGF Active Botanical Essence

Kana Skincare’s Recently Introduced CBD + EGF Active Botanical Essence

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

The post Meet the Visionary Formulator and Founder of Kana Skincare appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Iremia Skincare Founder Elaine Li

After having the pleasure of trying and enjoying Iremia Skincare Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil (see full review here), I was delighted to have the opportunity to interview Iremia Skincare Founder Elaine Li about her journey and mission.  Ms. Li struggled with sensitive skin for years and was unable to find anything on the market that gently, effectively healed her skin, so she set out to create the ultimate skin-soothing line in Iremia Skincare.  Learn more about her process and inspiration below!

Can you briefly describe your own skin difficulties and the frustrations you encountered trying to find sufficiently high-quality and soothing products in other lines?

Elaine Li (EL): I have suffered from skin problems for as long as I can remember. Looking back, it really was because of diet and stress but I didn’t connect the dots. Eczema, hypersensitivities, and redness are my main culprits. Every time I feel anxiety or stress or if I eat certain foods, my face turns hot and red. My eczema flairs up and itches like crazy. I remember trying different creams that were catered “for sensitive skin”, but as I put them on they would burn my skin and I had to quickly wash them off. Some other high-end creams that I have tried made me feel like it was doing something, but it really wasn’t. I would break out, or the product just wouldn’t be effective after a while. It was really frustrating not being able to find something that would help manage my skin.

Another frustration that came about was around transparency. Just two years ago, a natural, steroid-free cream came out just for eczema. It was a dream come true for myself and my son based on all of the before and after photos I saw of people using it on their babies. I naturally purchased it and it did work wonders. However, it turns out that it really wasn’t steroid-free! I felt betrayed. I’m all for transparency and integrity when it comes to what goes in and on your body. I never want this to happy to anyone, ever.  So now I use my own Protective Cream and Facial Oil on my son and newborn!

How do you think your own history of skin challenges have influenced you as a formulator and enhanced your formulations?

EL:  I want to create products with intent. If I don’t have a clear vision as to what it needs to do or how it can help someone, I won’t make it. There needs to be some sort of multi-purpose element to it as I’m a believer in simplifying your routine so that there is less clutter. Less clutter = less stress and less waste! My skin challenges are ongoing. Elements of your life (Diet, home life, work) are always changing so it was important to create something that can be used according to your situation. The products can be layered however you want. On some days, I use the Facial Oil on my face and hair. On others, I layer all three of them for extra hydration. I wanted my formulas to also be safe for my babies, and my husband! It was frustrating finding something that the whole family could use. My children use the Protective Cream and Facial Oil and my husband uses the Soothing Lotion.

Iremia Skincare Soothing Lotion

What care and effort have you put into ingredient sourcing?

EL: All ingredients were thoroughly researched and need to obviously be completely natural. I look for purity as well if it can directly help calm the skin. My second priority (besides hydration of course) is to look for other benefits, such as anti-aging properties. For example,  I decided to include a natural anti-aging active ingredient in the Soothing Lotion for it to truly be multipurpose (i.e., African Mahogany Tree Bark Extract). It’s something I use every day on my skin and I have seen huge improvements in redness, pore and wrinkle reduction.

Can you describe some of the time, study, effort, and experimentation that went into creating your beautiful Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil?

EL: I have been struggling with my skin since my early 20’s, so it’s taken me a long, long time to get to this point. Years of trying different products, writing down what I like, what I don’t like, what worked, what didn’t really helped me decide what ingredients to put into the formula. A lot of reading was done around active ingredients as well as digging into research papers and clinical studies. I decided to formulate starting in late 2016. It took a few months, but finally, I created the recipe that worked in the Spring/Summer of 2017.

You describe a less-is-more philosophy to skincare regimens.  Can you elaborate on the importance and value of quality over quantity and explain how you embrace this philosophy with Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil?

EL:  This philosophy resonates with me in so many ways. It really started at home and with being more conscious about what and how we buy everyday items. I don’t want to purchase something that is inexpensive but will fall apart in 2 years. You end up buying more, which has a bigger impact on the environment. Buying and using products consciously is important to me. Same with time. I have a 6-year-old son and a 4-month-old daughter, plus 2 dogs! So I don’t have a lot of time to fuss around in the mornings and evenings. Creating products that would help me without using 7+ items was as important as the environmental impact. The Soothing Lotion has everything I need in it – it calms, soothes, hydrates and decreases fine lines and wrinkles. The Restorative Facial Oil also has all of the superhero oils I wanted in one bottle. The best part is that it can also be used in your hair. I also use it on my baby and keep it on me all the time.

Which 3-4 active ingredients in each product do you consider highlights and/or particularly vital and beneficial when it comes to Soothing Lotion and Restorative Facial Oil, and why?

EL: The Soothing Lotion has a blend of Shea Butter, Aloe, Calendula, Lavender and Manuka Honey. It’s so hard to choose, as they are all vital and beneficial for the skin. Each one has soothing, anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties, which is why I wanted them all in the Soothing Lotion. The best part is the African Mahogany Tree Bark extract, which is clinically proven to strengthen the skin and reduce wrinkles after 56 days of use.

With the Restorative Facial Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Rosehip Oil, Argan Oil and Seabuckthorn Oil are all vital within the blend. There are 11 oils in total to make up this multivitamin, all of which provide the skin strength. It soothes and balances while increasing elasticity and helps diminish scarring.

Iremia Skincare Restorative Facial Oil

What experience do you hope people will have with Soothing Lotion?  With Restorative Facial Oil?

EL:  The Soothing Lotion was made to calm the skin whenever there is redness or flare-ups or inflammation and heat on the face. It can also be used on eczema patches as well. Even if you don’t have flare-ups, it glides on as a beautiful daily moisturizer. With a powerful blend of luxurious ingredients, the Restorative Facial Oil will leave your skin feeling soft, plump and hydrated. With no added fragrance, you are experiencing the natural properties of the ingredients. Since the whole line is around calmness, I truly hope people will find that in my products.

What current trends or pressures in the beauty industry frustrate you and which ones excite you, and why?

EL: I do feel that there is pressure for people to have “perfect”, flawless skin. I believe that we have been conditioned to think that skin is supposed to look a certain way. Everyone is so different, with variety when it comes to lifestyle, diet, stress inducers. No one is perfect as we are only human! Things change, especially with age. I believe in healthy skin, and that starts from within. Treat your body with love, and you can embrace your skin as is at whatever moment you are in. Another frustration is the pressure to have immediate results with products. I also had very high expectations of the different creams I have tried in the past and expected my skin to take to it and to be amazing right away. We again have developed a sense of immediate gratification (I blame this on technology!). I don’t believe there is a “miracle” product. Products take time to work, and your body takes time to adjust. There are just too many factors at play.

What is exciting is that there has been a shift in mindset to embrace what you were born with. For myself, it has taken years to get here. To really love me for the way I am. It’s also exciting that people are open to smaller brands and more Indie brands are moving into the spotlight. They come from a place of passion, and I find it really refreshing!

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

EL:  As a small Indie brand, I thrive and focus on small successes. However, I’m proud of the product and what it has done for the people who have tried it. I take each review seriously and every purchase with such a grateful heart. There are plans for the future with expanding the product line, with intention of course, as well as looking into different distribution channels. I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. For now, I’m just so grateful for my supporters.

The post Interview with Iremia Skincare Founder Elaine Li appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Having already expressed my own thoughts on Formula Botanica (here and here), I wanted to get some additional perspectives on the training, as well as how others have experienced the community.  I invited the school’s Director, Lorraine Dallmeier, as well as a handful of Formula Botanica students and graduates to share their views on their experiences with the school and its global community.  I appreciate each of their contributions to this article and encourage you to discover the exciting work each is doing.

Formula Botanica’s Director: Fostering Community

Lorraine Dallmeier, Formula Botanica Director. Courtesy of Formula Botanica.

Director Lorraine Dallmeier, recognized HuffPost Organic Beauty contributor, and consistent award-winner of Top 25 Who’s Who in Natural Beauty

We love our community dearly and have met so many talented, inspirational, passionate and fascinating people all over the world. Our community is what sets Formula Botanica apart from all other online courses. Students come to us for our award-winning courses and end up staying for the community. We have invested years of time and effort in growing our community from scratch to a global platform for formulators in green, clean and organic skincare/haircare. Once a year we then host a live conference where we can meet our community members face to face and I have to tell you, this is the absolute highlight of the year for us.

At the start of our 2017 conference in London (which was held 10 days ago), I opened the conference by saying that our community is an enormous source of inspiration, strength, and support and that students should never view each other as competitors but instead as collaborators, friends and even potential new business partners.

We’ve seen students form firm friendships across the world through Formula Botanica. We’ve seen students fly to each other all around the world to meet and study together, thanks to Formula Botanica.  We’ve seen countless students share valuable information, inspire each other and lift each other up. We’ve seen countless students share successes and celebrate together. We’ve even seen students partner together in business after meeting through our community: OK Homelab  is a great example where two Formula Botanica students met in Russia and decided they were stronger together so they went into business together! You can read their story here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BRkJo5NgEve and https://www.instagram.com/p/BP8BmlsAhEg (You’ll need Google Translate.)

We have built our community through many, many hours of engagement while encouraging students to share their stories,  share their successes and use our community to help support them when they need it. Our overriding objective is to provide a safe, friendly space where we can educate, innovate and formulate.

Formula Botanica Students and Graduates Review the School

The community comes together at the Formula Botanica Conference Workshop, 2016. Photo Courtesy of Formula Botanica.

Rachel Devine, founder of R Devine Organic Skin Care, winner of 18 Hamilton Reader’s Choice Awards, 3 National Awards, a 2016 Forty Under Forty Award, as well as Alumni of Distinction Award from Mohawk College in the Entrepreneur Category

I had been playing around with some formulations on my own before taking this course, but I wasn’t confident in them.  I had done a lot of research, and my formulations were fairly good. However, once I took the course, my formulations went from being ok to professional quality.  I learned so much more about specific ingredients, mixing products together, as well as laboratory set up and preservation that I had no learned on my own through research.  My skincare line wouldn’t be what it is today without this course!

I also really enjoyed the online structure.  I am located in Canada, owned an aesthetics business at the time that I took my course, and also have two young children.  Attending a school would not have been an easy option for me.  Taking the course online made taking this course possible.  The information in the course was really easy to follow, and the school’s customer service was amazing whenever I needed support.

I also really loved connecting with other skin care formulators, networking with them, and all learning from each other’s experiences and experiments.  I still remain in contact with a few of them today, as well all grow our lines parallel to one another.

Discover R Devine Organic Skin Care here.

R Devine Sacred Earth Botanical Cleansing Clay–recently honored as one of the best holistic products of 2017 by Holistic Beauty Magazine. Photo Courtesy of R Devine Organic Skin Care.

 Ashleigh Tatum, founder of Laurence Vale Organics, an Australian line of highly-effective handmade natural skincare

I instantly found Formula Botanica to be a very encouraging and supportive environment.  I absolutely love reading through all the posts in the online forum [the Facebook group exclusively for Formula Botanica students, graduates, and staff]; it’s encouraging to see other people that have similar struggles to myself succeed and overcome the issues they were facing.  I’m a member of a few other online groups, and in other groups, there is always the occasional nasty comment or people don’t want to share too much, as it seems they don’t want people to succeed and outdo them.  This is not an issue in our [the Formula Botanica] community; everyone is helpful, supportive, honest, and encouraging.

I also find it very comforting seeing Lorraine and all the other staff comment so frequently on posts; it makes me feel like they really do care about their students and their success.  I founded my business Laurence Vale Organics on a simple mantra learned through Formula Botanica: ‘keep it simple.’  I make a small range of skincare that truly focuses on helping treat common skin concerns like dehydration, excess oil, pigmentation, flakiness, chronic dryness, and sensitivity.  Through studying with Formula Botanica, I’ve been able to learn that for a product to be beneficial, it doesn’t necessarily have to be jam-packed with ingredients.  I use a wide range of natural ingredients, but I only put in what needs to be there.  Although I’m due to launch in November, I’ve already had a huge response from my local community, and it’s all been positive.  I owe it all to Formula Botanica.

Discover Laurence Vale Organics here.

Laurence Vale Organics Pink Clay & Honey Nutrient Rich Masque

Sara Runser, founder and formulator of Lily De Mai, an exquisite line of high-performance skincare–designed specifically for sensitive skin–that harnesses the purity of nature and the power of science

My favorite thing about Formula Botanica is Lorraine Dallmeier and Dr. Elham Eghbali’s commitment to science and evidence-based formulating.  There is so much misinformation in the beauty industry, particularly the green beauty community.  I’m so grateful as a skincare entrepreneur that they have educated so many makers, consumers and industry people about the chemistry and science behind green skincare.

In terms of how Formula Botanica has elevated my business, I took an Ideal Customer Master Class with Lorraine and Elena Herdieckeroff.  It was the most valuable marketing class I’ve ever taken. It helped me envision and speak to my ideal customer from every angle.  Knowing who my ideal customer is and how to talk to her has been invaluable.

Discover Lily De Mai here.

The Lily De Mai Facial Collection. Photo courtesy of Lily De Mai.

Jale Demirichi Cinisli founder of Jalue, an international skincare brand based in Turkey that blends ice and the finest herbs–for innovative cryotherapy—and Ms. Demirchi Cinisli was also recognized by Natural Beauty News Who’s Who Top 25 Personalities of 2017

I have an educational background in Management and Marketing – and apart from having a huge interest in skincare, I didn’t really have what it takes to make a skincare brand. Blogs and books will only take you to a certain point. I discovered Formula Botanica and decided that it would be an unmissable opportunity to build my knowledge. What was great with Formula Botanica is that it was never boring. There weren’t pages of theory to learn and memorize. It was practical, you learned stuff, you created stuff and then you got tested on your knowledge! Before Formula Botanica I used to make a lot of creams on my own – and it was so difficult. For example, every time I used Coconut Oil or Shea Butter as my main ingredients the consistency of the cream was really hard and it used to freeze – and I had no idea why. My Formula Botanica degree taught me the reasons why, and the solutions to the most common problems like those.

Formula Botanica supports its students and graduates – it is more than just an education platform. I suppose it is more like a community. There are hundreds of people like you-you learn from one another, and you encourage one another. Lorraine herself was very supportive – she helped promote Jalue and did an excellent job with it. It is of course always great when you get an email from management team telling you how much they love your products and brand. Encouragement is one of the most important things for any startup, and Lorraine and her team have done an excellent job with it!

Discover the unique and innovative offering of Jalue here.

Jalue Ice Therapy complete with herbal sachets and reusable silicone ice cone applicator. Photo courtesy of Jalue.

Chaya Caroline Guitton, current Formula Botanica student and author of the enlightening blog Dandelions & Daisies

What’s so great about the Formula Botanica online school is that you are never alone in your journey!  Besides the high quality of the course information and its structure, it is more than your average online course.  The director of the school and the wonderful staff and tutors are always there for you to answer any technical questions and to offer support and encouragement.  The online classroom Facebook group offers a goldmine of information and emotional support as well when we have our doubts or when we simply want to share our accomplishments.  The webinars they offer and the scientific research library available to students are priceless. It is a fantastic, caring community where we all connect, as we have pretty much the same ethics and dreams of learning to make natural skincare and eventually sharing this knowledge with the world after months of hard work.  I am hoping to start my own line of botanical skincare here in Bordeaux, and to give some workshops and personal guidance to creates specific formulas for individuals with particular skincare needs.  Formula Botanica is there to promote you if you would like, with all their many contacts and heavy use of social media they are more than happy to show their followers the progress and success of their students, like proud parents!  It is so cool to know that even when you are finished with the course, they will still be right behind you.  My new blog, which I never would have had the idea of starting if it wasn’t for the business and marketing advice also included in the course, is a perfect example of how the school is there to show you the way, not only in formulating, but in how to market yourself as well.

You can follow Chaya’s formulation journey on Instagram, Facebook, or her blog.

Cosmetique Natural Bordeaux Cherry Pink Body Body Butter, created by Chaya Caroline Guitton.  Photo courtesy of Ms. Guitton.

 CJ Fisher, Formula Botanica student and noted Beauty Blogger

Every time I look at the Formula Botanica Facebook group, I always see a plethora of questions.  The thing that sets this community part happens in the comments.  It’s so nice to scroll through the comments to see so many people eagerly adding useful bits of information or providing an alternative perspective.  From what I’ve noticed, almost every question that is asked or every problem that arises is quickly solved with the help of many rather than a single individual!

You can see CJ’s Beauty Blog here.  I highly recommend his Anti-Haul videos like this one.

Beauty Blogger CJ Fisher

Additional Formula Botanica Reviews

If you have read until the end and still want to know more, several Formula Botanica graduates have written about their experiences with the school on the blogs of their respective businesses.  Here is a handful of them.

• Formula Botanica Review by Liz Ayling of Alchemy du Corps
• Formula Botanica Review by Heather Urquhart of Huna Apothecary
• Formula Botanica Review by Timi Racz of Natural Skincare Workshops
• Formula Botanica Review by Rumbi Serima-Fowler of Mimi’s Organics
• Formula Botanica Review By Teresa Foo of Balm Kitchen

You can also read over 260 verified reviews of Formula Botanica on Trust Pilot, where it’s worth noting that 94% are 5-star reviews, and 4-star reviews account for the remaining 6%.  Finally, you can also read in-depth interviews with many Formula Botanica graduates from all over the world by visiting the school’s blog here.

Want to see for yourself?

You can Sample a Formula Botanica Class for Free!  Start your formulation journey today, no commitment required.

Courtesy of Formula Botanica

The post Formula Botanica Students and Graduates Tell All appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.