Sarah Duran of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare

How have your training and experience as an esthetician informed and influenced your approach to formulation and your goals for Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?

Sarah Duran (SD): I was fortunate to have great teachers when I was an Esthetician student. As part of our program, we were required to take chemistry and our professor would bring in her special cart filled with essential oils and simple ingredients to formulate things like hyaluronic acid gel and goat milk powder and clays to make masks. That is where I initially got the bug and my first taste at formulating. After my first couple of years of hands-on experience working with clients and learning about various skin types and conditions, I realized I wanted to continue to learn formulation so I could customize each treatment with ingredients I knew would be more beneficial and less irritating or sensitizing then the vast majority of what I was seeing being offered in the spa or to Estheticians. I then continued my education in cosmetic chemistry at UCLA Extension. My foundation to properly do a skin analysis and understand skin biochemistry came from studying for my license and my continued education at UCLA with Rebecca Gadberry as well as graduating from Formula Botanica. That foundation is what my brand has been built on. I can’t imagine formulating without the knowledge of what ingredients work best with what skin type, tone or condition. Every ingredient I source that makes its way into a formula is first driven by purpose.

How would you describe the beauty and skincare philosophies behind Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare?

SD:  My beauty and skincare philosophies behind my brand are simple, to restore the skin to a state of homeostasis and create a skincare ritual to bring you back to self-connection or as my tagline states to restore to calm. If we can inspire consumers to value taking time out of their busy schedules to treat themselves to ten minutes of “Mei” time, alone, in front of their vanity mirror, gently massaging in their cleanser, breathing in the calming aroma of lavender, followed by applying their vanilla infused facial oil and honoring their skin and all its been through, every smile line, knowing that you’re providing nourishment, energy and strength to each cell, then we’ve accomplished our goal.

Right now, Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare offers two dynamic products, Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum. Why was it important to you to launch with a tightly curated line of hero products? Do you anticipate expanding the line with any additions in the future?

SD:  I wanted to create formulas that have been born out of research and awareness of common skin concerns and how to address them. My products have been purposefully created to synergistically work together to reduce inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier.

I based my launch on two products that were my clients’ favorites on my Etsy shop. Yes, I first established my brand on Etsy for about a year before launching my official website in May of 2021. This gave me an opportunity to create customized products for clients and a way to charge and ship them. I decided to launch with two anhydrous products that not only were effective and repeat sellers, but because they were anhydrous it was easier to scale up if needed and keep costs down for outsourcing testing in a lab.

I plan on launching a few products in the next two years. I’m basing them on what is frequently used when giving facials so it will appeal to not only consumers but Estheticians as well. I’m currently working on an acne powdered mask, an enzyme exfoliator, and a brightening serum for hyperpigmentation. Both water based products will be thoroughly tested for efficacy, stability and preservation in a lab.

What are the biggest mistakes you see people making in their skincare choices and routines, and how do Renew Oil to Milk Cleanser and Everlasting Facial Oil Serum help clients avoid these potential pitfalls?

SD:  When I see clients for the first time and notice they have a compromised skin barrier; redness, dry, flaky, sensitive skin – I start to ask questions about what they use, how often, etc. I’m surprised by the trends people follow that can have adverse effects on their skin. For example, using the wrong products for the wrong skin type, or over exfoliating by using harsh exfoliants that aren’t meant for use as a daily cleanser. If for instance, you wear lots of makeup you may need to double cleanse, but if you don’t, or are just waking up in the morning, a gentle oil cleanser is enough to clean your skin without stripping it. Our Everlasting facial oil restores the natural moisture barrier and contains Bakuchiol which was shown in a study to be effective in improving acne by reducing excess oil and has antibacterial properties; it also stimulates collagen synthesis and can be worn in the day with no photosensitivity. Finding products that are effective yet do not sensitize the skin is important for homeostasis. We offer products that multitask and keep the skin smooth, supple and harmonized.

What is your process for creating a new product? 

SD:  My process when I’m creating a new product always starts with how I want to address the issue i.e. breakouts, dry skin, hyperpigmentation. Once I do that, then I decide what type of product I want to create such as a toner, mask, serum, cleanser, etc. Once those two things are decided on then begins the research and restless nights thinking about ingredients. I’ve created a folder that has data on ingredients I’ve obtained samples of from the manufacturers or other ingredients I’d like to use. Each section is categorized by common concerns I’d like to address to help me stay organized. Once I’ve honed down on my ingredients that are compatible, then I create the formula. It then takes time to test the formula and create samples. Once I’m happy with the formula I begin stability testing which could take months. When I’m finally ready to try it out I give samples to friends and family for feedback.

Anti-aging:  do you view it as an offensive term, a false marketing concept, a worthy pursuit, or something else entirely?  Why?

SD:  I don’t want to be defined by age. I believe beauty is timeless and we all grow old and wiser with age. The term Anti-aging is just that..a term. I aim to encourage women to accept aging with grace. I like to refer to anti-aging instead as pro-aging. I think we can all look our best with a little help and a good skincare routine. A healthy attitude and lifestyle goes a long way in keeping you looking your best at any age. I’m not against plastic surgery or anything one does to enhance their beauty. It’s a personal decision and I say do you. Who am I to judge what makes someone feel good about themselves. It’s not about words; it’s about self-perception, awareness, and being at peace internally.

What is your philosophy on exfoliation, and what are your thoughts on how to strike a balance without overdoing it and causing damage to the skin barrier?

SD:  I think exfoliation is an important step in your skincare routine. As we age, our skin needs a little help to shed that dead skin as it takes longer to do on its own. When you exfoliate, you not only remove the dead skin cells, but you aid in new cells coming through. Your products absorb better, and your makeup goes on more smoothly. If you are breakout prone, you need to exfoliate so your dead skin does not build up as food for bacteria causing more breakouts. However, for skin that is normal to combo, you only need to exfoliate 1-2 times a week. If you are breakout prone, 3 times a week is plenty. You can cause more dryness and sensitivity to over exfoliate by removing natural lipids that help to protect the skin barrier.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your brand and products?

SD:  I want my consumers to enjoy their daily cleanse and look forward to it. After you’ve washed your face and get ready for your day or end your day and are getting ready to sleep, your skin will feel good, refreshed, soft. If using the Everlasting facial oil, and you look in the mirror and see how your skin glows, I want you to smile at your beautiful self and feel beautiful. When people come to my Instagram profile I want them to find a community of acceptance and positivity.

After using my Renew oil to milk cleanser, you are left with skin that feels clean, yet supple not tight and dry. A daily cleanser should not strip your skin and I genuinely believe that less is more. Less acids, less foam, less exfoliation.

My Everlasting facial oil was created for all skin types as a daily moisturizer with added pro-aging actives such as Bakuchiol and White Lupin seed, both proven to be effective in the synthesis of collagen and increase elasticity and firmness in the skin. I say pro-aging because I believe it is inevitable that we are going to age, but we can do it gracefully and embrace it. It Restores the natural moisture barrier and infuses the skin with antioxidants and omega-rich 3,6,9 nourishing oils. It also absorbs easily into the skin leaving it smooth, supple, and moisturized.

Every package that goes out includes dried roses and a handwritten thank you note sealed with wax. I want each unboxing experience to feel like a present because it is, it’s a present to yourself or gifted to you by a loved one. My brand is about self-love and treating yourself to great quality natural skincare you can feel good about and that feels good on your skin.

What do you see as the greatest success of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare so far and what are your hopes and dreams for the future?

SD:  So far I’m just grateful to have launched my website this year with two award winning products. I hope to create additional products for my line in the next few years to offer a full range of skincare, yet keeping it simple and essential. I also would like to expand my reach to consumers by creating relationships with other Estheticians to sell my products as well as retail locations both online and in person boutiques.

The post Interview with Sarah Duran of Pure•ly Mei Botanical Skincare appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Janet Schriever, Code of Harmony Skincare founder, approaches her passion for clean, multi-benefit cannabidiol (CBD) skincare with impressive commitment and energy.  Her products synergistically combine hemp with a luscious array of soothing plant-based cosmeceuticals.  Code of Harmony Skincare formulations are loaded with active ingredients yet designed to nurture even sensitive skin, with a strong emphasis on soothing the symptoms of irritable and problem skin and promoting youthful vitality.  In addition to doing tons of research on ingredients and formulation, Ms. Schriever has taken classes at UCLA and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and recently enrolled in a 40-hour-a-week esthetician school as well!  Somehow, she also finds the energy to singlehandedly manage Code of Harmony Skincare, an indie beauty line that she has singlehandedly crafted start to finish.  If Ms. Schriever is particularly committed to Code of Harmony and its customers (with whom she genuinely enjoys connecting), perhaps it is because she knows the potential her products hold as well as the huge weight that is lifted when a person finally finds a fix for troubled skin.  For decades, Ms. Schriever herself struggled with and tirelessly sought a topical solution to help calm her rosacea, which led her to discover the soothing benefits of CBD.  Knowing she was onto something, Ms. Schriever built Code of Harmony Skincare—the original beauty-focused CBD line–out of a genuine love for the skin benefits.  Looking at her clear and glowing complexion now, I am eager to incorporate Code of Harmony products into my regular routine.  Indeed, it’s hard to believe Ms. Schriever’s skin was ever troubled; today at 50, she exudes radiance and easily looks 15 years younger.  Lucky for me, once I started using her high-performance products, a bit of that youthful luminosity seemed to rub off on me.  (You can read my reviews of Code of Harmony Skincare here and here!)

Code of Harmony Skincare Founder Janet Schriever

Are there any misconceptions about CBD that you would like to clear up right off the bat? 

 Janet Schriever (JS): CBD won’t get you high.  My products won’t cause you to fail a drug test or smell like weed.  Also, people sometimes assume that Code of Harmony Skincare is hippie-dippy or that it’s simple and homemade because CBD is the star ingredient, but in reality, my formulas are very complex.  For example, the delivery system I use, Safflower Oleosomes, work in a time-released fashion and gradually releases the active ingredients.  When it comes to beneficial ingredients, I use a lot of them; every ingredient in my products has been chosen because of its skin benefits.  There are no ingredients there just for sensorial effect or fragrance because I want everything to serve the skin rather than just serving the formulation.

 How did you get started in skincare?

JS:  I looked at the skincare I was using and noticed all the fillers and things that really didn’t need to be there—about 98% of the formulations were fillers and ingredients that weren’t helping skin.  I wanted formulations with ingredients there to truly benefit skin. I originally started making products by myself with every soothing and anti-aging ingredient I could find.  I had no intention of selling anything.  I hate to say I was going for something gentle because the products are actually very efficacious, but I didn’t want them to worsen skin problems or cause irritation.  I spent a ton of time doing trial and error and conducting research.    My research led to discoveries like the fact that chamomile, despite being soothing, can cause a reaction in a number of people, myself included; I went a little deeper in my research and found that the calming component in chamomile, bisabolol, gives the same benefit without the risk of reaction [hence, the reason Code of Harmony uses bisabolol extracted from chamomile rather than the full-spectrum plant].  I would love to put all the botanicals on the label, but for people with sensitized skin, often highly-purified extracts deliver more optimal benefits without irritation.

What has your journey been as a formulator?

JS:  I’m 80% self-taught.  I took some classes at UCLA and some workshops here and there for some formal training, but most of what I know I’ve learned through research.  At first, I was reading a ton, but I wasn’t discerning enough about the source.  Eventually, I stopped reading blogs and informal publications and started reading clinical trials.  I also used my own experience, looking to other products and ingredients that have worked well and are proven effective.

Can you describe your own skin frustrations, how you discovered CBD, and the difference it made?

JS:  I struggled with rosacea for years, and it was bad off an on, but at 46, it really flared up.  I spent several years experimenting, doing DIY projects trying to find and create something to get my skin under control.  It was a long experimental process.  I started another skincare line briefly.  Then I went to a meeting with an organization called Women Grow that supports women getting into the cannabis business.  I was not particularly interested in cannabis being a business, but I was slightly curious about CBD.  At the meeting, I learned about CBD and what it could do internally in the body.  It immediately clicked for me that it could be a fantastic skincare ingredient.  At the time, CBD in skincare was primarily targeting pain relief, and there were not any beauty-focused CBD lines on the market.  I decided to try it, and it took the products I had been making to a whole new level.  My skin responded beautifully, and I soon got confirmation that others’ did as well.

What are your favorite benefits of CBD for skin?

JS: The calming, soothing benefits are pretty great.  Studies have proven we have an endocannabinoid system in our skin that responds to CBD, and when that system is toned, you can see good results. CBD is wonderful at helping to alleviate the symptoms of acne, eczema, rosacea.  It’s also a great ingredient for sensitive skin and aging.  If you react to some skincare or have trouble tolerating a lot of it, you may have better luck with a CBD product.  That said, every CBD skincare product has to prove itself on its own merit.  They are not all created equal!

Have there been any challenges related to introducing a CBD line specifically?

JS:  I spent an entire year trying to educate consumers about some of the basics about CBD. The type of CBD I use is not going to get you high or test positive on a drug test.  The CBD isolate I use in Code of Harmony Skincare is completely free of THC (e.g., tetrahydrocannabinol, the chemical compound in cannabis responsible for the high), so what they test for in a drug test is completely absent.

A report by market research firm Brightfield Group notes that hemp-derived CBD is still treated as a controlled substance by the U.S. Drug Enforcement Agency despite the fact that it will not get a person high or test positive on a drug test.  Why is a non-psychoactive substance being treated as dangerous, and what challenges does this present to Code of Harmony Skincare as a small independent business?

JS:  The US government has a patent on CBD as a neuroprotectant and antioxidant and yet maintains that CBD is not therapeutic.  It is still a Schedule I Drug according to the DEA, and the DEA treats CBD the same no matter where it’s derived.  In their eyes, hemp-derived CBD is the same as cannabis-derived CBD.  However, we have to remember who actually makes the laws—Congress, not the DEA.  The problem that this creates for me is consumer perception.  The consumer is confused about whether they can legally buy a CBD product.  Yes, it’s legal; the DEA will not come arrest you.  The Farm Bill says that hemp-derived CBD is legal as long as it is under 0.3% THC [note: Code of Harmony Skincare’s hemp-derived CBD isolate contains no THC], and luckily the stigma is lessening as people realize how safe and beneficial it is.  There’s no reason that hemp should not be 100% legal without any “grey” area or question about where it is derived.  Hemp is grown for all sorts of purposes—paper, clothes, food, medicine.

Many CBD beauty companies encounter banking difficulties due to federal regulations. Has it been difficult to obtain the financial backing you need, and how have you managed?

JS:  Code of Harmony Skincare has faced the same issues with banking that any cannabis business would.  Most banks will shut down merchant processing, and this has happened to me several times.  Larger CBD companies have resources to work this out, but I am self-funded and doing everything myself.  Customers have to buy Code of Harmony Skincare by virtual check.  A lot of customers get put off by that because it can make them start wondering if it’s an illicit purchase.  Really, it’s just a banking issue and not a legality issue, but it has certainly been a challenge for my business.  In terms of larger funding issues, there has been interest from investment companies, but unless they understand the CBD market (which most don’t), it may seem like too much risk for them.  Regulatory issues have made growth slower for me.  As a small business owner who is self-funded, it has been daunting at times.  CBD is a great ingredient, but if it were easy to incorporate CBD into products, you would see all the big corporations jumping on the trend.  Still, I think it [the trouble] will be worth it.  CBD is still new on the market, still seen as somewhat of a novelty ingredient.  I keep hoping things will get easier (business-wise) as CBD’s benefits and safety record become more common knowledge.

What is your approach to formulation?  How did you decide on the additional beneficial ingredients to include in each product along with CBD?

JS:  I’m a big proponent of natural and botanical ingredients and use a variety of them in Code of Harmony.  [Indeed, Code of Harmony ingredient lists feature an array of precious botanicals like Sea Kelp Bioferment, Tremella Mushroom Extract, Safflower Oleosomes, Goji Berry Root Extract, Licorice Root Extract, Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Guava Seed Oil, Watermelon Seed Oil, CoQ10, Pomegranate Oil, Sea Buckthorn CO2, and many more!]  I use them whenever possible, but I also use cosmeceutical extracts, vitamins, and antioxidants.  It’s not easy formulating products naturally.  What many consumers don’t understand is that full-spectrum plant extracts are strong, and there are often a lot of things in them that can irritate and inflame skin.  I love botanicals, and I choose the most efficacious ingredient that is best for the formula.  For instance, I use CBD-isolate rather than the full-spectrum hemp extract, as I use extracts like Centella Asiatica, Resveratrol, and Bisabolol to deliver the benefit without risking reaction.  Yes, they are highly purified, concentrated, and standardized plant extracts, which contain only the benefit and much less of any potential irritant. A lot of this goes against what people want to believe, but not every plant extract is good and not every synthetic is bad; a lab-created ingredient or extract may deliver equal or greater benefit and be a lot easier on the skin than something directly from a plant.

What have you learned about what it takes to launch and run a successful skincare line today?

JS:  I made a ton of mistakes and said yes to things I shouldn’t have.  The main takeaway is this, though:  if you stare down your fears, they eventually go away.  The success I have had is due to blind faith and a ton of work.  Through Instagram and events, I have met really cool people who trust and love Code of Harmony Skincare products.  I’ve really loved the aspect of connecting to my customers, and there’s been a lot of really great support and excitement.  It’s been unexpected and very cool.  That said, I am still very small and still growing.  I have much to do before I will feel secure about calling my business a success.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

JS:  I like a combination of natural and high-performance ingredients in my products.  The market tended to have very natural and organic products without much efficacy (they don’t offer much to skin issues).  On the other hand, traditional fully synthetic products with synthetic emulsifiers and lots of fillers are not helping the skin either.  Traditional skin care formulations can also cause irritation and are far from “clean.”  I wanted to create products with a natural emphasis that were full of every beneficial calming/soothing/nurturing ingredient I could find.  I wanted the products to be gentle in the sense that they won’t trigger irritation yet highly effective and results-driven.  Because I am not a traditional cosmetic chemist (and most of them learn in the lab and on the job), I don’t use a ton of surfactants or lab-created ingredients that are used in traditional skin care.  I came at this with the intention that every ingredient in my products should benefit and serve the skin.  I didn’t want filler ingredients in the products, so you won’t find white and fluffy creams in the line; my products are sort of a light ochre color because of the botanicals and antioxidants in them, and they have natural scents that come from the ingredients that are also helping your skin.

Janet Schriever

How is  Code of Harmony Skincare unique among CBD-skincare lines?

JS:  I blindly jumped into this, because I loved it.  I was the first to create a CBD-enhanced “clean” beauty line.  I have put a lot of love, faith, and time into crafting my products.  Now CBD is becoming a hot ingredient, and there are a bunch of lines popping up.  Some of these other companies white-label [i.e., buying their products from a huge producer and then rebranding it to make it appear like they made it].  I would love to see other brand owners put a little more time and thought into their formulas and sourcing, so they know exactly what they’re selling, what every ingredient does, and why it is in the formula.  So even if you are not the chemist, you can be aware of what you are selling and the potential benefits and risks.  For the consumer, you still want to find thoughtfully-formulated products with good reviews.  I choose every ingredient in my products to serve the skin, and my line shows that.  I strive to keep Code of Harmony Skincare accessible rather than pricing it out of range.  I am able to keep prices reasonable because I don’t have a lot of overhead.  It’s just me, and I’m not paying myself.

Code of Harmony Skincare uses a CBD isolate rather than a full-spectrum extract.  What are the advantages of this?

JS:  I find the isolate is less allergenic than the full-spectrum.  The isolate has the terpenes taken out, so there’s no scent, and this is greatly preferred by most people.  Taking the terpenes out lessens reactivity.

What current trends or pressures in the beauty industry frustrate you and which ones excite you, and why?

JS:  The clean beauty/indie thing happening right now is awesome.  Code of Harmony uses clean formulas that are free of fillers and harsh synthetics and full of rich phytonutrients, soothing ingredients, and anti-aging actives.  I think this is a smart approach.  At the same time, though, I think people need to get a little more educated about clean beauty because things are less black-and-white than a lot of consumers believe.  There are a lot of black-and-white attitudes without much digging deeper, and a lot of people are rule-bound to a fault, saying, “I will not use chemicals on my face,” when everything is chemical, or, “I’m not going to use anything I can’t pronounce.”  Some vendors put their consumers at risk by not using preservatives in products that require them.  Then there’s the sustainability issue.  I’m all for natural ingredients, but some things will actually be more sustainable when they’re not taken from nature—such as Sandalwood Oil or Hyaluronic Acid (that used to come from only an animal source and is now created in a lab).

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

JS:  The response and interest have been great.  My business has been very much about integrity and being transparent.  I try to give people realistic ideas about what to expect or not from each product.  The other thing to know is that the whole line has come from one person from start to finish.  I have done everything myself.  In terms of success, I am still so new!  There’s been a lot of interest from estheticians who want something new and effective.  There’s also been a great response from clients with hormonal cystic acne, rosacea, and other skin troubles; people send me dramatic Before and After pictures.  I don’t solicit these, but they send them in out of gratitude for the transformation they’ve seen in their skin.  Indie Beauty Expo (IBE) has been really invaluable in getting press exposure.  I participated in IBE’s BeautyX live deskside pitch contest, Deskside Domination and was chosen by Glamour, Allure, and Fat Mascara podcast as the winner.  This is huge for a little indie brand like me!  It proved to me that I am doing something of value.  I don’t plan on going anywhere.  I’m really passionate about this and not just jumping on CBD as a fad.

Read my reviews of Code of Harmony Skincare here and here!

The Code of Harmony Skincare Collection

The post Code of Harmony Skincare Founder Interview: Meet Janet Schriever appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

The creator of I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS, Ms. Lacerte, is a renowned medical esthetician with more than two decades of experience in an array of medical esthetics specialties (including working with patients facing cancer or serious burns). Despite her wisdom and impressive experience, her smooth skin appears untouched by age–surely a testament to her incredibly advanced vegan formulations for I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS along with dedication to a healthy lifestyle.  Ms. Lacerte has a deep understanding of skin and what it needs.  For example, as she has wisely stated on I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS’ social media, “I believe that our skin is so much more than just our outer covering.   It’s the outside of our inside and although it has evolved to protect us, our skin is still very sensitive and vulnerable and constantly under attack and so it needs our protection.  That’s why I make raw organic skincare products that will feed, nourish, protect, and love our skin.”  I am delighted that I had the opportunity to interview Ms. Lacerte, and you will find more of her insights below.

My Interview with I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS Founder Anis Lacerte

What is the story behind how you became a skincare formulator and an entrepreneur?

Anis Lacerte (AL): I became an esthetician in 1993 and did an aromatherapy training as well as plant medicine, and by 2003, I started developing skin peels and it quickly became a full line of skincare products. I wanted to use organic plant-based products for my skin that at the time I could not found in stores. I started working with a chemist and decided to do lots and lots of research on ingredients and plants and realize I wanted to focus on an anti-aging and skin correction products.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

AL: I use nothing but 100% botanical ingredients, nothing harmful, formulated for particular actions. I formulate to assist the body in calming the nervous system and enhancing the skin. This also assists in the regulation of the immune system. I believe plants heal. Phyto-Medicine is the future of health and skincare. I also love peptides, especially copper Peptides for skin healing. I believe in quality over quantity  meaning no mass produced ingredients. We spend up to 75% of our costs on raw ingredients for certain formulations, so you aren’t just paying for a pretty bottle, you’re paying for what’s inside.

How has your extensive background as a medical esthetician—along with experience helping burn survivors and cancer patients–informed your approach to skincare and product formulation for your outstanding line, I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS?  What did those patients teach you about healing and rejuvenating skin?

AL: In the 90s and early 2000, I was working with several plastic surgeons and helping with patients with scars from burns or mammectomy. I started doing microneedling using a tattoo machine and a single needle to relax the scar tissue. The patients were excited to try any new techniques. We worked with microneedling, peptides and plant medicine.

How is I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS enhanced by your additional studies of plant botany, herbal medicine, Ayurveda, and traditional Chinese medicine?

AL: We pack the most ingredients at the highest levels of concentration to deliver maximum results without a single drop of artificial chemicals.  We use Miron violet glass bottles and jars to keep our ingredients fresh, and craft our products from the highest quality plants available. We source more than 300 different ingredients from over 68 countries. The best organic ingredients come from all over the globe – and Tata leaves no stone unturned to find the best. We believe in quality over quantity that means no mass-produced ingredients. Most brands will get clinical feedback on a raw ingredient and put the bare minimum in the formula to deliver just the bare amount of results possible because that’s the most cost-efficient way to make products. But we believe more matters. If science shows that a result requires a minimum of 0.1% you’ll likely see much more than that percentage (and anywhere from 2-4X what our competitors put in) to deliver what we find is the absolute best possible result to our clients.

Could you please suggest a few standout I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS products that you would most highly recommend for each of some specific skin challenges?

AL: Below are key I’M FABULOUS products targeting each concern.

Signs of Aging—Copper Peptide Serum,  Caviar Serum, Luxurious Organic Serum, Retinol Cream, Peptide Collagen Repair Cream,  Bio Gorgeous Peel, TCA Cleanser, Powerful Volumizing Serum, Super Peptide Eye Serum, Power Anti-Aging Eye Cream

Acne— TCA Toner, TCA Cleanser, Blemish Potion

Dryness—Caviar Serum, Luxurious Organic Serum, Retinol Cream, Peptide Collagen Repair Cream, Bio Gorgeous Peel

Redness/Impaired Barrier— Niacinamide + B3 serum, Renew Serum

Pigmentation—TCA Toner, TCA Cleanser, Bio Gorgeous Peel, Super White Bio Serum, NIacinamide + B3 Serum, Vitamin C Brightening Serum

What are your favorite ingredients to work with, and why?

AL: With organic anti-aging ingredients that play an essential role in diminishing the visible signs of aging without the side effects of chemical ingredients. Botanical extracts contain antioxidants and help in retaining the youthful appearance of the skin by smoothening wrinkles, fading spots, reducing skin inflammation, and preventing oxidative stress.

What are some common mistakes you see people making in their skincare, and of these what makes you cringe the most and why?

AL: To spend most money on makeup and nothing on skincare, they rather cover their face with makeup to hide imperfection instead of making their skin glow. Most of them realize later as their ages that it is better to take care of the skin at an early age to prevent deep wrinkles and fine lines.

How have you created such an extensive line? What is your process for creating a new product, and do you have anything in the works right now?

AL: I wanted a line that address every skin type and skin condition. I read a lot about new ingredients, research a lot and always look for the new peptides or anti-aging ingredients and includes them in my formulas. I always want to stay on the top of the anti-aging research and formulation.

If you had to pick a favorite product or two from you line of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

AL: All of them, I use all of them, I alternate all my serums, creams and peels. The My ultimate favoite are the Luxe Cleanser, the Seaweed toner, the Caviar serum, the Bio Gorgeous peel, the Powerful Volumizing serum and Super peptide eye serum.

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS?

AL: To fell in love with our products and never stop using them.

What current trends or pressures in the beauty industry frustrate you and which ones excite you, and why?

AL: Nothing frustrate me, I am a very positive person and I focus on my brand and not what others do. I am excited by the fact that now people are getting more educated on what they put on their skin and realize it is better to use organic skincare and makeup, then the ones loaded with toxic ingredients and preservatives.

What do you see as the greatest success of I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS so far and what is your vision for the future of your brand?

AL: Hopefully to sell it one day to a big brand.

Thank you for such a wonderful interview, Ms. Lacerte!

If you love gorgeous plant-based skincare like I do, then you won’t want to miss my full review of two I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS treasures, the TCA Toner and High Tech Copper Peptide Serum 10%.  Follow this link!

The post Interview with I’M FABULOUS COSMETICS Founder Anis Lacerte appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Okoko Cosmétiques founder Oyéta Kokoroko is well known in green beauty circles for her uniquely high-performance luxury skin care products, and hardly a person (myself included) can encounter her without commenting on her radiant complexion and uncommon beauty. Yet what lingers after a conversation with the Okoko Cosmétiques’ founder is her passion for excellence, her desire to unite foes for good, and her drive to elevate green beauty to its highest performance yet. As our interview reveals, Okoko Cosmétiques is ready to take part in the future of green beauty.  With the help of Okoko Cosmétiques Team Members Natalia Lavaggi and Sui-Ling Chin, Founder Oyéta is a green beauty visionary on a mission.

I read that your interests in wellness and green beauty were inspired in part by your desire to heal health concerns you had when you were young.  You educated yourself in naturopathic medicine including holistic nutrition and herbal medicine.  What are the most important things you’ve learned about natural healing?

Oyéta (O): I view natural healing as involving a combination of inside and outside changes.  When I first explored these issues, I had some health challenges that were linked to my lifestyle; when I began consciously improving my diet and paying attention to my lifestyle (by exercising, managing stress and taking time for relaxation), my problems went away.  The changes I experienced were amazing, and I became very interested in ingredients found in my food. You know what they say: “Let food be thy medicine.’ The good stuff, the simple foods, the plants foods, the fruits, the nuts, and the vegetables are really what the body needs to heal itself and be healthy.  If you are interested to know more, watch the documentary called “Hungry For Change.” It’s one of the best out there and it says it all.

We live in a highly toxic world and it’s important to take necessary measures to reduce the impact on your body, health, and environment. Try to reduce process foods, support your Farmer’s market, buy organic and fresh whenever possible, do a gentle cleanse from time to time and “clean your beauty routine” are a few steps in natural healing. As I said, the way I see it, healing is holistic. Take care of yourself inside and out. Eat clean, exercise regularly and do things that make you feel awesome. I also think that healing involves thinking about your own life story and working to be in a good place mentally. So yes your life story, state of mind, and thoughts really matter too.

Can you describe how and why your line brings together the best of botanical skincare and scientific skincare to produce such amazing results?

O: I studied natural organic skin care formulation, and most people don’t know this, but I also studied conventional skincare formulation as well.  Mainstream products are still the bulk of products sold on the market, and even though I approach things from a perspective of green beauty, I want to be informed and educated about the industry as a whole.

I find it important to study the conventional market or try to stay abreast of the latest conventional actives. I spend my free time researching novel ingredients and reading clinical studies. I’m in touch with chemists, suppliers, and pharmaceutical companies.  I’m passionate about natural and green, but I still want to work together with others with specialized knowledge. I learn from them, but at the same time, if they are a supplier, I don’t just take their word for it; I read the clinical studies and do my own digging.  I am a researcher at heart.  I like to understand what I’m buying and using—whether it’s food or beauty—really anything I’m using. I aim with my line to deliver ingredients of only the most extraordinary quality while doing good by supporting eco-driven suppliers and small cooperatives from around the world.

Can you tell us about your new mission and vision for Okoko Cosmétiques?

O: I want to bring together the good from modern science-based formulation with the best in green beauty, taking the valuable aspects of both and combining them.  I took the time to listen to green skincare consumers, and what I what I learned is that they want green formulation with proven natural active ingredients to amplify results. This feedback is really what inspired me to combine the best of natural skincare with safe, clinically tested actives. I am committed to innovation and ultimately I want to provide a top-level product line that includes bioferments, botanical extracts, functional actives, enzymes, etc.  I want my green products to deliver results on par with conventional products. But I will not use low-quality, mass-produced ingredients or fillers in my products.  If I say I can deliver something (with Okoko Cosmétiques), you can be sure I’ve done my homework on it.

At times, there’s a lot of hate between green beauty and mainstream beauty, but for me, it’s not about spreading fear; it’s about bringing something new and different to the table. I think natural skincare should be effective, not just safe. I think consumers have the right to expect more from their beauty products. Not just “safe” or “non-toxic,” it should go above that and help to improve your skin for the better. My goal is to bring green products up to the same level of results as conventional products.

What’s your process as a formulator?

O: I start with a need or a problem to solve and start imagining a product to do it.  I asked myself, what would be the benefits? How would it feel on the skin, and what ingredients do I want? Then I will imagine and develop my dream product that would do exactly that. I LOVE the development phase because I get to experiment a lot and try different combinations, textures, scents which is an incredible experience for a beauty alchemist like me. I research ingredients and actives that can help solve the problem, and then I determine through more research which of these ingredients work well together.  Then finally I formulate. Because of all the thorough researching, it takes a year even many years to formulate a product depending on its level of complexity.

What hurdles have you run into as a green beauty formulator?

O: I often hear people in the beauty community say things like “the chemical stuff just works better.” First off, what is the chemical stuff, lol? There are lots of amazing green beauty brands that have launched incredible products that perform as well or even better than their conventional counterparts. I realize that there is still lots of work to be done to promote natural alternatives. Many people still think that natural skin care doesn’t work or that they will not see the same results they were used to, which is completely false.

Another challenge is, as formulators, we have a responsibility to make products that are safe.  For example, a lot of people right now are against having preservatives in their skincare, but without them, products can end up being truly dangerous. If [a product] goes bad, someone could be harmed; people have ended up blind. We have to ask ourselves, which is the bigger danger using a preservative or leaving it out?  In the chemical industry today, there are more and more naturally-derived preservatives, so it’s possible to research carefully and choose a safe and natural one.

How do you use the products in the Okoko line?

O: The masks [Gentle Facial Treatment LA BOUE DE BEAUTÉ and Clay Face Mask LA D’TOX NOIRE] are great for relaxation and preparation.  The masks also make the serums [L’ÉLIXIR DE CLARTÉ (The Radiance Elixir) and L’ÉLIXIR DE PURETÉ Sang du Dragon (The Dragon’s Blood)] more effective, enhancing results.  After serum, I will follow with the Radiance Serum and Youth Oil LES 16 PRÉCIEUX (The Precious Oil) and then Sublime Balm.  For a truly amazing glow, I’ll mix Sublime Balm and a few drops of The Precious Oil together and then apply. And my skin looks and feels amazing!

I know this may be somewhat akin to asking you to choose a favorite child, but which of your products are you most proud of creating?

O: Haha, that’s a good question. I will need to think about it because I truly love the entire Okoko line and I find that each Okoko product works in synergy and you will see better results by using them together. But if I had to choose, maybe The Sublime Balm or The Dragon’s Blood serum. . . .

When I created Sublime Balm, people would tell me they had never seen anything like it, and it was very appealing [with lycopene from tomato oil in a sumptuous blend that includes mango butter, cacao butter, carrot tissue oil (rich in beta carotene) astaxanthin, turmeric, and rosehip oil, all balanced with white clay, bisabolol, and calendula to soothe and repair].

The Dragon’s Blood, even the name is a head-turner. This formula is designed to address a number of challenges. It was inspired by a custom formula I initially created for customers who had problematic skin. We received incredible feedback and I decided to elevate its formula. One of the key ingredients, Dragon’s blood, is a resinous sap, a healing red latex harvested from Dragon’s blood trees which contain taspine, a remarkable tissue-healing agent. I love this serum so much because it promotes skin renewal and healing in such a special way.  Niacinamide powerfully addresses inflammation, discoloration, and signs of aging.  This is a soothing serum, but it also provides gentle exfoliation with willow bark and pomegranate enzymes.  I injured myself (with a curling iron), and I have used The Dragon’s Blood to heal my scar.  I just put up Before and After pictures of my scar with no makeup [on Instagram] so that people can see for themselves how this serum performs.

[Oyeta reflects on this for a moment and smiles.]

I love the whole line. It’s me. I put my heart and soul into Okoko and I’m dedicated to creating and delivering safe, effective skincare products that can help you achieve optimal skin health and healing for real skin issues.

What do you most want your customers to get out of using your products?

O: I designed Okoko Cosmétiques to deliver a spa experience with true effectiveness. Okoko offers the opportunity to indulge and see results. There is everything you need to plump, nourish, repair and exude radiance.

What are some of the misconceptions people have and mistakes you see people making when it comes to skincare?

O: I see a lot of women with hundreds of products, especially bloggers.  Many people tend to use way too many different products and actives at once without knowing how they will mix and without giving each product a systematic chance to work.  I understand that bloggers work with brands and try new things, but with so many alternating products, how can you even begin to tell what’s working and what’s not?

Another mistake I see a lot is that people forget to keep their own needs and their skin type in mind and will use a product just because their best friend does despite differences in skin type.  When the product disappoints, is it really that the product is bad or is it just a poor match for that person’s skin?  Perhaps I didn’t see results because it was not formulated for my skin type.

Other common mistakes I see are:

• Not paying enough attention to ingredients
  • Putting too much makeup on to cover up
  • Not being consistent with your skincare routine

In this same vein, I would really like to see bloggers specify their skin type at the beginning of review articles so that readers can take the review in appropriate context.  I also see a lot of bloggers and consumers not doing their own research to verify and back up their claims.  If you want to blog for a living or be seen as a go-to reliable source, I suggest investing in a course or a book [on skincare ingredients and/or skin care formulation]. For example, Formula Botanica Diploma of Organic Skincare is a great course for beginners that will provide you a solid foundation on ingredients, formulation, and how to make products. Even if you don’t formulate skincare, you will understand how products are made and what makes them effective. This type of knowledge is a HUGE plus for a blogger. If you prefer a lesser investment, here are a few books that I recommend:

1)  The Holistic Beauty Book (Star Khechara)

2)  Carrier Oils for Aromatherapy & Massage (Len Price)

3)  Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetics Ingredients Dictionary

I prefer to work with bloggers who do their homework, and in general, I would like to see bloggers digging a little deeper. We have to continually challenge ourselves and dig. Even as a formulator, I continually invest in my education because I want to provide the best experience possible to my customers and show that I have done my homework.

What can you tell us about your new podcast series, The Connector Podcast?

O: I was hearing a lot of frustration and confusion and, as I mentioned, a lot of animosity between green beauty and mainstream beauty.  For me it’s not about hating or spreading fear; I want to help have a discussion and provide information from reliable sources.  We’ll bring specialists like scientists, formulators, aromatherapists and other brand founders, etc. and discuss issues like, “How important is the choice of ingredients when you are buying your products?” I want to create a place where people can learn, exchange and find some answers. We’re recording several episodes before we launch and are currently looking for guests who want to be on the show. If you are interested, please get in touch with me, and let’s chat!

What drives you?

O: I try to think, how can I be of service to people?  That’s my mission.  It’s a lot of work, and I’m trying to be consistent in order to: open minds, set a higher bar, deliver advanced high-performance products that rival the results from conventional beauty products. I want to start a conversation with other brands, rally others, and invite them to take part in the future of green beauty and make it kick ass.

What’s on the horizon for Okoko Cosmétiques?

O: I’m working on developing products that fill a need and bring something innovative to the table. We are launching our limited-edition Trésor, Summer Mist, to hydrate and protect, as a special summer indulgence. There are a lot of beautiful hydrating mists on the market, but I wanted mine to be different and highly functional.  Not only is it hydrating, but it contains lycopene and will also provide UV protection due to a special key active, Venuceane. Venuceane is an active ingredient from algae ferment that provides UV protection as well as protection against infrared rays and is actually heat-activated such that when the sun is hitting you, the protection becomes stronger. So you’ve got a hydrating, antioxidant mist that will also provide protection in the sun. I’m so excited about introducing Trésor, Summer Mist this summer because the UV protection is unique and really answers a need. Please note though, that this product does not replace your sun protection, it complements it beautifully.

Watch out for Okoko Cosmétiques. We are not just about the glow, but we are here to go above that and bring something valuable to the table.

What do you love the most about what you do?

O: One of the things I love the most about what I do is the personal dialogues I have with my customers. Knowing what you like, what you need, and how I can help you with your skincare objectives. Every product is made with love and care, from my hands to yours.

Most of all, I want these products to feel amazing for you, to deliver results and to become part of your daily ritual. There is everything you need to plump, nourish and repair. Prepare to look amazing! Exude radiance.

Thank you, Oyéta for this inspiring interview! Okoko Cosmétiques elevates self-care with the finest formulations.

Be sure to watch this space, because soon we will feature a second, updated interview with
Oyéta about the Okoko Gives Back initiative, The Connector, and what’s next for Okoko!

The post Exclusive Interview with Okoko Cosmétiques Founder Oyéta Kokoroko appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Every now and then, I encounter a formulator so exacting and talented that I would (and will) beg to try anything they create, even sight unseen, simply because I am in awe of their artistry.  Such is the case with Janice Buu, the founder of Kana Skincare and chief formulator of its out-of-this-world Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask.  I was so impressed that I had to interview Ms. Buu, and she graciously agreed.  Now, without further ado, I am thrilled to introduce you to . . .

Janice Buu, the Visionary Founder of Kana Skincare

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Janice Buu (JB):  I was looking for natural hemp products for my father during the recovery of his bypass surgery a few years ago. I researched a lot but did not find many products that I liked in the natural skincare industry. I come from a background of health and sciences, so I quickly became interested in the subject of natural skincare formulations and decided to make my own for those who also believe in plant-based sciences.

How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

JB: Beauty presents itself when we balance our health + nutrition mentally, physically, and spiritually. I am a firm believer in total plant-based philosophy! It is the most natural way to treat, enhance, and boost what our body needs while being environmentally friendly.

Where did you get the idea/inspiration for Kana Skincare?

JB: I am American born-Chinese Korean. My mother was born and raised in Korea, hence the strong Korean culture influence on me. She has always made her own facial “masks” with things she pulls out of the fridge. I watched her by the kitchen counter cutting up cucumber slices, mixing yogurt with honey. She even washed her hair with beer! (This is almost 30 years ago!) We would put the cucumber slices all over our faces, eyes, and eat the extras that were left on the plate while chatting away at night. So as you can tell, I grew up with different views of skincare compared to my peers. My friends’ moms went to the mall and bought the newest products introduced by sales reps. It wasn’t till I was older then I realized why she always stuck by natural skincare and if she couldn’t find them, she would make them – because she had extra sensitive skin.

Combined with my research on hemp a few years ago, I thought it would be perfect to marry the two -Hemp CBD + natural Korean skincare formulations/recipes. At Kana, we test everything on myself first, before employees, before friends and family, etc.

For our first product, I am recreating the fun, bonding experience of face masking for mothers and daughters, hence our first product is the Hemp CBD infused Sleeping Mask, except 30 years later, I made a jar full of 28 active botanicals with all natural skincare formulation + aroma.

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

Tell us a little bit about the magic of CBD as a skincare ingredient.  How did you discover its potential?

JB:  CBD is a magical ingredient that treats eczema, sensitive skin while giving it vitamin A, E, C, and amino acids. It also has strong anti-inflammatory properties, making it great for soothing/relaxing agent.

The first time I tried CBD was when I was testing out a new batch of pearl powder. I mixed some CBD, pearl powder, milk, and raw honey downstairs on my kitchen counter and applied it as a face mask, washed it off after 20 minutes and as always, it felt really good! It wasn’t when I woke up the next day, I found the overnight brightening effect, super smooth skin, and I glowed for days after, even my blemishes were reduced. So I started researching on each ingredient and separating them to test on my skin to see what it was that gave me such magical overnight effect. It was CBD!

Can you describe the process/journey behind creating Kana Skincare Lavender CBD Sleeping Mask, taking it from vision to reality?

 JB:  The sleeping mask R&D alone took about 1.5 years. It probably could have been shortened to a year, but once we got all active botanicals to sync and it worked exactly as we envisioned, then I was very picky on the consistency, texture, color, and aroma. All ingredients must be organic and/or natural, including the production process. If it wasn’t perfect, I wasn’t going to release it. Someone even joked, “Janice is not going to approve it till 2020.” I think I drove the team crazy at one point, hahah.

There was definitely a LOT of trial and error. Ideas, vision, business plans, strategies are always just different parts of the outline. Ideas form better as we practice it more and more.

Can you describe some of the cultural attitudes you have encountered, both here in the US and in Korea, to CBD?  Have these attitudes/misconceptions been hurdles for launching your product in either place and if yes, how so?

JB:  CBD is still a new ingredient in the US. I definitely think we need more education on proper use of CBD and how it may benefit us in health + beauty. It is gaining its popularity quickly on the west coast and moving to the east. CBD is only allowed for research purposes in Korea as of right now.

You have blended CBD with 28 other botanical ingredients to the effect of a hydrating, anti-inflammatory masterpiece.  What things were you going for when you selected the many various ingredients?

JB:  I was going for anti-aging and natural brightening/glowing look, so lots of anti-inflammatory agents, cell regenerating boosts, wrinkle fighters!

Why did you want to create a sleeping mask specifically?

JB:  When we sleep, our body is working hard to repair and heal us from within. So I wanted to take advantage of this and put the body to work along with these active botanicals. I travel and fly around a lot. Our bodies are dehydrated, and we break out. Although sheet masks are fun and helpful at times, it’s definitely not for someone who’s on a tight schedule. Many times, I would accidentally fall asleep with sheet masks left on my face, after a long day of meetings! Only to wake up to my sensitive skin crying for help, seeing the rash, breakouts, patches of my skin would be flakey for days after. Then I thought, if I want to mask, I want to be able to fully relax, I don’t want to wake up in 20 minutes just to take off this mask, then apply the rest of my skincare routine, then go to bed. Why can’t I just sleep with a mask?!

Although I love sheet masks, it’s a fun activity to do with your girlfriends and last minute solutions to that wedding invitation you have in a few hours!

(I see a lot of travelers and even skincare companies advertise sheet masking on the plane. It is a horrible idea, and any reputable aesthetician would be able to tell you, that they will not give you a facial in the dumpster!)

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

Everyone who tries Kana will find themselves falling in love with nature, and all things natural. The aroma of the sleeping mask puts all the beauties to sleep on a field of lavenders. They will wake up feeling refreshed with a natural glow. Aromatherapy is practiced in all of our products so the beauties can achieve mental + physical health/beauty all in one step.

Efficiency. We live in a fast-paced society where we demand results and minimalism. Kana shortens skincare routines, provides proven and efficient results.

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

We have customers returning to purchase more masks for their mothers, friends, and themselves. Great reviews from press & beauty bloggers, editors all over the world. We are about to release our CBD + EGF active botanical essence in 2 weeks! There are people already pre-ordering without even testing essence samples! I am very thankful for the love and trust of people who believe in Kana. I hope countries that have not yet legalized CBD can take a step forward and look into the benefits of CBD and how it may benefit us all, especially patients. Kana will continue to create amazing health + beauty products that enhance the lives of our people.

Do you have more products in mind?  Can you give us any hints of what is to come?

JB:  Yes! We have some formulas currently in development and in the final human-testing stage, next release is EGF + CBD infused active botanical essence (28 active botanicals)! This is going to be a super fun addition for the beauties to use in their skincare routine, or to replace their existing serum with.

EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) makes a great partner with CBD because they are both healers. EGF is found in our body since birth, however, it diminishes as we grow older (in our 20’s! don’t want to believe this… but it’s true.). Without EGF, our skin elasticity would be loose! So I thought the two can partner up and help us! EGF can focus on regeneration of the cells, fight wrinkles, while CBD soothes us, packs our skin with vitamins + amino acids, and heals any inflammation!

Now Available!  Just-Released Kana Skincare CBD + EGF Active Botanical Essence

Kana Skincare’s Recently Introduced CBD + EGF Active Botanical Essence

Image courtesy of Kana Skincare

The post Meet the Visionary Formulator and Founder of Kana Skincare appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Having already expressed my own thoughts on Formula Botanica (here and here), I wanted to get some additional perspectives on the training, as well as how others have experienced the community.  I invited the school’s Director, Lorraine Dallmeier, as well as a handful of Formula Botanica students and graduates to share their views on their experiences with the school and its global community.  I appreciate each of their contributions to this article and encourage you to discover the exciting work each is doing.

Formula Botanica’s Director: Fostering Community

Lorraine Dallmeier, Formula Botanica Director. Courtesy of Formula Botanica.

Director Lorraine Dallmeier, recognized HuffPost Organic Beauty contributor, and consistent award-winner of Top 25 Who’s Who in Natural Beauty

We love our community dearly and have met so many talented, inspirational, passionate and fascinating people all over the world. Our community is what sets Formula Botanica apart from all other online courses. Students come to us for our award-winning courses and end up staying for the community. We have invested years of time and effort in growing our community from scratch to a global platform for formulators in green, clean and organic skincare/haircare. Once a year we then host a live conference where we can meet our community members face to face and I have to tell you, this is the absolute highlight of the year for us.

At the start of our 2017 conference in London (which was held 10 days ago), I opened the conference by saying that our community is an enormous source of inspiration, strength, and support and that students should never view each other as competitors but instead as collaborators, friends and even potential new business partners.

We’ve seen students form firm friendships across the world through Formula Botanica. We’ve seen students fly to each other all around the world to meet and study together, thanks to Formula Botanica.  We’ve seen countless students share valuable information, inspire each other and lift each other up. We’ve seen countless students share successes and celebrate together. We’ve even seen students partner together in business after meeting through our community: OK Homelab  is a great example where two Formula Botanica students met in Russia and decided they were stronger together so they went into business together! You can read their story here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BRkJo5NgEve and https://www.instagram.com/p/BP8BmlsAhEg (You’ll need Google Translate.)

We have built our community through many, many hours of engagement while encouraging students to share their stories,  share their successes and use our community to help support them when they need it. Our overriding objective is to provide a safe, friendly space where we can educate, innovate and formulate.

Formula Botanica Students and Graduates Review the School

The community comes together at the Formula Botanica Conference Workshop, 2016. Photo Courtesy of Formula Botanica.

Rachel Devine, founder of R Devine Organic Skin Care, winner of 18 Hamilton Reader’s Choice Awards, 3 National Awards, a 2016 Forty Under Forty Award, as well as Alumni of Distinction Award from Mohawk College in the Entrepreneur Category

I had been playing around with some formulations on my own before taking this course, but I wasn’t confident in them.  I had done a lot of research, and my formulations were fairly good. However, once I took the course, my formulations went from being ok to professional quality.  I learned so much more about specific ingredients, mixing products together, as well as laboratory set up and preservation that I had no learned on my own through research.  My skincare line wouldn’t be what it is today without this course!

I also really enjoyed the online structure.  I am located in Canada, owned an aesthetics business at the time that I took my course, and also have two young children.  Attending a school would not have been an easy option for me.  Taking the course online made taking this course possible.  The information in the course was really easy to follow, and the school’s customer service was amazing whenever I needed support.

I also really loved connecting with other skin care formulators, networking with them, and all learning from each other’s experiences and experiments.  I still remain in contact with a few of them today, as well all grow our lines parallel to one another.

Discover R Devine Organic Skin Care here.

R Devine Sacred Earth Botanical Cleansing Clay–recently honored as one of the best holistic products of 2017 by Holistic Beauty Magazine. Photo Courtesy of R Devine Organic Skin Care.

 Ashleigh Tatum, founder of Laurence Vale Organics, an Australian line of highly-effective handmade natural skincare

I instantly found Formula Botanica to be a very encouraging and supportive environment.  I absolutely love reading through all the posts in the online forum [the Facebook group exclusively for Formula Botanica students, graduates, and staff]; it’s encouraging to see other people that have similar struggles to myself succeed and overcome the issues they were facing.  I’m a member of a few other online groups, and in other groups, there is always the occasional nasty comment or people don’t want to share too much, as it seems they don’t want people to succeed and outdo them.  This is not an issue in our [the Formula Botanica] community; everyone is helpful, supportive, honest, and encouraging.

I also find it very comforting seeing Lorraine and all the other staff comment so frequently on posts; it makes me feel like they really do care about their students and their success.  I founded my business Laurence Vale Organics on a simple mantra learned through Formula Botanica: ‘keep it simple.’  I make a small range of skincare that truly focuses on helping treat common skin concerns like dehydration, excess oil, pigmentation, flakiness, chronic dryness, and sensitivity.  Through studying with Formula Botanica, I’ve been able to learn that for a product to be beneficial, it doesn’t necessarily have to be jam-packed with ingredients.  I use a wide range of natural ingredients, but I only put in what needs to be there.  Although I’m due to launch in November, I’ve already had a huge response from my local community, and it’s all been positive.  I owe it all to Formula Botanica.

Discover Laurence Vale Organics here.

Laurence Vale Organics Pink Clay & Honey Nutrient Rich Masque

Sara Runser, founder and formulator of Lily De Mai, an exquisite line of high-performance skincare–designed specifically for sensitive skin–that harnesses the purity of nature and the power of science

My favorite thing about Formula Botanica is Lorraine Dallmeier and Dr. Elham Eghbali’s commitment to science and evidence-based formulating.  There is so much misinformation in the beauty industry, particularly the green beauty community.  I’m so grateful as a skincare entrepreneur that they have educated so many makers, consumers and industry people about the chemistry and science behind green skincare.

In terms of how Formula Botanica has elevated my business, I took an Ideal Customer Master Class with Lorraine and Elena Herdieckeroff.  It was the most valuable marketing class I’ve ever taken. It helped me envision and speak to my ideal customer from every angle.  Knowing who my ideal customer is and how to talk to her has been invaluable.

Discover Lily De Mai here.

The Lily De Mai Facial Collection. Photo courtesy of Lily De Mai.

Jale Demirichi Cinisli founder of Jalue, an international skincare brand based in Turkey that blends ice and the finest herbs–for innovative cryotherapy—and Ms. Demirchi Cinisli was also recognized by Natural Beauty News Who’s Who Top 25 Personalities of 2017

I have an educational background in Management and Marketing – and apart from having a huge interest in skincare, I didn’t really have what it takes to make a skincare brand. Blogs and books will only take you to a certain point. I discovered Formula Botanica and decided that it would be an unmissable opportunity to build my knowledge. What was great with Formula Botanica is that it was never boring. There weren’t pages of theory to learn and memorize. It was practical, you learned stuff, you created stuff and then you got tested on your knowledge! Before Formula Botanica I used to make a lot of creams on my own – and it was so difficult. For example, every time I used Coconut Oil or Shea Butter as my main ingredients the consistency of the cream was really hard and it used to freeze – and I had no idea why. My Formula Botanica degree taught me the reasons why, and the solutions to the most common problems like those.

Formula Botanica supports its students and graduates – it is more than just an education platform. I suppose it is more like a community. There are hundreds of people like you-you learn from one another, and you encourage one another. Lorraine herself was very supportive – she helped promote Jalue and did an excellent job with it. It is of course always great when you get an email from management team telling you how much they love your products and brand. Encouragement is one of the most important things for any startup, and Lorraine and her team have done an excellent job with it!

Discover the unique and innovative offering of Jalue here.

Jalue Ice Therapy complete with herbal sachets and reusable silicone ice cone applicator. Photo courtesy of Jalue.

Chaya Caroline Guitton, current Formula Botanica student and author of the enlightening blog Dandelions & Daisies

What’s so great about the Formula Botanica online school is that you are never alone in your journey!  Besides the high quality of the course information and its structure, it is more than your average online course.  The director of the school and the wonderful staff and tutors are always there for you to answer any technical questions and to offer support and encouragement.  The online classroom Facebook group offers a goldmine of information and emotional support as well when we have our doubts or when we simply want to share our accomplishments.  The webinars they offer and the scientific research library available to students are priceless. It is a fantastic, caring community where we all connect, as we have pretty much the same ethics and dreams of learning to make natural skincare and eventually sharing this knowledge with the world after months of hard work.  I am hoping to start my own line of botanical skincare here in Bordeaux, and to give some workshops and personal guidance to creates specific formulas for individuals with particular skincare needs.  Formula Botanica is there to promote you if you would like, with all their many contacts and heavy use of social media they are more than happy to show their followers the progress and success of their students, like proud parents!  It is so cool to know that even when you are finished with the course, they will still be right behind you.  My new blog, which I never would have had the idea of starting if it wasn’t for the business and marketing advice also included in the course, is a perfect example of how the school is there to show you the way, not only in formulating, but in how to market yourself as well.

You can follow Chaya’s formulation journey on Instagram, Facebook, or her blog.

Cosmetique Natural Bordeaux Cherry Pink Body Body Butter, created by Chaya Caroline Guitton.  Photo courtesy of Ms. Guitton.

 CJ Fisher, Formula Botanica student and noted Beauty Blogger

Every time I look at the Formula Botanica Facebook group, I always see a plethora of questions.  The thing that sets this community part happens in the comments.  It’s so nice to scroll through the comments to see so many people eagerly adding useful bits of information or providing an alternative perspective.  From what I’ve noticed, almost every question that is asked or every problem that arises is quickly solved with the help of many rather than a single individual!

You can see CJ’s Beauty Blog here.  I highly recommend his Anti-Haul videos like this one.

Beauty Blogger CJ Fisher

Additional Formula Botanica Reviews

If you have read until the end and still want to know more, several Formula Botanica graduates have written about their experiences with the school on the blogs of their respective businesses.  Here is a handful of them.

• Formula Botanica Review by Liz Ayling of Alchemy du Corps
• Formula Botanica Review by Heather Urquhart of Huna Apothecary
• Formula Botanica Review by Timi Racz of Natural Skincare Workshops
• Formula Botanica Review by Rumbi Serima-Fowler of Mimi’s Organics
• Formula Botanica Review By Teresa Foo of Balm Kitchen

You can also read over 260 verified reviews of Formula Botanica on Trust Pilot, where it’s worth noting that 94% are 5-star reviews, and 4-star reviews account for the remaining 6%.  Finally, you can also read in-depth interviews with many Formula Botanica graduates from all over the world by visiting the school’s blog here.

Want to see for yourself?

You can Sample a Formula Botanica Class for Free!  Start your formulation journey today, no commitment required.

Courtesy of Formula Botanica

The post Formula Botanica Students and Graduates Tell All appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Lorraine Dallmeier, Director of Formula Botanica. Photo courtesy of Formula Botanica.

Lorraine Dallmeier Interview

When I became interested in the issue of preservation in cosmetics, I reached out to Formula Botanica Director Lorraine Dallmeier, asking if we could do a brief interview on the topic.  Despite her busy schedule, Ms. Dallmeier agreed without hesitation and quickly made time for it.  Ms. Dallmeier has a clear position on preservatives in water-based cosmetics, and she utilized our interview as an opportunity to educate on the issue, as you will see below.  Ms. Dallmeier’s position on this sometimes-sticky issue is refreshingly straightforward and sensible, and I find it representative of the safety-conscious stance taken and taught by Formula Botanica; one of the many things I appreciated about Formula Botanica is that the materials for the Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation are very direct and clear when it comes to handling issues related to consumer safety.

Without further ado, the Lorraine Dallmeier interview all about preservatives.

Beauty Librarian (BL): Formula Botanica’s mantra is that the risk of using preservatives is significantly lower than that of using unpreserved water-based cosmetics. Can you briefly explain why?

Lorraine Dallmeier:  Unpreserved cosmetics can carry pathogenic microorganisms such as bacteria or mold which can seriously harm us. There have been numerous documented cases of people becoming ill, developing nasty infections or even dying from having used unpreserved skincare and haircare products. Furthermore, preservatives are used in such low dosages; often only around 1% of your lotion, cleanser or toner will consist of a preservative. In our opinion, the risk is too great to avoid preservatives in skincare. There are plenty of naturally derived preservatives that keep your formulation safe while not posing any risk to the customer.

BL: Can you correct any common misconceptions about preservatives or natural preservatives?

Lorraine Dallmeier: There is a general mistrust of preservatives, as there are many online articles that suggest they are all toxic and will cause harm. Preservatives do need to be able to kill microorganisms, but the preservatives used on the market have to be safe for the customer. We only focus on naturally derived preservatives in our courses at Formula Botanica which means that the preservatives we use in our courses can be derived from natural sources.

We often find that when students first come to us, they are wary of preservatives, but as they work through their courses, they start to take pride in formulating safely preserved skincare and haircare products. Formula Botanica encourages its students to be proud of preservation because we work with so many precious botanical ingredients that are susceptible to contamination that we want to make sure we protect both the formulation and the customer.

Lorraine Dallmeier. Courtesy of Formula Botanica.

BL: From your vantage point, what protection does obtaining training in appropriate preservation–like that Formula Botanica offers through the Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation and the Certificate in Natural Cosmetic Preservation–offer formulators/brand owners?  What value/benefits/protection might this (e.g., solid training in and understanding of cosmetic preservation) offer other invested parties such as aestheticians and beauty bloggers?

Lorraine Dallmeier: By working with a safe preservative in the correct quantities and application methods, a green beauty brand will show professionalism, understanding and great customer care. Once you have learned how to formulate with basic preservatives, we encourage our formulation students to move on to our more advanced courses such as our Certificate in Natural Cosmetic Preservation where you’ll learn how to choose the right preservative for your skincare or haircare formulation.

Formula Botanica will help you analyze your skincare formulation, review which natural preservatives might be most suitable, compare and contrast these natural preservatives and then finally prepare a briefing sheet for your supplier so that you can work with them to find the right ingredient for your exact requirements. We know many formulators just want us to tell them which preservative to choose, but this process takes time, effort and a lot of testing. Our course will hold your hand throughout that process and give you all the checklists and guidelines you need to succeed.

Logo Courtesy of Formula Botanica

Want to know more?

Read my post about what I learned about preservatives from Formula Botanica.

Read my post on what I see as Formula Botanica’s greatest asset.

Read my post on what other students & graduates have to say about Formula Botanica.

The post Lorraine Dallmeier Interview: Preservatives in Organic Cosmetics appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

I am delighted, humbled, and incredibly honored to be able to share my May Lindstrom interview!  Known as the skin chef, May Lindstrom has been creating her fresh, natural, and decadent skincare delights since 2011, though her informal experimentation as a formulator began as a young girl in the outdoors.  She is a beauty alchemist who uses pure, potent ingredients to create skin treats that offer both high-performance results and an incredible experience for the senses.

May Lindstrom is a true green beauty pioneer who has and continues to elevate the industry in terms of purity and luxury, to inspire countless individuals to examine their choices, and to set the bar for skincare rituals as self-care.  Anyone who thinks that natural skincare means giving up a degree of indulgence and pleasure has not tried May Lindstrom Skin.  Her skin treats are addictive, and they have a cult-like following for a reason!  May Lindstrom’s treasures restore natural balance to the skin and offer a decadent, sensual experience that invites the user to slow down, to notice, and to take self-care to new levels of tenderness and self-compassion.  Her line is truly one of a kind.  Moreover, May Lindstrom herself is a person who embodies the term “natural beauty,” inside and out.  Her graciousness is remarkable.  In fact, I can hardly think of May without “She Walks in Beauty” by Lord Byron popping into my head.  See for yourself.

Without further ado, the May Lindstrom interview!

Photography Courtesy of May Lindstrom Skin, www.maylindstrom.com

May Lindstrom Interview:

A Candid Conversation on Sensitivity & Healing with Green Beauty’s Most Beloved Pioneer + Alchemist

The Beauty Librarian (BL): I read an interview in which you said, “My skin was a battleground from birth.”  This is very humanizing to hear, especially in light of your renowned physical beauty and successful modeling career.  How have skin challenges helped shape your approach to beauty?

May Lindstrom: It’s important to remember that we usually only see the highlight reel of people’s lives. In this time of highly filtered, sparkly social media accounts, it can be easy to lose perspective or forget that we are all human. While my skin has finally found its balance at thirty-four, it took me a lifetime to get here.

I have the kind of complexion that is so sensitive and reactive, that one application of the wrong product will leave me covered in blisters and rashes or a terrible breakout. My skin physically hurts when I do not treat it well. And the emotional toll of self-consciousness and shame that rears up far too easily – that’s no joke either.

Finding my voice and the strength to stand up and use it was quite the feat. I’m an introvert and a pleaser and that has a cost. Not having a voice to say No to the products used on me as a model was one of the big reasons I ultimately happily closed that career door. At the end of the day, I believe in making choices that resonate to my very core – and that certainly includes supporting the health and integrity of my skin and my whole self.

Photography Courtesy of May Lindstrom Skin, www.maylindstrom.com

BL:  What are the most important lessons you learned – as a formulator and human being– due to or through your experience with sensitive, reactive skin?

May Lindstrom: I believe in simplicity and know that this is what works for me on pretty much every level. While I have given an incredible amount of attention to designing products for this collection that create a feeling of decadence and celebration, my very core is as basic and grounded as it gets. Beauty truly does come from within and I know that without a healthy body and spirit, our skin suffers.

I also learned pretty early on that using even the simplest of common products (even basic soap or lotion) just wasn’t an option for my own personal body. In order to not have constant pain in my skin, I had to learn an entirely new language of care. Ultimately, this is what led to my becoming a formulator.

I believe our skin has the ability to heal itself if we let it. Sometimes our role is to get out of the way! It is our responsibility to provide abundant nutrition and hydration and to be gentle in our care. By limiting our exposure to harsh chemicals and extreme treatments, we open up to gentler methods. I build each of my products on the same philosophy and ingredients that have been treasured and shared by women all over the world since the beginning of time. I trust in earth’s bounty and the wisdom of those who came before me.

Photography Courtesy of May Lindstrom Skin, www.maylindstrom.com

BL: Which of your delicious products — in addition to heavenly Blue Cocoon– are particularly helpful for redness and inflammation and how so?   

May Lindstrom: The entire collection is formulated to work in synergy to restore balance, ultimately reviving the skin’s integrity and natural rhythm. This leads to lessened redness and inflammation no matter where your starting point was.

The Blue Cocoon is the obvious hero to address inflammatory conditions specifically, but since you prompted, I’ll share details on one more.

The Honey Mud is incredibly gentle and nourishing and helps bring relief to stressed skin. It is formulated to be true skin food.  On days you are using The Honey Mud as a cleanser, massage a plump pea-sized dollop into wet skin to emulsify into a gorgeous and silky cleansing milk. Rinse thoroughly, while massaging with the pads of your fingertips. Your skin will feel plump, hydrated and thoroughly fed.  As a deeply beneficial alternative, The Honey Mud makes the most nourishing raw enzyme treatment masque. Smooth thickly over clean and dry skin to give it a warm hug. The Honey Mud will maintain its pudding-like texture, rather than turning to a milky emulsion with the addition of water. Allow to penetrate and feed your skin for 10-60 minutes, as desired.  In periods of heightened dehydration or sensitivity, wear The Honey Mud into the shower to protect the delicate natural oils of your skin from evaporation in the heat and water, rinsing as your last step.

While I’m here, you should know about The Jasmine Garden as well – this is our gorgeously ethereal botanical mist. This formula adds just a touch of light moisture, and also provides refreshing cleansing action throughout the day with the powerfully soothing combination of witch hazel and colloidal silver. This is particularly wonderful to bring calm and relief to acne and irritation prone skin, as well as to work as a penetration enhancer for The Youth Dew and The Blue Cocoon. The Jasmine Garden infuses skin with antioxidant protection, restoring elasticity and freeing delicate complexions of redness and inflammation.

The romantic aromatic experience of The Jasmine Garden is truly a dream. Soft, sweet, fresh – like a garden of lush flowers in the tropics, somewhere near a field of cocoa beans drenched in rain. This is beautiful after cleansing and before oils, again after oils, to set makeup, and to spritz throughout the day to refresh, cool, calm and heal. I even love to mist lightly on my pillow before sleep, grounding me for perfect rest.

Photography Courtesy of May Lindstrom Skin, www.maylindstrom.com

BL:  How would you advise someone who is in a bout of self-criticism over “skin issues” to get in touch with and celebrate her/his individual beauty?

May Lindstrom:  With my collection, I make a very conscious effort to always draw attention to how amazing we already are, and how deserving we are of self-love and truly beautiful care that feeds both our skin and soul. I cringe at mainstream marketing and the stories it tells us, and mourn for the women who hear and believe these falsities about themselves.

You are not broken. You are whole, heard, and treasured. And you deserve care and touch, your own primarily.

We’ve been taught that self-care Is self-ish, and that is one of the most unfortunate messages we could be proliferating. I want every woman to know that she matters, that this time is hers, and that love that starts from the romance within and ripples out into the world, offering transformation far beyond ourselves.

My brand is an invitation for you to create the time and space for the personal connection you deserve with yourself. This action alone will transform you. What I want to is to get this message out there, to start a shift in how we care for ourselves, starting with the most basic and intimate of rituals  – how we cleanse.

Photography Courtesy of May Lindstrom Skin, www.maylindstrom.com

BL:  You have two adorable children and a lovely family. How has your conception of beauty been informed by motherhood?  How has motherhood informed your work as a beauty alchemist?

May Lindstrom:  The birth of my children reaffirmed a lot of my core beliefs, philosophies and dreams – alongside my enhanced desire to bring ritual and connection to our skin back to the lives of women (and equally deserving men!). It also resurged my hope for a cleaner, happier planet for us all to live on together. This has always been a concern for me, but bringing new life onto this Earth shines a very acute personal spotlight on the urgency of this matter. I will always operate both my business and my personal life in a way that honors and celebrates our earth mama.

Photography Courtesy of May Lindstrom Skin, www.maylindstrom.com

The post May Lindstrom Interview Spectacular! appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

 I had the delight and privilege of interviewing Dominique Harris, maker of the exquisite, family-run, holistic skin care line The Bohemian Collection (please see my Bohemian Collection review here to find out about a few of their most tempting skin treats) as well as the well-loved natural hair-care line Natty Naturals.  Throughout our interview and in subsequent correspondence, Ms. Harris blew me away with her in-depth knowledge of–and her deep passion for–natural ingredients and green living.  She views skin care as a holistic extension of self-care, and one that ideally encompasses body, mind, and spirit. Together, Ms. Harris and her husband Syeed handcraft every small batch of their artisanal hair- and skin-care lines with mindful, positive energy, and they have turned down lucrative wholesale opportunities–such as a mass retail opportunity with Target–in order to stay true to their core vision and mission.  As Dominique has said, “Being mindful of what we eat, what we drink, what we value, all play a part in how we live. We are more than a handcrafted apothecary and green beauty brand, we are a community..we are a vision..we are a lifestyle.”  Without further ado, I present The Bohemian Collection Interview, a conversation maker and green beauty pioneer Dominique Harris.

Dominique and Syeed Harris of The Bohemian Collective and Natty Naturals

Positivity is infused into everything you make.  Have you always been this inspired and positive?  What do you do as a family and/or individually to sustain this incredible outlook and attitude?

As much as I would love to think so, positivity was not always at the forefront. There was a time when I was a bit narcissistic so that in itself can be a very negative selfish character flaw. With time, a desire to grow in maturity and wisdom and with being a wife and mom, I had to learn to let go of self-centeredness and embrace working as a team for a healthy family unit. Positivity is a daily work in progress, and with each day that we learn and grow, we embrace how to make mistakes, dust them off and hopefully learn from them.

Oh gosh, as I mentioned, it’s a daily workout, lol. Working the mind to focus more on positive living, or rather embracing the understanding that problems will occur, it’s how we handle those problems that aid in our growth as a whole healthy person. My husband was extremely and is extremely helpful in assisting in growth…we hold each other accountable, and that’s extremely important to keep the ego in check. Our children also help. We know, as parents, we have a responsibility of accountability. They learn by our actions, so we are always reminded of our accountability. When we make mistakes, we talk very openly and honestly with our children. We teach them, particularly the older 2 (11 and 8 years old) about energy..about accepting responsibility for actions and learning and growing from mistakes.

How did you initially come up with the concoction that started it all and healed your son’s painful scalp infection?

In terms of the Kerion that my son had, I was getting the run around from the ole docs, so as a last resort, I began researching…not only was it through my research that I learned that he had kerion ( the doctors kept saying it was a ringworm fungus, however, kerion is when the body has a type of allergic reaction to a fungus that causes it), I began researching natural remedies and studying natural ingredients and this is what sparked my love of all things herbal, homeopathic, natural and holistic.

The Bohemian Collection Fields of Glory Herbal Steam

How did you transition from making natural products for your family to starting a business?

Right after I had my 3^rd child, I was homeschooling my two older sons as well as a cousin who was the same age as my oldest while my husband was in restaurant management, so with homeschooling, my love of natural ingredients began to grow even more and that love sparked a desire to begin making products for my family that I was not seeing in the stores. My outside family members and my husband’s coworkers were falling in love with our first product, Natty Butter (now known as Hair + Body Butter) and since I was home already, I began to research more and more about ingredients, educating others with via Facebook on the benefits of natural ingredients and herbal living, reading herbal books, books on essential oils and their safety, etc. and from there, I began the process of beginning our business, All Things O’Natural.

 Can you tell us about Natty Butter and what makes it special?

Natty Butter, oh man, it’s the creamiest triple whipped butter ever! My husband actually artisanally handcrafts our butter now and he has truly perfected how to make it like a whipped cream..so fluffy and light. It contains organic cold pressed oils, shea butter and a blend of essential oils. It is literally, hands down, our most sold product, ever! It melts instantly upon contact and aids in locking moisture into the hair and skin while smoothing the skin and softening the hair.

How would you describe your beauty and skin care philosophies?

To me, beauty is a spiritual blessing. It’s of the surface and beyond the surface at the same time. It’s our soul and our spirit..body and mind. My belief is that is should be an enjoyable sacred practice of self-care. The world, many times, has reduced it to physical, but it is also mental and spiritual. When I indulge in a regimen, I give thanks for the ingredients, for the hands that harvested and for the hands that created the products. This is what I strive so hard to help others understand…beauty is self-care..self-care is holistic…it’s a team of greatness that includes the mind, body, and spirit. I take self-care very serious because I have to work so hard to slow down and embrace the beauty of slow living..so I have to be mindful and aware and present. Skincare is holistic in itself..it’s listening to the body and the mind because they both affect our exterior, which is our largest organ, the skin. Our skin tells us what’s going on inside of our physical bodies as well as if our emotional and spiritual energy is unbalanced. Our bodies are so amazing, if only we listen to it.

The lovely Dominique Harris of the Bohemian Collection

Education is a big component of your mission.  When it comes to sharing your knowledge, what topics are you most passionate about, and what do you most want people to know?

You are so correct–education is so important. It is a freedom that is one of the most beautiful powerhouses. I get so passionate when I can learn, talk and educate on homeopathy and holistic living. I can talk about it for hours ( I have talked my husband to sleep, lol…literally). I’m also passionate about self-care because, as I stated earlier, it is part of holistic living..and many times, in today’s society, especially in Western culture, we are not encouraged to slow down..embrace the now..be present, but the opposite..work, work, work, stress, stress, stress..work harder, not smarter..this type of encouragement is the antagonist to self-care…and unfortunately, it causes many to feel guilty for taking a moment to be present, in the moment.

What are your biggest goals as a formulator/maker/founder?

I think one of my biggest goals is to help many understand the beauty of our natural earth and all of the goodness that is bound upon it. To understand how our energy is symbiotic with its energy.

You and your husband are business partners and advocates of spicy marriage.  How do you keep your marriage strong?

Wow, I could go on and on about how to keep a marriage strong, and honestly, I would be just saying a bunch of words…Meaning, we are learning as we grow. We utilize basic foundational principles: respect, honor, communication, accountability, responsibility, selflessness, etc. My husband has said to me many many times, “The greatest leader is the biggest servant and one of my duties is to be one of the greatest servants to Our Creator and my wife and children.” I try to be mindful of that principle, and that’s such a huge sacrifice. We encourage our supporters to be easy, relax, go out on dates, do the same things you did when courting and keep doors closed…. By that last statement, I mean, don’t allow outside influences (family, friends, coworkers, etc.) to interfere with your marriage bond…don’t put yourself in a situation that could cast doubt within your marriage. Having a marriage vision is one of the Most important tools in a union. We talk loads about this because one of the worst things is to marry someone and realize your visions for marriage and family are not aligned. So for us, it’s the basics.

Dominique and Syeed Harris

What role do your kids and parenting play in your business?

With our business, how we operate daily is based on how it works within our family unit..again, understanding that we are a team. We have turned down opportunities to be in certain stores such as Target because it would have been just too much on our family dynamic and that’s truly not the vision I had for this business. From when we formulate product, which is weekly, to our ship out days, which is every Tuesday and Thursday mostly, lately it’s been daily, down to taking Fridays completely off from work; it all depended upon how it operates within our particular family dynamic.

What are your favorite ingredients to work with, and why?

I absolutely LOVE working with herbs and essential oils. I love how concentrated essential oils can be and how amazing they work with our physical makeup. I love their molecular makeup, their aroma, their potency, their volatility, their ability to aid in healing, cleansing, clearing, uplifting and so much more. I absolutely love them. Herbs are so amazing because I can infuse them, extract them, make poultices, create decoctions, cook with them, burn them and so much more.

What is your process for creating a new product?

My process for creating a new product is big time, big time research and development. That takes a lot of time, money and experimentation. It’s best to understand what ingredients work together and which can be dangerous or toxic if combined. Understand ratios of ingredients, how they hold up in certain temperatures and environmental conditions. How they work on varying skin conditions, how safe they are for children, how long they preserve for, how quick or long before turning rancid, the type of container that each product will be housed in, how much each ingredient costs, if ingredients are similar and which works better for what purpose. There’s so so much that goes into formulating a new product, which is why it usually takes me about 8 months to a year, sometimes 2 or 3 years to introduce a new product.

The Bohemian Collection Rosehip Facial Serum

Are you self-taught?  Either way, how did you begin and what have you learned along the way?

I am semi self-taught, but learned quite a bit from my grandmother who was huge into skin care..she has flawless skin, and she’s 84 years old. My great-grandmother used to forage, so I would say my love for all things natural was inspired by those beauties. I love to research. I’m a huge ‘why’ person… I question almost everything. If something works great together, I usually want to understand why… if it doesn’t, why…. Why some ingredients preserve longer and some do not..how some ingredients need no preservation at all, etc. A ton of ‘why’ goes into much of my crafting a product… I ask, ‘Does it make sense?’…is it simply something that I’m creating just to introduce a new product, or does it truly make sense….does it align with our current products and why or why not…so much thought.

 What is your approach to preservation?

My approach to preservation is simple..if there is a water-based substance in the mix, preserve it. There are both synthetic as well as natural occurring preservatives. If the product does not contain water, aloe, hydrosols or the like, such as dry masks, preservatives are a bit less needed. There’s so much misconception about preservation and what are true preservatives. Liquids should use a preservative…. Oils should use an antioxidant…. Clays can last awhile; however, a crafter should be mindful of the type of container they will use and ask the questions, ‘Will the customer apply this with wet hands?’ ‘Will the customer pour or scoop?’ etc…all of this thought should go into creating a product.

The Bohemian Collection Rajati Enzyme Mask

What did it mean to you to be widely recognized for your lines’ achievements [e.g., named as one of 9 Incredible Black Owned Natural Hair Businesses by Black Girl with Long Hair (BGLH), voted a top Instagram account by Essence Magazine Online, and featured in Parent’s Magazine in April 2016]? 

I was truly, truly honored to be featured on BGLH (Black Girl With Long Hair) as one of the top 9 Black Owned Businesses because when it comes to green beauty, many Black owned brands are not really featured or introduced, leading many to lack the knowledge that we exist. With so many of the larger more prominently featured brands, it’s rare that women of color are featured in their selection of features on their social media page or website, save brands such as Josh Rosebrook, who I had the pleasure of chatting about this very thing via Instagram. I love what he is doing with his brand and how he doesn’t simply speak about diversity inclusion, but actually puts his words into action. I don’t truly see that with many of the green beauty brands. So, I’m always excited to see brands such as Okoko Cosmetiques and Siam Seas, Concept FortySeven, The Balm Co, women of color who are passionate about green beauty. With the lack of featured Black owned brands or brands owned by people of color, it creates a lack of interest in much of the Black community, so we, as women of color, as green beauty brand owners must work twice as hard to ensure that we are letting the public know we exist and are just as passionate, sometimes if not more, and with features such as BGLH, Essence and Parents Magazine, it’s a step in aiding us in that struggle. So, I’m always, always honored to be featured on any blog and surprisingly, we’ve had quite a few write about our products.

How did you decide to expand and create the Bohemian Collection?

The Bohemian Collection is the alter ego of the Natty Naturals collection. Natty Naturals first began as a focus on hair care for the natural hair community, although it is also used by beauties of all ethnicities, hair types, ages and both genders. The Bohemian Collection was a concentrated focus on the whole self, the skin care, bath and body, oral health, etc… It embraces the diversity of ingredients as diverse as our customer base. It’s a part of my energy as a whole.

The Bohemian Collection Kijani Green Goddess Beauty Balm

If you had to pick a favorite product or two of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

Yikes, this is a hard one… I would say some of my faves, and I’ll narrow it down to 3, are: Hair + Scalp Rinse (because it lightly cleanses, aids in removing product buildup, aids in closing the cuticle for smoother shinier hair and aids in preventing buildup on the scalp), Natty Butter Hair + Body Butter (I love everything about it..it’s a multi purpose product that is simply amazing), Cacao Clay Cleanse (I love making it, smelling it, applying it, enjoying it and love how my skin feels afterwards)..if I had a 4^th, it would be either the Kijani Beauty Balm or Rosehip Facial Serum ( I love dry oil cleansing with them and applying them to my damp hair and skin).

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

I truly, truly, truly want people to experience what I experience with our products. I take so much time and thought and put a ton of energy into creating and crafting them, and I want them to experience all of that passion and love. I love, love, love when customers say things such as, ‘I had a headache or stressful day, and when I used your products, it made my head feel so much better or alleviated the stress.’ I want them to feel that symbiotic connection of earth energy and our spirit energy. Using my products make me feel so so happy, and I truly want that for each and every customer…even if they don’t understand why.

What do you see as the greatest success of your line(s) so far and what are your hopes for the future?

Honestly, I’ve already experienced the success. For the past 6 years, my husband and I have not had to work for anyone else outside of our business, we’ve purchased a new home and are sustaining a family of 6 with a business that we started..that, to me, is already a success story. It has taught me so much about myself, how to work as a team and family unit with a business. I’ve made some great connections and met some great people. I’ve learned so so much and am continuing to learn and grow..we have a healthy marriage, healthy and joyful children who get to see their parents operating a business daily…that, to me, is success in itself.

Bohemian Collection Pink Himalayan Salt Bath

The post Sacred Self-Care: Meet Dominique Harris of The Bohemian Collection appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

Apoterra Skincare is a small, holistic apothecary that is dedicated to providing cruelty-free skin care that is sustainable and handcrafted in a transparent way.  Founder Dominique Caron is a certified herbalist and aromatherapist, and she was inspired to start Apoterra Skincare after hopelessly struggling to find natural, affordable skin care that was effective for her sensitive and acne-prone skin. Ms. Caron brings a unique perspective to this underserved skin type, and she shares some of her impressive expertise in a series of informative articles on Naturally Healing Acne on the Apoterra Blog (very much worth reading!). Apoterra Skincare is Leaping Bunny certified cruelty-free, 90% of ingredients are certified organic or sustainably wildcrafted, and all Apoterra Skincare ingredients are rated extremely safe (1 or less) on the EWG Database. Moreover, each Apoterra Skincare product has a hand-stamped batch # that can be used to find the product’s date of production and ingredients’ certification and countries of origin.  Apoterra Skincare is a special line, and I was delighted when Ms. Caron agreed to an interview.

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Curiosity!  I first became interested in botanical medicine, meaning making my own tinctures, syrups, and teas for digestive health, colds, and other minor ailments.  I read as much as I could get my hands on about the subject and ultimately started taking courses about herbalism, aromatherapy, botany, and human biology.  I became a certified aromatherapist after really falling in love with working with essential oils. There is a chemistry aspect to blending with essential oils which I love because it gives you the ability to blend based on scientific data.  But there is also an intuitive part when it comes to creating scents and effective emotion which I also love.   Once I started incorporating my knowledge of aromatherapy, herbalism, and skin care into formulating my own skincare products, that is when I really found my calling!

How would you describe your beauty and skin care philosophies?

I like to think of beauty and skin care as part of our health and self-care practices.  To me, beauty is about more than just what you put on your skin, but also about the health of your mind and body.  I formulate with this idea in mind – I look at skin care in a holistic way and formulate using ingredients that work with the body to bring it back to a healthy balance.  This means considering the reason behind why your skin might be breaking out or dealing with inflammation, and addressing these issues by helping your skin heal itself, versus just dealing with the symptoms.

What are your biggest goals as a formulator/maker?

I love creating products that not only solve someone’s skin care issues (such as acne), but that also help one feel good about themselves by elevating their personal care ritual.  A product that works, but also smells and feels amazing is what I always strive for.  Sometimes it can be difficult when working with natural ingredients, as some ingredients that are great for the skin don’t always look or smell amazing!  Finding a way to achieve both is part of the challenge.

What is your process for creating a new Apoterra Skincare product?

I start with an idea.  Whether it be a specific type of product, an ingredient I want to use, a problem that needs to be solved, or a scent that I love. . . I start from there for inspiration.  Once I have a starting point, I actually spend a good amount of time doing research before ever going into the lab.  I look up research papers on ingredients, the chemical composition of new oils I want to work with, try to find evidence about the effectiveness of certain ingredients, etc.   Based on my concept and research, I create a recipe for the product I want to make and then head to the lab to create it.  I then test it and adjust the recipe over several versions to make the effectiveness, texture, color, scent, and experience are just what I want it to be.

If you had to pick a favorite product or two from your line of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

I really love our Neroli Clarifying Toner.  The aroma is really calming to me, and it works so well for me as far as preventing breakouts and keeping my complexion clear.  It hydrates but also delivers acne-fighting and free radical-fighting ingredients such as green tea, vitamin C, and vitamin B3.  I also really love our Night Regenerative Balm.  This is my go-to whenever my skin needs a little extra repair due to sun exposure, dehydration or cold exposure.  Of all our products, the balm is the one I get the most people reaching out to me telling me it was a “game changer” for them!  I combined a really amazing butter, cupuacu (can hold up to 400% of its weight in water!), with nutrient-dense oils and collagen boosting actives like vitamin C and coQ10 – so this balm is a performer!

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

I want people really to look forward to using my products.  I hope that when they use them, it helps them find a moment of peace in the day that lets them they feel pampered and beautiful.  I also want my products to keep my customer’s skin healthy so that they can experience a natural glow that makes them feel good about themselves!

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

My greatest success for me is all the positive feedback I get from customers.  Every week we get customers writing new reviews on our website, and so many of them are success stories of people being really happy with their results.  These stories are the reason I do what I do!

I’ve read that you have extremely sensitive skin that is dry and breaks out easily.  This describes my skin type as well, and this cluster of challenges is not often addressed simultaneously. What are the most important things you’ve learned about caring for your skin type?

For the longest time, I had dry, flaky skin and breakouts on my chin ALL THE TIME.  It was so frustrating!  Every product I tried seemed to make me break out or become red.  What I have discovered is that there is a lot of misinformation out there about acne and dry skin, and I realized over time that the reason my skin was the way it was, was in fact because of the products I was using.  You often see acne being associated with oily skin.  The truth is that acne can be caused by both oily or dry skin.

Without going too in-depth here – Acne is caused by clogged pores and bad bacteria.  If you have dry skin, your sebaceous glands can try to compensate by overproducing sebum which can clog pores and create an environment that P. Acnes, the acne causing bacteria, will thrive in.  When you have dry skin, you also deal with excessive dead skin cells, which can also clog pores.  For this reason, the traditional advice of vigorous cleansing and using “drying” products on the skin to clear acne don’t work and actually make things worse.  Drying the skin and over cleansing doesn’t keep pores clear, but it does dry the skin and cause barrier damage.  What your skin needs is nourishment, hydration, and gentle exfoliation.  You don’t get acne because you aren’t cleansing enough.  You are getting acne because either you glands are producing too much oil, your pores are clogged because you’re not exfoliating enough, you have skin barrier damage, and/or your skin’s microbiome has been compromised, and the healthy bacteria on your skin is not there to fight off the acne-causing bacteria.  I have a 5-part series on acne on our blog that goes into this more in depth, but the takeaway is:

• don’t over cleanse.  Skip a foaming cleanser in the morning and use a gentle toner or hydrosol blend instead (or an oil cleanser)
• make sure you are properly hydrating the skin with a water-based product
• make sure you are moisturizing with the right oils
• Exfoliate a few times a week. Exfoliation should be gentle and non-abrasive
• Don’t use strong antibacterial topical treatments that can disrupt your microbiome
• Don’t use any products that make your skin feel tight and dry.

Can you explain your understanding the importance of finding a balance with exfoliation and not overdoing it, particularly for individuals with sensitive skin and acne?  In general, what would you advise in terms of the best approach(es) and frequency for exfoliation?

Exfoliation is important to keep pores clear, but over-exfoliation can cause damage to your skin barrier.  To be effective, exfoliation can be very gentle and doesn’t have to be abrasive at all! It shouldn’t leave your skin looking too red or feeling raw.  I would say stay away from abrasive physical exfoliants and stick to gentle chemical exfoliants.  This can be something like what I use in our Hibiscus Exfoliating Mud with is a blend of fruit, sugar, and yogurt which exfoliates with natural sources of fruit acids and lactic acid.

How can an impaired skin barrier worsen inflammation, and what tips do you have for maintaining optimal barrier function without worsening acne?

An impaired skin barrier means that your skin cannot defend itself properly, but is also means it will have difficulty retaining water.  This means that your skin will be dehydrated, but also be more prone to infections such as acne.  Without proper hydration, it makes it more difficult for your skin to protect and repair itself.  Ideally, topically applying plant oils and butters that are effective emollients and provide a breathable occlusive layer, combined with plant extracts and essential oils that have strong anti-inflammatory properties will be effective in helping your skin repair itself.  Sometimes people worry about using plant butters and oils because they have acne, but they shouldn’t!  The key is to use the right kind of oil for acne prone skin that are also effective emollients and help repair the skin.

A note about essential oils – I have been getting a lot of questions about the safety and effectiveness of essential oils.  The importance when using essential oils is that you need to use the proper % – too much can aggravate the skin.  I like to compare EOs to salt.  A little bit on your food is good for you and makes your food taste good, but add too much, and the salt might have a negative effect on your health.  Try to eat a few tablespoons at once, and you might die!  Saying a blanket statement that all essential oils are bad for the skin is like saying that salt is dangerous because it can kill you.  It is not a black and white issue; there is a lot of nuance to the way you use essential oils. When used properly, essential oils can be very beneficial to your skin and health.

Can you tell us about any upcoming launches?

I have some new product launches that I hope to release this fall!  I have been working on new PH balanced and microbiome friendly cleansers and also some new mood enhancing scents for some body care products.

How do barrier function and the acid mantle play into dry skin with breakouts, and how do your products address this?

If your barrier is impaired, or acid mantle is disturbed by products that are too acidic or too alkaline, your skin will have to work to repair and rebalance itself.  Remember – acne is a bacterial infection.  If your skin barrier or acid mantle is impaired, it will be more difficult for your skin to fight off the bad bacteria.  By using products that provide your skin with hydration and moisturization in a way that does not disrupt your acid mantle and promotes a healthy skin barrier, you are helping your skin return to and maintain a healthy balance.  A healthy balance means clear, hydrated skin.    All our facial oils, toners and masks help your skin do exactly that, without disrupting the acid mantle.

How can those of us prone to breakouts use oils intelligently?

The thing about oils is they are not all created equal.  Oils high in oleic acid, like olive oil, can aggravate acne.  Oils rich in linoleic acid, however, are really great for acne-prone skin.  You can incorporate oils into your routine as much as any other skin type, but the key is the use the right oils.  My blue (clarify) line is designed for breakout prone skin with oils that are rich in linoleic acid and nourish the skin in a way that is ideal for acne-prone skin.

The Apoterra blog is amazing, and I highly recommend everyone take a look at it.  I love that the information and advice you share is truly evidence-based (for examples, see the amazing links in the first article of an amazing series on treating acne naturally).  How do you find your citations, and what do you do to stay abreast of the literature?

Thank you!  I really appreciate that.  Honestly, I do a lot of online research.  I find articles that address what I want to learn more about and look through their citations. From there I just keep digging deeper and deeper until I find the evidence-based data I am looking for.  I never take information from a blog or magazine as fact – but instead always search for peer-reviewed articles relating to what I am researching.  There is so much misinformation out there; you really can’t believe a lot of what you read.  For instance, if you google “rosehip vitamin C,” you will find page after page of articles claiming rosehip oil is rich in vitamin C, which just isn’t true!  I wrote a post on my blog about the vitamin C myth regarding rosehip oil.   This is why I go and find peer-reviewed papers, when they are available, as a reliable source of information.  But even those you have to be careful and look at the way the study was conducted before accepting their conclusion as accurate.  When working with natural ingredients, sometimes part of the challenge when formulating is that there just aren’t many studies related to skin care about them.  So what I will do in that instance is look up the chemical composition of said ingredient, and look into research involving those components instead.

Do you have any favorite resources (whether books, online databases, etc.) for enriching understanding of ingredients and/or skin-related topics that you would recommend to an interested audience?

If you are interested in working with essential oils, I highly recommend www.aromahead.com as a source of information.  For an annual fee, you can get access to their component database, which gives you access to research papers organized by each chemical component found in essential oils.  They also offer excellent aromatherapy courses.

This is a great database to find research papers: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

As far as books, here is a list of my favorite books for someone that is looking to start delving into aromatherapy or herbalism.

Medical Herbalism (Hoffman)

The Herbal Medicine-Maker’s Handbook (Green)

The Chemistry of Aromatherapeutic Oil (E. Joy Bowles)

What do you see as the most important things that set Apoterra Skincare apart from other lines on the marketplace?

I am a firm believer that science helps shine a light on what is true, but I am also a firm believer in the knowledge that traditional methods such as herbalism have to offer.   I combine both of these beliefs to offer a unique skincare line that marries the best of both worlds by combining herbal infusions, plant oils, raw botanicals and essential oil, with cutting-edge, naturally-derived technology like liposome encapsulated vitamin C and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.  We offer natural, safe and effective products that approach skin care holistically to bring and maintain balance to the skin.

Our products also offer you an opportunity to connect with yourself and nature by elevating your personal care ritual through natural scents and textures.  I really believe these little moments in our day are essential for our well-being, and through the experience of using them, our products are meant to help you tune into yourself and take care of both your skin and mind.

We also offer guidance and education through our blog, skin care guide, and one-on-one guidance through email (info@apoterraskincare.com).  We believe that knowledge is power, and we want to offer you helpful and eye-opening information so you so that you can be empowered to take the best possible care of your skin.

I also believe in being kind to our planet and in being honest, which is why we strive to be environmentally friendly and transparent in our practices.  We are Leaping Bunny Cruelty Free certified and a Green America Certified Business.  We also hand stamp each of our products with a batch # which can be looked up on our website to find out more about the date of production and ingredient sourcing.

The post Apoterra Skincare’s Dominique Caron Solves Your Trickiest Skin Issues appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.