With the publication of How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels, green beauty visionary Oyéta Kokoroko has written a vital book that will empower consumers, beginning formulators, and retailers to make informed and educated choices about product selection within the beauty sphere.  Trying to assess the quality of a beauty product before you purchase it can be mystifying and intimidating; most of us would benefit from an insider’s guidance. From ingredient lists that read like an organic chemistry textbook to a broad array of marketing claims (e.g., natural, green, clean, non-toxic, free of X, clinically tested, clinical grade, etc.), cosmetics labels make it difficult to determine whether a given product is worthwhile and/or suitable for our particular needs. We struggle to discern what really matters, what claims are exaggerated, and where should we pay the most attention. Enter Oyéta Kokoroko, and her fabulous new eBook How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels. This eBook provides all the guidance and education consumers need to read, understand, and evaluate confusing cosmetics labels. Author Oyéta lets readers in on an important secret about assessing cosmetics–one that she has learned through years of formulating skincare: the quality of a product is directly related to the quality of its ingredients and some ingredients are more important than others. Thus, decoding cosmetics labels is an imperative step in the assessment and selection process. As the book points out, the claims may lie, but the ingredients do not, and knowing where to focus our attention is the first step. 

What makes understanding ingredient labels a bit tricky for most of us is that the cosmetic industry uses its own standard language to list ingredients, called International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), that is anything but intuitive. INCI names are almost like another language. Fortunately, How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels truly walks us through the process of decoding labels, giving us step-by-step instructions and even practice exercises (with answers in the Appendices so you can check your work). Readers will also gain the knowledge necessary to be able to understand the different parts of formulations by categorizing ingredients based on their purpose. Living up to its name, the book teaches how to decode cosmetics labels and provides access to several insider tools and resources (e.g., some brilliant decoding software and more) that will make demystifying labels easy and virtually effortless. With the tools provided here, readers can translate the names of INCI ingredients into plain English in no time at all. How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels makes technical information about ingredients and formulation understandable and accessible even to those of us who do not have a strong background in formulation or cosmetic chemistry.

In this book, Oyéta generously shares her insider knowledge and perspective from years in the industry. What is more, she educates in a truly balanced, non-biased way, showing a level of discretion and evenhandedness that is hard to find in beauty.  How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels is fullydevoted to educating and empowering consumers without even a hint of a hidden agenda. First, Oyéta does not promote or even mention her own line or products in any way.  This sort of restraint is rare in books written by founders! Additionally, although written by a green beauty luminary, the book does not at all malign or vilify mainstream cosmetics.  In fact, the book compares natural and conventional cosmetics in a radically evenhanded way, offering insights about the relative advantages and disadvantages of each. For instance, the book points out that although mainstream cosmetics use more lab-made ingredients, this is not necessarily a negative, as some of these synthetic ingredients are identical to their natural counterparts and may even be more sustainable. The book also presents that while natural formulas are typically more eco-conscious than conventional, they are also likely to degrade faster than their conventional counterparts due to a shorter shelf life. How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels has an entire chapter filled with evenhanded nuggets such as these, and the entire book is written with this sort of integrity. Anyone seeking truth amid all the distortion in the beauty industry will find this book refreshing and informative.

An invaluable reference, How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels will enable readers to see through the wild, unrealistic promises and greenwashing tactics that plague the cosmetics industry to make truly informed choices and selections.  The eBook will also make product selection easier for specific skin types, as it contains a particularly useful Ingredients Directory that lists common active ingredients—in both plain English and INCI– organized by the user’s desired skin goal. Whether the issue is dehydrated skin, dark spots, or something else, the Ingredients Directory will provides a list of special actives tailored to the user’s specific concerns.  These lists will help readers identify solid, targeted formulations that suit their needs.  Although readers will get a lot out of their first pass through this book, How to Decode Your Cosmetics Ingredients is also a wonderful reference to keep on hand to come back to for anyone who wants to better understand the heart of cosmetic products, their ingredients.  In conclusion, Oyéta’s eBook is an important and generous contribution to the beauty canon and an essential read for the beauty consumer seeking honest and transparent information to empower his/her choices.  

The post How to Decode Your Cosmetics Labels by Oyéta Kokoroko: A Review appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

If you’re looking for a book that takes a nutritious and holistic approach to beauty and health, I highly recommend Glow: The Nutritional Approach to Naturally Gorgeous Skin.  Written by Nadia Neumann of @bodyunburdened, Glow is a gorgeous resource filled with amazing pictures and valuable health information PLUS lots of skin-loving (and delicious) meal recipes as well as fun homemade skincare recipes, all using fresh, easily obtained ingredients.

Main sections include: Understanding the Skin, Glowing Skin from Within, Skin-Loving Superfood Recipes, Boost Your Inner Glow, and Natural DIY Skincare Recipes.  Throughout, Glow is full of insightful nuggets presented in creative ways. In Understanding the Skin, Ms. Neumann has one of the best analogies for the three main layers of skin that I have ever encountered: “the epidermis is the very thin, bright orange part of the peel; the dermis is the thicker, whiter part of the peel that’s visible when you cut the orange; and the hypodermis is the pulp of the fruit.”  It’s such a great way to remember!

Along with a great overview of healthy nutrition that covers how both macronutrients and micronutrients relate to healthy skin, Ms. Neumann reminds us that our choices matter and that every meal is a chance to nourish our skin and our health from within. Unlike many books that simply vilify sugar, Glow explains exactly how sugar wreaks havoc on our skin: glycation (when glucose attaches itself to proteins, including elastin and collagen, making them rigid), depletion of micronutrients, inflammation, harming gut flora and health, and contributing to hormone imbalances–all of which are taxing to skin. Fortunately, Glow also features several tips to lessen sugar’s burden: limiting refined and simple carbohydrates, balancing carbohydrates with protein and fat to offset the sugars, and using natural sweeteners rather than processed sweeteners.

Glow also tackles two issues that I believe are key in the intersection of health and beauty: gut health and chronic inflammation.   Inflammation in the gut can manifest in the skin, and intestinal permeability can also greatly contribute to inflammatory skin troubles. Glow offers some really sensible advice about how to improve digestion–from reminding us that chewing thoroughly is an important step of the process in which enzymes are released to pointing out that drinking lots of liquid with a meal dilutes gastric juices.  She also recommends eating probiotic-rich foods for the sake of the microbiome and suggests foods (like gelatin and bone broth) that are healing for the gut lining.  Reminding us why all this is important, Ms. Neumann points out, “Remember all the glow-getting nutrients your skin is craving?  Well, they’re worth diddly squat if digestion is impaired—if you’re not properly breaking down those nutrients, your body simply can’t make use of them.” In terms of inflammation, Glow describes the very different implications of acute and chronic (systemic) inflammation and gives great tips on taming systemic inflammation: by adjusting omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acid intake (increasing omega-3), being mindful to avoid pro-inflammatory foods (like sugar, gluten, and overcooked foods), adding anti-inflammatory superstars to the diet (turmeric, ginger, pineapple), as well as neutralizing free radicals with antioxidant-rich foods (like watercress, blueberries, and green tea).These are just some of the helpful highlights in a very comprehensive guide.

Glow offers a wealth of healthy beauty advice, which is really the best kind, as well as fantastic superfood recipes and DIY skincare recipes (below, see one of my favorites, excerpted with permission).  Ms. Neumann promotes beauty and health simultaneously, with an understanding that our skin complaints reflect of our internal imbalances.  Rather than scolding poor choices, Glow offers explanations of why things are healthy or unhealthy, along with action steps to get on a better path. This is a jam-packed resource that has the potential to inspire and greatly improve both health and beauty for its readers.  Highly recommended.

Chamomile Rose Cleansing Grains

These cleansing grains are a one-stop shop for all of your skin needs. They wash away impurities without the use of potentially irritating soap while providing a buff gentle enough to be had daily.

This particular recipe contains goodies that benefit all skin types. Oats may have a reputation for being boring but are actually quite the opposite—not only do they calm irritated skin, but they also contain natural saponins that absorb excess oil and cleanse the skin. Rose petals are rich in the antioxidant powerhouse vitamin C and act as a mild astringent, keeping pores clear and tight. Chamomile soothes irritated, inflamed skin. Last but certainly not least, French green clay absorbs dirt and excess oil while providing skin with a healthy dose of minerals.

YIELD: 4 OZ (115 G)

4 tbsp (22 g) oats

2 tbsp (4 g) loosely packed rose petals

2 tbsp (4 g) loosely packed chamomile flowers

3 tbsp (27 g) French green clay

In a high-speed blender, food processor or coffee grinder, grind the oats, rose petals and chamomile flowers together into a fine powder. Transfer the finely ground mixture to a jar, add the French green clay and give the mixture a shake to blend the ingredients.

To use, mix about 1 teaspoon (5 g) of cleansing grains with a small amount of water in the palm of your hand to form a thick paste. Rub the grains into your face using gentle, circular motions. Rinse and bask in the beauty of your skin!

NOTES

To avoid bacteria growth, make sure your hands are clean and dry before scooping the grains from the jar and to securely close the jar after you are finished.

Since these grains do very mildly exfoliate the skin, use them no more than once a day.

Cleansing grains are not fantastic at removing makeup, so be sure to remove makeup (a little bit of oil does the trick) before using.

The post Review of Glow: The Nutritional Approach to Naturally Gorgeous Skin appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.

I have the exciting opportunity to try AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum (review coming soon), and much to my delight and excitement, I also received a personally autographed copy of Dr. Al-Qahtani’s fabulous new book Real World Skin Solutions.  Despite being a CEO of one of the world’s most elite skin care companies (and AQ Skin Solutions really is a worldwide phenomenon), it has became clear to me through reading his book that Dr. AQ (as many of those who know him reportedly call him) is an extremely compassionate human being and consumer advocate. Real World Skin Solutions reminds us that, despite our aesthetic dissatisfaction, our skin is a miracle (his word for it). Just to scratch the surface, the book helps readers: separate science from empty marketing, know harmful red-flag ingredients to avoid, see past marketing hype to better evaluate the true benefits and risks products and procedures, better understand skin disorders and concerns and how to treat them.

This is a compassionate yet no-nonsense, science-based book about how to manage your skin and how to smartly navigate the skin care industry.  This is a book that will save you money.  I learned a number of things I wish I had known sooner.

There is a wealth of knowledge contained in Real World Skin Solutions, but I will give you a taste of a few highlights from the chapters on stem cells and growth factors.

• Epidermal growth factors, on the other hand, are worthwhile because they simultaneously stimulate the growth of new cells while repairing damaged ones and benefit all skin types.

• However, in order to achieve desirable results without unintended side effects, you need the right growth factors in the right combinations, something that requires expertise.

• Dr. Al-Qahtani follows up with four rules of thumb to spot “fake factors” and save your money.

The post AQ Skin Solutions and Review of Dr. Al-Qahtani’s new book, Real World Skin Solutions appeared first on The Beauty Librarian.